H1 Revisited

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JacksonKnives
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Re: H1 Revisited

#21

Post by JacksonKnives »

Vivi wrote:
Tue Jul 16, 2019 6:18 pm
SE H1 is a straight up super steel.

The edge retention of my SE Pacific Salts I EDC matches or exceeds every other knife I own, period.

SE H1, for my EDC uses, holds an edge superior to: PE H1, VG10, bd1 and 8Cr13MoV.........AND S30V......AND M4.....D2.......S90V...........AND K390....and so on.
I don't want to get cranky about this, but I feel it's worth noting: comparing SE H1 to PE S90V is like comparing apples and durian. They're not even on the same continent.

A saw blade made from unhardened steel is also amazing in certain applications.

Now, I've seen anecdotes of SE H1 holding an edge longer than SE S30V. I'm not going to dispute that, but I want to point out that the relevant material property that would contribute to that result is dramatically different from the properties that lead to good PE edges.

It's entirely possible that SE H1 will outlast steels like LC200N, but if it's just a matter of toughness, there's no reason a simple stainless shouldn't be able to do the same while only sacrificing corrosion resistance.
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Re: H1 Revisited

#22

Post by cabfrank »

I don't have a LC200N knife yet (I really want one), but I completely love H1. My black blade Pac Salt PE is the sharpest blade I've ever received, and even with very limited sharpening skills, I've had no problem keeping that way, in just minutes on the Sharpmaker. I can get it much sharper, much easier, than any other steel I've had. I believe Spyderco has said SE H1 has the best cutting performance of anything they've tested, and Vivi seems to agree. Great stuff, if you ask me.
I've read that LC200N PE has better edge retention than H1 PE, and Lance/Surfingringo posted a video showing it is very easy to sharpen as well. It looks good to me, and I'm sure I would like it, but I don't think I'd prefer it overall to H1 in PE. In SE, I am almost positive I'd still prefer H1.
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Re: H1 Revisited

#23

Post by vivi »

JacksonKnives wrote:
Tue Jul 16, 2019 7:06 pm
Vivi wrote:
Tue Jul 16, 2019 6:18 pm
SE H1 is a straight up super steel.

The edge retention of my SE Pacific Salts I EDC matches or exceeds every other knife I own, period.

SE H1, for my EDC uses, holds an edge superior to: PE H1, VG10, bd1 and 8Cr13MoV.........AND S30V......AND M4.....D2.......S90V...........AND K390....and so on.
I don't want to get cranky about this, but I feel it's worth noting: comparing SE H1 to PE S90V is like comparing apples and durian. They're not even on the same continent.

A saw blade made from unhardened steel is also amazing in certain applications.

Now, I've seen anecdotes of SE H1 holding an edge longer than SE S30V. I'm not going to dispute that, but I want to point out that the relevant material property that would contribute to that result is dramatically different from the properties that lead to good PE edges.

It's entirely possible that SE H1 will outlast steels like LC200N, but if it's just a matter of toughness, there's no reason a simple stainless shouldn't be able to do the same while only sacrificing corrosion resistance.
Let me ask you this.

Can we agree that PE H1 and PE BD1 and PE 8Cr all have roughly similar edge holding?

Ok, now stay with me.

How many times since you joined this forum have you seen someone type the following:

"SE BD1 holds an edge longer than PE S90V"

"SE 8Cr holds an edge longer than PE S90V"

Let's keep going.

"SE VG10 holds an edge longer than PE S90V"

I've been here since 2007, and lurked here since 2005.

I have never, ever seen this claim made here.

If SE H1 held an edge so well simply because it was serrated, this would apply to other low edge retention steels run in serrated edges.

It does not.

I have used every steel mentioned in this post. I have never seen SE 8Cr hold an edge longer than PE S30V, much less S90V or K390.

So not only do 8Cr SE, BD1 SE, VG10 SE etc NOT hold an edge as well as H1SE....they are not as tough, they can take longer to sharpen, and they are not rust proof.


---------------------------------------


I am consistently amazed at the efforts of posters on Spydercos own forum to attempt to downplay how amazing H1SE is. There is no steel in the production market I've used that offers comparable attributes, but rather than embrace this amazing technology people want to try to explain that it isn't anything special.

