What do you use for touch up? What is your process? :confused:
H1 Serrated vs LC200N Serrated
- steelcity16
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Re: H1 Serrated vs LC200N Serrated
What do you use for touch up? What is your process? :confused:
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Re: H1 Serrated vs LC200N Serrated
I reckon the SharpMaker would be fine?Evil D wrote: ↑Tue May 21, 2019 7:22 pmMacLaren wrote: ↑Tue May 21, 2019 7:04 pmWow. That good eh?Evil D wrote: ↑Tue May 21, 2019 6:17 pm
I'm definitely biased at this point, I'd have to say SE. I am legitimately a believer and aside from special cases like a Cruwear Shaman, I don't plan on buying anymore PE knives unless it's a new design that I just have to experience. Even with the serrations grabbing the mulch in the bag it still cut through.
I always knew the Jumpmaster always the best reputation for a cutter. I guess those serrated blades are that good.
Done deal then. Serrated it is!!
I've become accustomed to how aggressive serrations cut. I don't really know how else to word that. I haven't had the snagging or jagged cutting issues that people (even myself in the past) talk about. Part of the issue, well the entire issue I think, is getting them sharp enough and maintaining that sharpness. I've read a lot of comments about how serrations hold an edge longer and continue to cut and/or cut better when dull than a plain edge cuts when dull, and I think that mentality has a lot to do with the snagging issues because people are neglecting their edges and assuming it'll be ok. I just touch mine up after every major use or at the end of the day or whatever comes first and they cut as good or better than plain edge.
And, thank you for the info David. I really appreciate it.
Re: H1 Serrated vs LC200N Serrated
Definitely. I've used my sharpmaker at 15 degrees for my Pacific Salt for years and with no other tools I can get it sharp enough to catch arm hairs above the skin and send them flying. The 20 degree slot works as well, I use that on my Tasman Salt that's a beater.MacLaren wrote: ↑Tue May 21, 2019 8:04 pmI reckon the SharpMaker would be fine?Evil D wrote: ↑Tue May 21, 2019 7:22 pmMacLaren wrote: ↑Tue May 21, 2019 7:04 pmWow. That good eh?Evil D wrote: ↑Tue May 21, 2019 6:17 pm
I'm definitely biased at this point, I'd have to say SE. I am legitimately a believer and aside from special cases like a Cruwear Shaman, I don't plan on buying anymore PE knives unless it's a new design that I just have to experience. Even with the serrations grabbing the mulch in the bag it still cut through.
I always knew the Jumpmaster always the best reputation for a cutter. I guess those serrated blades are that good.
Done deal then. Serrated it is!!
I've become accustomed to how aggressive serrations cut. I don't really know how else to word that. I haven't had the snagging or jagged cutting issues that people (even myself in the past) talk about. Part of the issue, well the entire issue I think, is getting them sharp enough and maintaining that sharpness. I've read a lot of comments about how serrations hold an edge longer and continue to cut and/or cut better when dull than a plain edge cuts when dull, and I think that mentality has a lot to do with the snagging issues because people are neglecting their edges and assuming it'll be ok. I just touch mine up after every major use or at the end of the day or whatever comes first and they cut as good or better than plain edge.
And, thank you for the info David. I really appreciate it.
Re: H1 Serrated vs LC200N Serrated
I had a feeling I shouldn't read this thread. Now I'm thinking about a SE Caribbean. Whether or not I actually "need" one or even end up buying one, my mind is thinking about it now. I love my PE Caribbean, and it sounds like the SE LC200N is at least comparable to SE H1.
Jim
Jim
Re: H1 Serrated vs LC200N Serrated
steelcity16 wrote: ↑Tue May 21, 2019 7:47 pm
What do you use for touch up? What is your process? :confused:
Just the Sharpmaker. I do it basically how the video says, doing about twice as many passes on the front as the back, but when I do the back I tilt the blade over until it's almost touching the stone so it gets the lowest angle I can get. I'm not sure if this makes for sharper edges, I just figure it maintains the chisel grind better than running the back side at a higher angle. I use the 40 slots on most of my serrations because 30 usually hits the shoulder of the serrations.
