CTS-XHP Thread

[Banter 247]

My XHP experience has been entirely with Spyderco models. I own a blue weave Domino and a Cutlery Shoppe exclusive Para 3 in it, and had a Chaparral here for awhile for review.

I cut a lot at work. About 3/5 days a week, it’s normal for me to do over 100 feet of cardboard, 30-50 zip ties, 20-40 plastic banding straps, lots of layered plastic wrap, etc. On the other days... still a fair bit of plastic banding straps and cardboard. Most of the cardboard I cut is double wall stuff.

With that, I really like a blade that’s thin behind the edge, around 15 degrees per side, with enough retention to keep me from having to pour too much time into sharpening, and with good edge stability.

It’s a running joke in my circle of friends that the Domino is blessed/cursed, however you interpret this. When I carry that knife, people call out for freight shifts, we get huge drops, etc. It’s just... soooo uncanny. So, it has a lot of more on the blade.

It’s soooooo daaaaammmnnnn gooooooddd. Keeps its edge through all I do, and hasn’t rolled or chipped at all. Strips back like a dream.

[ladybug93]

I would like to see a rerun of the brown XHP M2 LW that was available for a while. It was a handy hiking knife that I ended up losing somewhere along the way.

that’s a real shame! it’s my favorite of all my knives. i hope you get your wish. maybe the bd1n will be close enough when they are available?

Added to my post above: Question to all of you who know more about steels than I do: Do you also feel that there´s a lot similarity between S30V and XHP, the latter performing just sligthly "better"? Or is that/my impression more based on that I have not really experienced too many different steels?

i also know very little about steels, but i’d say the edge holding between the two is pretty comparable in regular usage. i’d say s30v has given me less corrosion, but neither has a real problem in this area either. i like both, but prefer xhp overall.

[Doc Dan]

Then there are these tests, as well.

https://youtu.be/SdoNBtc6tmI

https://youtu.be/f2WU-vUpfXc

In these two tests, XHP came out on top.

[Catamount123]

XHP is a great stainless steel no doubt about it, but I prefer M390 over it. It feels like the same steel but turned up one notch in every single attribute. Same amazing fine edge holding if not even better, coupled with better stain resistance and ease of sharpening. I don't own any knife in XHP anymore, but I would definitely re-purchase it if given the chance in a knife that's attractive to my uses. So I agree with you, I want more, both XHP and M390! :D

In my limited experience, M390/CPM-20CV/CTS-204P is considerably more difficult to sharpen (apex at 20 DPS, no reprofiling) than CTS-XHP, using the Sharpmaker medium, fine and UF rods. What are you using? If I can't get a good edge with my Sharpmaker, in a reasonable amount of time, then a steel is much less appealing to me. S30V is about as difficult as I want to go, sharpening wise.

[TkoK83Spy]

The key for you will be to make sure you touch up daily after use. That's what I did when it came to my BBS Para 3 in M390. Until I overdid it at work one day and it actually became dull. I couldn't get it with the medium stones and ended up buying the CBN stones and started fresh. Took a bit, but got it back to razor sharp. I also had a similar experience with my Chaparral LW. Too me, they seemed similar to get the edge back, maybe a little less time for the Chap.

I've had spurts of frustration and also great success with the Sharpmaker. Sometimes I even find it easier to hold the rod in my hand and sharpen that way. Takes a lot of practice, keep at it!

[emanuel]

In my limited experience, M390/CPM-20CV/CTS-204P is considerably more difficult to sharpen (apex at 20 DPS, no reprofiling) than CTS-XHP, using the Sharpmaker medium, fine and UF rods. What are you using? If I can't get a good edge with my Sharpmaker, in a reasonable amount of time, then a steel is much less appealing to me. S30V is about as difficult as I want to go, sharpening wise.

I start with 1200 grit silicon carbide, 2000 grit diamond, then finishing off on Spyderco 306UF ceramic stone. For extra bite I sometimes do 1 micron diamond stropping. I never let my knives go very dull, but when they do, I start with a 400 grit silicon carbide stone instead. My setup is pretty basic, all freehand. The diamond plates, of which I also have a 1000 grit one, are some $3 stones from China. The 1000 grit one is very rough, I didn't like how it was always chipping my edges so I use it as a very effective stone flattener, works great for the money lol.

[Halfneck]

First experience with CTS-XHP was with a Ken Brock custom fixed blade that now lives in my go-bag. When the Manix LW came out in it I jumped at it. Gave me the chance to check out that knife in a steel I like. Liked the Manix LW, but generally prefer smaller knives so I picked up a Rhino. It is now my EDC most days. I will probably end up getting the Chaparral LW too.

I like the steel because of it being similar to D2 - which I have a history with. I can get it sharp on a benchstone, and it holds a good toothy edge for me for a while.

[steelcity16]

I would have liked to see the Sage LW in XHP rather than S30V. The Chap LW is great in XHP.

