FRN Grittiness
FRN Grittiness
Every time I take my FRN Dragonfly Salt to work, it ends up getting a bunch of grit in the pivot that leads me to take it to bits almost every day to clean it. It isn't so bad as to significantly worsen the action or anything, it's just more of an annoyance that doesn't happen with my PM2 that I recently got or any other knife I've had. When I clean it, all I do is take the pivot screw out, wipe off the blade pivot area, pivot, and the area of the handle that the blade comes into contact with, throw on a very small amount of a dry lubricant, and put it back together. Am I doing something wrong/does anyone have any tips on keeping the grit out?
Re: FRN Grittiness
The blade length may be the culprit here. Shorter blades get the handle closer to the work.
- rabbitanarchy14
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Re: FRN Grittiness
I don't feel you are doing anything wrong bud. But seeing as how it's h1 steel and you use a dry lube, I would just hold the lock open, open the blade halfway and rinse it out.
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Saving for - Lil Native K390, D'allara 3, UTX-70
Instruments- Kimber EVO, SA Hellcat, SW Shield Plus 9
Re: FRN Grittiness
I use a Tasman Salt HB that hasn’t seen a drop of oil in the two plus years I’ve owned it. I use it to clean fish and I’ve dropped it in the surf open and had wave action bury it more than once ... it gets gritty.
We have plenty of water pressure at our taps and I just flush it out at the sink (when I remember) and it always flushes clean. :)
We have plenty of water pressure at our taps and I just flush it out at the sink (when I remember) and it always flushes clean. :)
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Re: FRN Grittiness
Thanks guys. Just tried flushing it out and it worked perfectly.
Re: FRN Grittiness
With my Dragonfly I only end up cutting the odd strap or cutting some plastic wrap on a pallet of building material, but I work with a lot of concrete so the particles of cement dust end up getting into my pocket one way or another and that's where most of the grittiness comes from.
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Re: FRN Grittiness
Honestly i can't think of a way to remedy this if even dry lubricant won't keep grit out of the pivot.
Have you taken the PM2 to work with you?
At that point than the only difference I'd see would involve phosphor bronze washers
Have you taken the PM2 to work with you?
At that point than the only difference I'd see would involve phosphor bronze washers
- lonerider1013
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Re: FRN Grittiness
My dragonfly h1 hasn't had this,but my salt 2 does seem gritty, or at least less smooth. I just assumed it was the lack if washers.
"A fool's blade may be sharper than his brain"
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“Learn to ride a bicycle. You will not regret it if you live." - Mark Twain
- Fred Sanford
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Re: FRN Grittiness
I don't think you're doing anything wrong. I would see what happens if you get a longer knife. Also, no need to take it apart. Either just flush the pivot with some hot water, or some oil (if you want, it's not needed for an FRN Salt with no liners). Salt's are resilient as heck and don't need anything really. Amazing knives.
"I'm calling YOU ugly, I could push your face in some dough and make gorilla cookies." - Fred Sanford
Re: FRN Grittiness
i’ve had this problem with my df2 salt. i want to say “all the time,” but really i just dealt with it for a long time and finally cleaned it out recently. it’s feeling better now, but there’s still a little bit of grit after a couple more days of carry. i only carry the df2 at work, and only as a back up serrated edge, so it doesn’t see much use. i’m guessing it’s more of a pocket lint issue. at any rate, it doesn’t bother me that much, and when i can’t take it anymore, it’s a really easy problem to fix, especially for a salt version.
keep your knife sharp and your focus sharper.