Utterly mind boggling. It really makes me want to make a thread where non-believers can sign up to join a passaround of one of my own SE Pacific Salts sharpened to hair whittling sharpness so they can see the teuth for themselves.
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Re: H1 Revisited

#24

Post by Doc Dan »

Vivi wrote:
Tue Jul 16, 2019 8:58 pm
JacksonKnives wrote:
Tue Jul 16, 2019 7:06 pm
Vivi wrote:
Tue Jul 16, 2019 6:18 pm
SE H1 is a straight up super steel.

The edge retention of my SE Pacific Salts I EDC matches or exceeds every other knife I own, period.

SE H1, for my EDC uses, holds an edge superior to: PE H1, VG10, bd1 and 8Cr13MoV.........AND S30V......AND M4.....D2.......S90V...........AND K390....and so on.
I don't want to get cranky about this, but I feel it's worth noting: comparing SE H1 to PE S90V is like comparing apples and durian. They're not even on the same continent.

A saw blade made from unhardened steel is also amazing in certain applications.

Now, I've seen anecdotes of SE H1 holding an edge longer than SE S30V. I'm not going to dispute that, but I want to point out that the relevant material property that would contribute to that result is dramatically different from the properties that lead to good PE edges.

It's entirely possible that SE H1 will outlast steels like LC200N, but if it's just a matter of toughness, there's no reason a simple stainless shouldn't be able to do the same while only sacrificing corrosion resistance.
Let me ask you this.

Can we agree that PE H1 and PE BD1 and PE 8Cr all have roughly similar edge holding?

Ok, now stay with me.

How many times since you joined this forum have you seen someone type the following:

"SE BD1 holds an edge longer than PE S90V"

"SE 8Cr holds an edge longer than PE S90V"

Let's keep going.

"SE VG10 holds an edge longer than PE S90V"

I've been here since 2007, and lurked here since 2005.

I have never, ever seen this claim made here.

If SE H1 held an edge so well simply because it was serrated, this would apply to other low edge retention steels run in serrated edges.

It does not.

I have used every steel mentioned in this post. I have never seen SE 8Cr hold an edge longer than PE S30V, much less S90V or K390.

So not only do 8Cr SE, BD1 SE, VG10 SE etc NOT hold an edge as well as H1SE....they are not as tough, they can take longer to sharpen, and they are not rust proof.


---------------------------------------


I am consistently amazed at the efforts of posters on Spydercos own forum to attempt to downplay how amazing H1SE is. There is no steel in the production market I've used that offers comparable attributes, but rather than embrace this amazing technology people want to try to explain that it isn't anything special.

Utterly mind boggling. It really makes me want to make a thread where non-believers can sign up to join a passaround of one of my own SE Pacific Salts sharpened to hair whittling sharpness so they can see the teuth for themselves.
I think CATRA testing proves all of this and Spyderco has done a lot of it.
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Re: H1 Revisited

#25

Post by Tims »

Vivi wrote:
Tue Jul 16, 2019 6:18 pm
JacksonKnives wrote:
Tue Jul 16, 2019 2:37 pm
Anecdotally, it's a good blade steel.
Anecdotally, "German stainless" is "the best" steel for the kitchen.

Objectively, there are better ways to hold an edge for many tasks.

If the edge retention of the geometry/steel is good enough for your task and you benefit from the unmatched rust resistance of H1, good for you! It's a specialized steel that does very well in the role it's made for.

I have the same feelings about high carbon steel in razors and gold in pen nibs. If the material is doing what you need the way you want it to, great. But don't try to convince me the material is somehow uncompromised and perfect.

Can you steel an edge back on H1 after it rolls? Sure. But let's not pretend that ductility is a magical property. Lots of steels are ductile.
PE H1, sure.

SE H1 is a straight up super steel.

The edge retention of my SE Pacific Salts I EDC matches or exceeds every other knife I own, period.

SE H1, for my EDC uses, holds an edge superior to: PE H1, VG10, bd1 and 8Cr13MoV.........AND S30V......AND M4.....D2.......S90V...........AND K390....and so on.