All SE all the time since 2017
~David
~David
Re: H1 Serrated vs LC200N Serrated
I don't have any LC200N blades but one thing they might be better than H1 SE is that FFG will be slicier than the hollow gring. My main EDC is the SE Salt 2, I like it a lot and for my uses the thicker blade is good but I reckon my SE S35VN Native 5 slices with less effort.
- Doc Dan
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Re: H1 Serrated vs LC200N Serrated
You will be on a cruise ship, not on a small sail boat or fishing boat. I think the plain edge would be far, far, more practical.MacLaren wrote: ↑Tue May 21, 2019 2:23 pmI am right now trying to decide whether to get the leaf serrated or leaf plain. I've been tremendously impressed with the Caribbean ever since I first handled one last year at Smokey Mountain Knifeworks. Just a very fine knife imo.Evil D wrote: ↑Mon May 20, 2019 5:02 pmToday was mulch day, so the Caribbean was put to some hard-ish use. I did find that cutting open bags of mulch isn't the best job for serrations, as they catch everything in the bag. Still though, this edge will still cut phone book paper with ease. That's the difference between H1...H1 will continue cutting and keep a working edge, but it loosing the peak sharpness faster.
So, plain or serrated?
I will say a deciding factor will be possible self defense.
I say that because we are going on a cruise on a few weeks and the wife wanted me to bring a knife for protection just in case.
They allow up to a 4" blade.
Now, I have quite a few knives that I could take,.but what a great excuse to get a new Spydie! And, since were going on a cruise out in the Salt water, what a great time to get a Caribbean.
Any suggestions?
At first I really wanted the serrated, but now I'm really leaning towards plain.
Lol, doesn't really matter I reckon. Plain should be fine.
But, serrated should too :D
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Follow the Christ, the King,
Live pure, speak true, right wrong, follow the King--
Else, wherefore born?" (Tennyson)
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Re: H1 Serrated vs LC200N Serrated
What makes serrations unpractical?
All SE all the time since 2017
~David
~David
Re: H1 Serrated vs LC200N Serrated
Maybe it’s my woodworking background, but I lean towards plain edges because shaving, scraping, and fine detail work are all regular features of my daily knife usage. Plain edge works better for those tasks. I love the aggressive performance of a Spyderedge, but not enough to outweigh my need to accomplish those tasks for which a plain edge is called for.
- Doc Dan
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Re: H1 Serrated vs LC200N Serrated
I do not see situations in which a serrated edge would be a better choice than a plain edge on board a cruise ship. Of course, if that is what he wants, that is okay. I think a plain edge would be better for anything he is likely to encounter.
What I am amazed about is that the cruise ship let's someone carry a 4" bladed knife. It has been years since I have been on a cruise, but I seem to remember they did not allow such a large knife. But that may only have been the line I used or even the port requirements.
I Pray Heaven to Bestow The Best of Blessing on THIS HOUSE, and on ALL that shall hereafter Inhabit it. May none but Honest and Wise Men ever rule under This Roof! (John Adams regarding the White House)
Follow the Christ, the King,
Live pure, speak true, right wrong, follow the King--
Else, wherefore born?" (Tennyson)
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Follow the Christ, the King,
Live pure, speak true, right wrong, follow the King--
Else, wherefore born?" (Tennyson)
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Re: H1 Serrated vs LC200N Serrated
Sorry to bump a 2 year old thread, but I’m really interested in hearing new information about this head-to-head matchup. It’s come time for me to pick up a Pac Salt 2 in SE, and suggestions about which steel to purchase would be ideal!
