3D files of blade shapes for accessory products

[Elderberry]

Hi!

Does anyone have a 3d file of the PM2 blade?

I made a plastic thumb-assist for my PM2 and I would really like to make them using a 3D printer because that can be done in carbon fiber and would be much more useful. I have tried to wing it with calipers but the results are not great.

My thumb-assist is awesome and I want to support other people who could use just a little more thumb grip for opening their knife.

[JD Spydo]

Hi!

Does anyone have a 3d file of the PM2 blade?

I made a plastic thumb-assist for my PM2 and I would really like to make them using a 3D printer because that can be done in carbon fiber and would be much more useful. I have tried to wing it with calipers but the results are not great.

My thumb-assist is awesome and I want to support other people who could use just a little more thumb grip for opening their knife.

ON the surface this sounds quite interesting. Now I don't carry any of my PM 2 units nearly as much as I do my hallowed M390 Military. But what the heck if you've got some type of device that would make for more rapid deployment of a PM 2 I could change my mind if it's really that good.

Not to get off the subject but I've also considered the possibility of adding a thumb spike on a couple of my Spyderco models. Because the old thumb stud on my old, retired Benchmade Boguszewski Spike model came in quite handy on many occasions.

But I'm interested to see how this would work :)

[Elderberry]

Thanks for the interest.
Here's a photo of my kydex version.
The thumb assist is unobtrusive but makes a huge difference in ease of opening, especially with gloves!

[Mini2white]

Where this may have a use is for people wearing work gloves or winter gloves needing extra purchase on the hole. Similar assistance to the thumb ramp on the Assist.

[curlyhairedboy]

looks similar to the cobra hood on the ATR!

[rabbitanarchy14]

its a great idea and looks kool. i would be interested in something like that for working outside.

[Elderberry]

I actually just like using it in general. Makes opening really easy. I want to print these without a lot of wasteful back and forth. There’s a nice spot where the grind leaves a sharp angle to allow my thumb-assist to sit securely. Isn’t there a 3d file of the blade somewhere in Spyderco?

[Sharp Guy]

OP what do you use for 3D modeling? I think it would be easier (and likely faster) to just draw the blade and then use that as a template for your part. Fusion 360 has a feature where you can import a picture of an object. Then you can scale the pic to size using known dimensions. Once you have that you just draw the shape and extrude to the thickness. Doing the grind angles is a little more tricky but wouldn't need to be perfect for what you need. Heck you wouldn't even need to do the whole blade, just the section you're making the part for.

[remnar]

I can appreciate the fact that you would like to take a great big shortcut in designing your doohicky but If anyone at Spyderco is dumb enough to start posting 3d files of their knife parts, then they should be fired. The last thing that a Spyderco employee should be doing is giving the counterfeiters help in stealing designs. If a nonemployee has this type of file and they wish to share it with you, then that decision is on them.

[Elderberry]

What??
Respectfully, anyone wanting to copy a Spyderco blade has a 3d scanner and wouldn't spend 5 minutes talking about it. Guessing and printing things that don't quite fit is the costly process I don't want to engage in.
If it were rubber or epoxy, then I would take a silicone mold and be done. Since I want to 3d print in carbon, I thought I'd come here and ask a question because emailing me a 3d file is easy and can't really be harmful to anyone.

[Sumdumguy]

What??
Respectfully, anyone wanting to copy a Spyderco blade has a 3d scanner and wouldn't spend 5 minutes talking about it. Guessing and printing things that don't quite fit is the costly process I don't want to engage in.
If it were rubber or epoxy, then I would take a silicone mold and be done. Since I want to 3d print in carbon, I thought I'd come here and ask a question because emailing me a 3d file is easy and can't really be harmful to anyone.

No offense intended in my response.

It is completely absurd to think a company would provide exact 3D models of their knives to anyone asking. Especially with how rampant counterfeiting is.

In my experience, no two blades are going to be exactly the same. I can measure three different PM2 blades and get three different sets of measurements.

For example, if you order a set of custom scales for a Native 5 G10, they will not fit on the S110V version. The measurements are just different enough on the S110V to muck everything up. Same goes with blades.

You would need to purchase multiple different examples of the knife in question, measure them all to get a baseline and make your product out of a material flexible enough to work on all of them. Otherwise you will end up having to deal with potential returns and/or negative reviews.

Good luck, I hope you find a way to make it work for those who feel they need an item like this.

[Sharp Guy]

Guessing and printing things that don't quite fit is the costly process I don't want to engage in.

All you need to do is model your Kydex version and print a proto and tweak the design and repeat. I've been making a few things on my 3D printers recently and one of best features is that you can print prototypes right at home. I sometimes print just a section or even one feature of a model several times to get it right before I spend the time to print the whole thing. Also, another great feature of 3D printing is that the filament is relatively inexpensive. Not sure where you're coming from when you say it's costly. That part should cost you pennies to make. If your worried about the cost of CF filament (it's still inexpensive) then make them out of PLA first. Be creative

https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-1-75 ... 0084&psc=1

[Elderberry]

Sumdumguy and Sharp Guy

Thank you both for your responses. I get (now) that each blade is different. I didn't understand that the process was to manually grind each blade down.

My intention was to use the tiny shoulders left from that grind as an anchor for the thumb assist. This won't be possible the way I hoped. As for how to be creative in my prototyping... cheapo printers are available and getting better which is why starting with a model that Spyderco 'may' have had available, especially if they use CNC milling (which apparently they don't).

My question wasn't so much 'I don't know how to do it ' as 'I'd like to make an accessory to match the knife precisely ', to which I thought asking here might provide fruit.

Thanks for your input and for educating me.

I am grateful.