People that don't use the steel often seem to forget this point. There is absolutely NOTHING that SE H1 does poorly at, besides being FFG in a factory setting. It is a grail steel. The toughness of a carbon tool steel, the edge holding of a carbide loaded high hardness steel, and rust PROOF.
I don’t own any H1 so I can’t rightfully give an opinion but man, I’m skeptical.
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Re: H1 Revisited

#26

Post by tonijedi »

In the last year I've been carrying almost exclusively H1, mostly SE but sometimes my PE Dragonfly.
Honestly I don't care anymore if people believe it or not, after all most don't own any H1 blades at all. H1 serves me well, I'm very happy with it.
My H1 blades are always shaving sharp, contrary to other steels (I'm restoring an edge on my Saber Ground ZDP-189 Delica and it's been a matter of weeks using only the sharpmaker).
Don't believe H1 is good enough for you? No problem, don't use it.
Most knives, specially pocket knives, have inferior edge retention than PE H1. Just imagine the quantity of SAKs, cheap knives etc. that there are and people are happy with them. It's not that PE H1 is extraordinarily good, it isn't, but it is better than most people need. I know it's hard to acknowledge that: you love knives bit your needs aren't up to the blades you have :D
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Re: H1 Revisited

#27

Post by Tims »

tonijedi wrote:
Wed Jul 17, 2019 4:31 am
In the last year I've been carrying almost exclusively H1, mostly SE but sometimes my PE Dragonfly.
Honestly I don't care anymore if people believe it or not, after all most don't own any H1 blades at all. H1 serves me well, I'm very happy with it.
My H1 blades are always shaving sharp, contrary to other steels (I'm restoring an edge on my Saber Ground ZDP-189 Delica and it's been a matter of weeks using only the sharpmaker).
Don't believe H1 is good enough for you? No problem, don't use it.
Most knives, specially pocket knives, have inferior edge retention than PE H1. Just imagine the quantity of SAKs, cheap knives etc. that there are and people are happy with them. It's not that PE H1 is extraordinarily good, it isn't, but it is better than most people need. I know it's hard to acknowledge that: you love knives bit your needs aren't up to the blades you have :D
I don’t tend to get emotionally attached to the performance of knife steels and anecdote alone isn’t quite enough for me on this one. I’d love to see some hrc test data for H1 SE.
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Re: H1 Revisited

#28

Post by hambone56rx »

Vivi wrote:
Tue Jul 16, 2019 6:18 pm
AND K390....and so on.
First time I have heard this! I’ve heard amazing things about SE H-1, but not to this extent! That truly is incredible! Thanks for the insight!

Hamilton
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Re: H1 Revisited

#29

Post by vivi »

Tims wrote:
Wed Jul 17, 2019 2:31 am

I don’t own any H1 so I can’t rightfully give an opinion but man, I’m skeptical.
Then you're skeptical of Spyderco themselves. This is what Spyderco has to say on the subject, along with a few quotes from various posters:

Image

Spydercos own website describing the Jumpmaster 1 & 2. Look for yourself.

Image

Sal Glesser himself backing me up on claims similar to the ones I made in this thread. LINK to the post.

Image

Sal Glesser, writing, and I quote "In the serrated config, it will stay sharper longer than anything we've tested to date."

This quote was posted May 2017. Think about which steels Spyderco offered at the time. Basically the same as they do now. That means none of the steels Spyderco had tested in serrated edge outlasted H1.

Again, I ask everyone doubting me and Sal a simple question: Have you seen similar claims made for other steels known for low edge retention in PE? Can you quote Sal himself saying 8Cr and BD1 is SE outlast any other steel they've tested? No, you can't.

"H1 SE seems to hold better than plain edge s30v for me. Especially after a few touch ups." - Wanimator

"Sal has written that H-1 outperforms all their other steels in SE, with a Rc of ~68 at the edge."

"In micro harndess testing from the spine to the edge, he came up with the following; plain edge at the spine was Rc58. As the testing came closer to the edge, the blade got harder. At the edge of the plain edge version, the hardness was Rc65. On the serrated edge version, the same Rc58 at the spine, but the edge was Rc68+. (becasue the serrating of the blade is more "work" than the plain edge version)" - Sal Glesser

Can you show me any other steel Spyderco has used where they claimed an RC rating of 68 or higher? I can't recall any, including the mule series.

Note Spyderco DOES NOT claim these things about SE 8Cr, SE 154CM, SE VG10, SE S30V, etc. Nobody does.

So many doubters, but so few of them want to see the evidence first hand.

Five years ago you couldn't pay me to EDC a serrated knife. I had convinced myself they were inferior. After about a decade of reading these claims, I said enough is enough, I'm ordering a SE Pacific Salt and testing it head to head against my PE Pacific Salt.

At the time I'd usually EDC my PE Pacific Salt to work, where I cut thick nylon straps, cardboard, and shrink wrap. The PE Salt would start slipping around on the plastic wrap after two days of carry at work, but since the environment was so corrosive the trade-off in maintenance was worth it.