current collection:
C36MCW2, C258YL, C253GBBK, C258GFBL, C101GBBK2, C11GYW, C11FWNB20CV, C101GBN15V2, C101GODFDE2, C60GGY, C149G, C189, C101GBN2, MT35, C211TI, C242CF, C217GSSF, C101BN2, C85G2, C91BBK, C142G, C122GBBK, LBK, LYL3HB, C193, C28YL2, C11ZPGYD, C41YL5, C252G, C130G, PLKIT1
spyderco steels:
H2, CPM 20CV, CPM 15V, CTS 204P, CPM CRUWEAR, CPM S30V, N690Co, M390, CPM MagnaCut, LC200N, CTS XHP, H1, 8Cr13MoV, GIN-1, CTS BD1, VG-10, VG-10/Damascus, 440C
current collection:
C36MCW2, C258YL, C253GBBK, C258GFBL, C101GBBK2, C11GYW, C11FWNB20CV, C101GBN15V2, C101GODFDE2, C60GGY, C149G, C189, C101GBN2, MT35, C211TI, C242CF, C217GSSF, C101BN2, C85G2, C91BBK, C142G, C122GBBK, LBK, LYL3HB, C193, C28YL2, C11ZPGYD, C41YL5, C252G, C130G, PLKIT1
spyderco steels:
H2, CPM 20CV, CPM 15V, CTS 204P, CPM CRUWEAR, CPM S30V, N690Co, M390, CPM MagnaCut, LC200N, CTS XHP, H1, 8Cr13MoV, GIN-1, CTS BD1, VG-10, VG-10/Damascus, 440C
- araneae
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Re: FRN Grittiness
The beauty of H1 is a quick rinse and back in your pocket it happily goes.
So many knives, so few pockets... :)
-Nick
Last in: N5 Magnacut
The "Spirit" of the design does not come through unless used. -Sal
-Nick
Last in: N5 Magnacut
The "Spirit" of the design does not come through unless used. -Sal
Re: FRN Grittiness
A couple things I do to my linerless FRN knives is take out the blade and polish the tang (H1 polishes so easily) and then take some fine sandpaper and knock down all the sharp edges along the inner edge of the handle to make sure there aren't any hard edges to rub the blade during motion. Then I put a little bearing grease on the pivot and they stay silky smooth. I don't get into much gritty/dusty environments but grease in pivots seem to create a barrier to keep crud at away from the pivot. I could also see it holding the crud in place if you do work around sand/dust/gritty environments so I would try just polishing the tang and put it together dry and see how that works.
All SE all the time since 2017
~David
~David
Re: FRN Grittiness
I'd actually been considering this. Sounds like I'll be doing this today. No work until tomorrow, but I'll let you know how it works.Evil D wrote: ↑Sun May 12, 2019 8:09 amA couple things I do to my linerless FRN knives is take out the blade and polish the tang (H1 polishes so easily) and then take some fine sandpaper and knock down all the sharp edges along the inner edge of the handle to make sure there aren't any hard edges to rub the blade during motion. Then I put a little bearing grease on the pivot and they stay silky smooth. I don't get into much gritty/dusty environments but grease in pivots seem to create a barrier to keep crud at away from the pivot. I could also see it holding the crud in place if you do work around sand/dust/gritty environments so I would try just polishing the tang and put it together dry and see how that works.
Re: FRN Grittiness
I had to take apart my spyderhawk yesterday because I went to the beach Saturday. Couldn't rinse the sand out. Sometimes I can get it with some compressed air but this time it wasn't working. Usually I hold the lockbar open and rinse it with water and spray air in it. I passed a towel through the handle slot. Put a few drops of tuf glide after. Working like new.
- steelcity16
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Re: FRN Grittiness
VashHash wrote: ↑Mon May 13, 2019 1:01 pmI had to take apart my spyderhawk yesterday because I went to the beach Saturday. Couldn't rinse the sand out. Sometimes I can get it with some compressed air but this time it wasn't working. Usually I hold the lockbar open and rinse it with water and spray air in it. I passed a towel through the handle slot. Put a few drops of tuf glide after. Working like new.
This is why I strongly prefer screw construction, especially on a Salt model. Hopefully the Manix LW Salt is screw construction if it ever comes out.
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