Re: H1 Serrated vs LC200N Serrated
i do have a se sheepsfoot caribbean now to compare to the se h1 pac salt. honestly, i prefer the h1 in se still. in my experience, the edge of my pac salt rolls and suffers damage less than my caribbean. that's not to say either is a problem, but the h1 pac salt outperforms my lc200n caribbean. the caribbean shines at having outstanding quality construction and a lock i prefer.
preferences for my uses...
se sheepsfoot caribbean: great edc knife. has a high quality feel and a compression lock that is super smooth. this knife combines the serrations and low maintenance of my pacific salt, the good ergonomics and slight belly of my manix 2 lw, and the compression lock of my yojimbo. those are my three favorite spydercos and the caribbean captures basically what i like about all of them in a single, imperfect, but still great, package.
se h1 pacific salt: this knife is always on me in the water and when i work out. it's very lightweight and thin, so i barely even notice it in my waistband. last night i was doing a workout that had me rolling around on the floor and it wasn't bothering me at all. the edge stability is great and i've tested it on some pretty gnarly plastic netting i found on a beach in hawaii. some of the netting was normal and thin, but some was very thick plastic that was over 1/4" thick. it's never even winced at anything i've put it through and all that combined with the simple backlock design makes it the knife i trust most with my life for emergency use in the water.
preferences for my uses...
se sheepsfoot caribbean: great edc knife. has a high quality feel and a compression lock that is super smooth. this knife combines the serrations and low maintenance of my pacific salt, the good ergonomics and slight belly of my manix 2 lw, and the compression lock of my yojimbo. those are my three favorite spydercos and the caribbean captures basically what i like about all of them in a single, imperfect, but still great, package.
se h1 pacific salt: this knife is always on me in the water and when i work out. it's very lightweight and thin, so i barely even notice it in my waistband. last night i was doing a workout that had me rolling around on the floor and it wasn't bothering me at all. the edge stability is great and i've tested it on some pretty gnarly plastic netting i found on a beach in hawaii. some of the netting was normal and thin, but some was very thick plastic that was over 1/4" thick. it's never even winced at anything i've put it through and all that combined with the simple backlock design makes it the knife i trust most with my life for emergency use in the water.
keep your knife sharp and your focus sharper.
current collection:
C36MCW2, C258YL, C253GBBK, C258GFBL, C101GBBK2, C11GYW, C11FWNB20CV, C101GBN15V2, C101GODFDE2, C60GGY, C149G, C189, C101GBN2, MT35, C211TI, C242CF, C217GSSF, C101BN2, C85G2, C91BBK, C142G, C122GBBK, LBK, LYL3HB, C193, C28YL2, C11ZPGYD, C41YL5, C252G, C130G, PLKIT1
spyderco steels:
H2, CPM 20CV, CPM 15V, CTS 204P, CPM CRUWEAR, CPM S30V, N690Co, M390, CPM MagnaCut, LC200N, CTS XHP, H1, 8Cr13MoV, GIN-1, CTS BD1, VG-10, VG-10/Damascus, 440C
current collection:
C36MCW2, C258YL, C253GBBK, C258GFBL, C101GBBK2, C11GYW, C11FWNB20CV, C101GBN15V2, C101GODFDE2, C60GGY, C149G, C189, C101GBN2, MT35, C211TI, C242CF, C217GSSF, C101BN2, C85G2, C91BBK, C142G, C122GBBK, LBK, LYL3HB, C193, C28YL2, C11ZPGYD, C41YL5, C252G, C130G, PLKIT1
spyderco steels:
H2, CPM 20CV, CPM 15V, CTS 204P, CPM CRUWEAR, CPM S30V, N690Co, M390, CPM MagnaCut, LC200N, CTS XHP, H1, 8Cr13MoV, GIN-1, CTS BD1, VG-10, VG-10/Damascus, 440C
Re: H1 Serrated vs LC200N Serrated
SE LC200N Pacific Salt - Lighter, full flat grind works better on a lot of materials, thinner tip penetrates better.TheGiant80 wrote: ↑Thu Jul 01, 2021 10:34 amSorry to bump a 2 year old thread, but I’m really interested in hearing new information about this head-to-head matchup. It’s come time for me to pick up a Pac Salt 2 in SE, and suggestions about which steel to purchase would be ideal!