When I tested the SE Pacific Salt, it went the first two weeks without showing any need to be sharpened. It lasted over five times as long in my real world use, unscientific comparison between identical models.

That alone sold me.

The next three years, the majority of which was spent with the same SE Pacific Salt in my pocket, only reinforced what that initial test showed me. Not only does it blow away PE H1 edge holding, but every other knife I own. All of them. Choppers, kitchen knives, high end pocket knives in exotic meme steels. My SE H1 knives outlast them all.

I have thousands of dollars of beautiful Spydercos. The full sized Calypso sprint. Black blade Szabo folder. DLC Manix XL. K390 Police 4. I've had the ZDP/CF Stretch, S90V/BG42/CPMD2/S30V/S60V Military, Phoenix, ZDP Enduras, ATR's....basically I've tried every Spyderco that's appealed to me over the years, and still own my favorites. Yet the SE Pacific Salt sees more pocket time than all those knives combined.

For under $100 you guys can buy a SE Salt and test these claims for yourself. Salt models are very economical compared to most folders I see posted in the What's In Your Pocket thread.

If the testimony of Sal, Spyderco, and half the active members on this website isn't enough to convince you, buy one and try it out.
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Re: H1 Revisited

#30

Post by Tims »

It’s certainly been a great steel for a lot of people. I look forward to testing it.
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Re: H1 Revisited

#31

Post by Surfingringo »

I started with plain edge H1. That was my first Spyderco. I used it hard on the kayak and was amazed at the corrosion resistance but was pretty unimpressed with the edge performance. Soon after that I tried serrated H1 and the performance difference was so large that I essentially wrote off pe H1 and worked almost exclusively with the steel in serrated form. I have done some further testing of pe H1 along the way and have decided that though it is not a world class performer in pe, it is not as bad as I initially felt it was.

When it comes to pe H1 performance, it is largely dependent on what type of media you are cutting. For normal edc tasks like rope, cardboard, food, etc, the steel performs at an acceptable level and is more than suitable for everyday use (at least for me). The Achilles heel of this steel though is strength, or lack thereof. PE H1 is a bit more prone to plastic deformation than many other modern steels we have access to. What this means is that one guy might use it for a week cutting certain types of media and find that it performs almost as good as his vg10. Another guy might use it on harder media and find that it dulls almost instantly due to edge rolling where something like vg10 would have survived. Those two guys were using the same steel but due to what they were cutting they would end up with completely different opinions of pe H1’s edge performance. I find that a lot of my use on the kayak (cutting through fish ribs, bones and heavy scales and gills) is right on the edge of what pe H1 can accomplish without deformation. Sometimes my edge will survive and sometimes it will dull immediately. The main reason I prefer lc200n in pe is that it has a bit more strength and is more capable of handling some of the harder cutting without experiencing the deformation that will dull an edge instantly.
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Re: H1 Revisited

#32

Post by Surfingringo »

I should mention that I have been carrying a pe H1 Salt 2 everyday for the last couple of months, both on land and on the water. It doesn’t hold an edge as long as my Caribbean, Native and Waterway in lc200n but it is not terrible either. The steel’s toughness, ease of sharpening and rust proof nature largely make up for any shortcomings in edge performance. I’m a big fan of lc200n but I would hate to see Spyderco move away from H1 anytime soon. It is a pretty unique offering with an outstanding set of properties.
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Re: H1 Revisited

#33

Post by Pelagic »

This makes me want to get a Pac Salt SE.
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Re: H1 Revisited

#34

Post by Doeswhateveraspidercan »

Pelagic wrote:
Wed Jul 17, 2019 9:02 am
This makes me want to get a Pac Salt SE.
Nah, not for a nobody like you :p
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Re: H1 Revisited

#35

Post by wrdwrght »

Sticky! Make this thread a sticky, pulheeze... Newbies will benefit, and maybe H1 won’t go the way of the Dodo (the actual bird, that is).

Vivi has pulled together a bunch of good stuff and in thoroughly convincing fashion, and the Gringo’s current thinking (post-WaterWay) really does matter.
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Re: H1 Revisited

#36

Post by Doeswhateveraspidercan »

Why is there a concern that Spyderco as the only company producing production knives in H1 will cease doing so?

Is It because of the emergence and popularity of LC200N in recent years? Has Sal said something to cause this thinking?