[Wartstein]

So comparing S30V to XHP, it seems like S30V holds a toothy edge for a longer time, but XHP a fine one? Did I get that right?

As I already stated, for me XHP feels more similar to S30V than to any other steel I've used (including D2, but I did not really use too many different steels), just a tad "better" Sharpens a bit quicker, holds an edge a bit longer for me, both really not by much.

I can get all steels I used so far sharp (had a hard time with ZDP though), but I am really not advanced enough to distinguish if I produce a "toothy" or a "fine" edge.

So I'd like to ask: Normally I just touch up my knives on the fine (not ULTRAfine) sharpmaker rods, and strop them on an unloaded leather strop (if really dull I'd start with the brown rods).
That will rather produce a FINE than a TOOTHY edge, right??

[emanuel]

Wartstein, not only a finer edge but one that doesn't get lost as fast, probably due to having lower carbide volume than S30V.

So I'd like to ask: Normally I just touch up my knives on the fine (not ULTRAfine) sharpmaker rods, and strop them on an unloaded leather strop (if really dull I'd start with the brown rods).
That will rather produce a FINE than a TOOTHY edge, right??

As for your question, yes that is a fine edge. The Spyderco fine ceramic is rated at the equivalent of 6 micron (not official), that's about 4000 grit. But it cuts like a much finer stone, something in the 8k range. The same with the ultra fine, it polishes like something that's over 12k. I suggest you get some cheap 1 micron diamond paste, you can find a 5 gram syringe with that stuff for under $10 in the US. It helps with the burr removal and makes the edge more crisp. It also lasts you a long time and its not a drain on your pocket like those diamond spray emulsions are :D

[Doc Dan]

As with the videos I posted above, I seem to think XHP holds an edge longer than S30V, and it is somehow not too bad to sharpen. S30V can make a saint cuss, sometimes (not that it cannot be sharpened). I either freehand (usually) or use a Lansky guided sharpener.

[emanuel]

I'm curious what minor tweaks in composition would S30V need in order to surpass XHP in being a better overall performer (give up some of that working edge retention for a better fine edge, ease of sharpening, better polishing etc) ? Because it sure has the potential. Vanadium reduction to 2% and an increase in Chromium? Because as of now its just an underperforming S90V. If I would have caught myself saying this 10 years ago I would have cussed myself out lol. Funny how much we've got spoiled by great steels since then :D At the same time a lot of people do like its mix of properties.

[gull wing]

I like XHP a lot, have several, i like how super sharp it gets and not too hard to keep it that way. I don't require a knife to keep it's working edge a really long time.
I also would have liked XHP on the Sage 5 LW instead of S30V.

[Wartstein]

Wartstein, not only a finer edge but one that doesn't get lost as fast, probably due to having lower carbide volume than S30V.

So I'd like to ask: Normally I just touch up my knives on the fine (not ULTRAfine) sharpmaker rods, and strop them on an unloaded leather strop (if really dull I'd start with the brown rods).
That will rather produce a FINE than a TOOTHY edge, right??

As for your question, yes that is a fine edge. The Spyderco fine ceramic is rated at the equivalent of 6 micron (not official), that's about 4000 grit. But it cuts like a much finer stone, something in the 8k range. The same with the ultra fine, it polishes like something that's over 12k. I suggest you get some cheap 1 micron diamond paste, you can find a 5 gram syringe with that stuff for under $10 in the US. It helps with the burr removal and makes the edge more crisp. It also lasts you a long time and its not a drain on your pocket like those diamond spray emulsions are :D

Thanks much for your explanations and advise!!

My unloaded leather strop really already does give especially my VG10 blades a bit more sharpness on top of what the sharpmaker does, but you're probably right and I should try it loaded with diamond paste..

[JD Spydo]

XHP is a great stainless steel no doubt about it, but I prefer M390 over it. It feels like the same steel but turned up one notch in every single attribute. Same amazing fine edge holding if not even better, coupled with better stain resistance and ease of sharpening. I don't own any knife in XHP anymore, but I would definitely re-purchase it if given the chance in a knife that's attractive to my uses. So I agree with you, I want more, both XHP and M390! :D

Well I have to agree with "Emanuel" on that one. I have C-36 Military models with both XHP & M390 and the unit with M390 gets far more use than the one with XHP. Now I am keeping the XHP unit as a "back-up" just in case anything were to happen to my M390 Millie that might be unforeseen and unexpected. I find that the M390 takes a bit more of a penetrating edge and doesn't require sharpening nearly as often.

Albeit I do have a lot of respect for XHP and would not hesitate to get a model with that steel if it was one I really liked. Actually from what I've heard XHP is a great blade steel for serrated/Spyderedges. IF they ever bring back the C-36 Millie in SE I would like to see that unit in XHP or the older 440V which is also an extremely rugged steel for SE. But for plain edged use I'm sticking to my M390 Milllie for now.