SE H1 Pacific - Better edge holding from what I've seen, better toughness, stouter tip is more forgiving in hard use / light prying, usually a bit cheaper, tend to have less side to side play in my examples.
They are both very good steels. The full flat ground models are extremely light for the size and have great geometry, but you'll need to be a bit more careful with them. For some reason all my LC200N salts have had more side to side play than the same model in H1. No idea why.
Re: H1 Serrated vs LC200N Serrated
As I've said before, I'd go with LC based on blade grind option alone. I don't see enough advantage from H1 in any category (edge retention/toughness) to choose a hollow grind over a thinner ground FFG. The performance of the two are close enough to pick the grind you like best, regardless of which has better edge retention it's not like we're talking about Maxamet vs VG10 here, the difference is more like S30V vs S35VN.
All SE all the time since 2017
~David
~David
Re: H1 Serrated vs LC200N Serrated
I like the LC200N Pac Salt more for when I’ll be doing more food prep, ie slicing cheese or sausage, gutting/filling fish. The H1 version is for the rough work: punching holes in steel bait cans, digging, prying. Like Vivi said above, I’ve found that the LC Pac Salts have more side AND vertical play than my H1s. Both are great though and often I just grab whichever is closer to the top of my carry pile.
Current Carries: Military 4V, Stretch XL Cruwear, Sage 1 CF, Siren Sprint S90V, ZDP Delica
Wishlist: Cruwear Military, Super Blue Caly 3.5
Favorite Steels: CTS-XHP, Cruwear, ZDP-189, LC200N
Wishlist: Cruwear Military, Super Blue Caly 3.5
Favorite Steels: CTS-XHP, Cruwear, ZDP-189, LC200N
Re: H1 Serrated vs LC200N Serrated
i should have distinguished between the grinds... part of the reason i prefer the h1 for harder use is the hollow grind. and i prefer the ffg of the caribbean for edc.
keep your knife sharp and your focus sharper.
current collection:
C36MCW2, C258YL, C253GBBK, C258GFBL, C101GBBK2, C11GYW, C11FWNB20CV, C101GBN15V2, C101GODFDE2, C60GGY, C149G, C189, C101GBN2, MT35, C211TI, C242CF, C217GSSF, C101BN2, C85G2, C91BBK, C142G, C122GBBK, LBK, LYL3HB, C193, C28YL2, C11ZPGYD, C41YL5, C252G, C130G, PLKIT1
spyderco steels:
H2, CPM 20CV, CPM 15V, CTS 204P, CPM CRUWEAR, CPM S30V, N690Co, M390, CPM MagnaCut, LC200N, CTS XHP, H1, 8Cr13MoV, GIN-1, CTS BD1, VG-10, VG-10/Damascus, 440C
current collection:
C36MCW2, C258YL, C253GBBK, C258GFBL, C101GBBK2, C11GYW, C11FWNB20CV, C101GBN15V2, C101GODFDE2, C60GGY, C149G, C189, C101GBN2, MT35, C211TI, C242CF, C217GSSF, C101BN2, C85G2, C91BBK, C142G, C122GBBK, LBK, LYL3HB, C193, C28YL2, C11ZPGYD, C41YL5, C252G, C130G, PLKIT1
spyderco steels:
H2, CPM 20CV, CPM 15V, CTS 204P, CPM CRUWEAR, CPM S30V, N690Co, M390, CPM MagnaCut, LC200N, CTS XHP, H1, 8Cr13MoV, GIN-1, CTS BD1, VG-10, VG-10/Damascus, 440C