Seems to me they are both unique and have a place in the line up.

Lance made several great points about LC200N and his use of it in chopping through Fish Bones.

I for one would much rather plastic deformation that is easy to fix over chipping any day of the week. This is where H1 comes in strong.

Furthermore when it comes to which of the two steels has superior corrosion resistance is it not true H1 is superior in that LC200N will corrode when in contact with other metals?

Either way I have to say this Salt 2 SE H1 DLC is getting full pocket time since it arrived and being put to work in ways I would never consider doing with other knives opening paint cans etc...

Hope it stays in production for the benefit of those who do not have this steel. Also hope if there are thoughts of Discoing H1 they give us a heads up so I can get some backups.
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Re: H1 Revisited

#37

Post by Chris_P_Bacon »

Tims wrote:
Wed Jul 17, 2019 5:00 am
I don’t tend to get emotionally attached to the performance of knife steels and anecdote alone isn’t quite enough for me on this one. I’d love to see some hrc test data for H1 SE.

Tims
Not a thing wrong with being a healthy skeptic., I'm one as well. Not being an expert, all I can do is rely on the information available. Links below to support this next part.

There's something going on here that is like a differential heat treat. In that the spine is a different hardness than the edge. H1 wasn't differentially heat treated however (as most folks realize).

When it is rolled, it's hardness changes, it seems to (does) work harden from the rolling process. Other steels don't seem to work like this. H1 however, is a different animal.

Additionally, as the edge is shaped to form the serrations, that tends to make the edge harder (than the spine). So what we're seeing here should be referred to as differentially hardened (instead of differentially heat treated). Spine at 58 HRC, with the edge over 60 (64 - 65 as Sal has spoken about) see POST 16 in the link below.
http://www.bladeforums.com/threads/h1-s ... ost4484958

Also, more info here:
http://www.bladeforums.com/threads/h1-s ... h.1204137/
and
http://www.bladeforums.com/threads/se-h ... c.1177796/

Also interesting, most steels double their edge retention when serrations are added. But H-1 quadruples!
Last edited by Chris_P_Bacon on Wed Jul 17, 2019 3:03 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: H1 Revisited

#38

Post by tonijedi »

Surfingringo wrote:
Wed Jul 17, 2019 6:56 am
I should mention that I have been carrying a pe H1 Salt 2 everyday for the last couple of months, both on land and on the water. It doesn’t hold an edge as long as my Caribbean, Native and Waterway in lc200n but it is not terrible either. The steel’s toughness, ease of sharpening and rust proof nature largely make up for any shortcomings in edge performance. I’m a big fan of lc200n but I would hate to see Spyderco move away from H1 anytime soon. It is a pretty unique offering with an outstanding set of properties.
Mr Lance,
At what angle are you sharpening the PE Salt 2?
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Re: H1 Revisited

#39

Post by Danvp »

Just bought a Pacific salt all black SE and a df2 Salt SE. I blame you guys... :D
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Re: H1 Revisited

#40

Post by vivi »

One thing I want to bring up about PE H1 in particular, is I think folks will see a great benefit from using lower grits on this steel.

While it takes a nice polish and can get screaming sharp at high grits, I find the edge loses slicing aggression real quick when given a high polish. Slicing synthetic rope, for example, it will start sliding around, slipping off the rope pretty quick compared to other steels IMO. It loses it's slicing ability fast this way.

This is what initially led me to experiment with lower grit edges in fact. I was trying to eek more performance out of my PE Pacific Salt. This was just before I switched to the SE models.

I started out by trying a few different grits on my PE Aqua Salt, and using it to slice cardboard. Sharpmaker brown rods worked a lot better for me than the fine or ultrafine I was using previously. I also got good results using nothing but my DMT X course reprofiling stone. Even after some blunting and rolling, the microserrations were so deep and aggressive that it retained slicing aggression much longer.

I'd suggest trying the brown rods if you haven't, and if you have something even lower grit, try that too.

I sharpen my PE H1 knives at 15dps, and take the back bevel down even thinner. The edge has been perfectly stable for me running it at those angles, YMMV.

SE H1 I see more benefit from a higher polish. It retains slicing aggression much longer given that it's a serrated edge, so polishing it up some to give it better push cutting ability balances out its attributes better than low grit edges IMO. I like medium to fine finish here, though a 15 degree edge straight off the diamond rods slices like the devil :D
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