Given that VG10 / S30V are 100% rustproof enough for me - is there still a reason for LC 200 N?

[SpyderSeth]

I keep my SpydieChef in a leather EDC wallet, with LC200N I don't worry about it.

[SF Native]

This but VG10 can and will react better to a finer grit. LC200N likes it toothy and brown rods will do it justice.

This has been my experience too. I like the toothy edge you can get. Reminds me of XHP in how it takes an edge.

[rabbitanarchy14]

The Salts are designed for folks who live near salt water. If you do not then you may not need that level of corrosion resistance. I personally do not.

I have been less than impressed with the corrosion resistance of S30V. It have had it spot up on me countless times. I wouldn’t bring it to the ocean myself.

I have a little native that is starting to spot small. Is there a way to buff it out.

[cycleguy]

Will this become a one knife offering (LC200N) for all geophraphical environments? Simplifies manufacturing and logistics (maybe). The end user not needing the LC steel paying a little more than otherwise (maybe).

CG

[JD Spydo]

I can say pretty much the same thing. But when you get around salt water or other extremely harsh environments that's when you're going to wish you had knives from the Salt Series with H-1 or LC200N.

Now if you are just stuck with using those VG-10 or S30V knives in corrosive environments then when you are done with them immediately clean them with a solution of Dawn Dish soap and either coat the blades with an oil or use Sentry Solutions TUF CLOTH and you should be OK. I've found VG-10 to be the better of the two in corrosion resistance myself.

[zhyla]

machetes don't spend 16 hours a day in a sweaty pocket. either way most machetes I see are covered in rust :rolleyes:

Check out my Police 4 observations thread. Liners rusted from being in my pocket on a couple of hikes last month. It's a lot more convenient having a knife that doesn't do that.

Exactly, the machetes get rusty but they still work.

Your police 4 rusted the liners but not the blade? That’s a bummer. Definitely rust issues around the pivot and lock are problematic on a folder. Did you oil them at all? I feel like spraying a little lube in there is a step we mostly ignore for knives that are going to see a lot of outdoor use. Like you wouldn’t take a firearm into damp environments without it being oiled up right?

[ferider]

machetes don't spend 16 hours a day in a sweaty pocket. either way most machetes I see are covered in rust :rolleyes:

Check out my Police 4 observations thread. Liners rusted from being in my pocket on a couple of hikes last month. It's a lot more convenient having a knife that doesn't do that.

Exactly, the machetes get rusty but they still work.

Your police 4 rusted the liners but not the blade? That’s a bummer. Definitely rust issues around the pivot and lock are problematic on a folder. Did you oil them at all? I feel like spraying a little lube in there is a step we mostly ignore for knives that are going to see a lot of outdoor use. Like you wouldn’t take a firearm into damp environments without it being oiled up right?

My P4 liners rusted too - all over, not just around the Pivot, and I live in drier climate than Vivi. No other Spyderco has done this for me. I suspect P4 liners are made from different steel than the typical Spyderco liners. Asked the question once (there is a thread somewhere) but couldn't get an answer.

I have 20+ year old Spydercos with clean liners.

Roland.

[Doeswhateveraspidercan]

The Salts are designed for folks who live near salt water. If you do not then you may not need that level of corrosion resistance. I personally do not.

I have been less than impressed with the corrosion resistance of S30V. It have had it spot up on me countless times. I wouldn’t bring it to the ocean myself.

I have a little native that is starting to spot small. Is there a way to buff it out.

Try using barkeepers friend amazing stuff wet a rag and put enough powder on to make a paste and rub it in the direction of the grind lines this should do it.

[bearfacedkiller]

The Salts are designed for folks who live near salt water. If you do not then you may not need that level of corrosion resistance. I personally do not.

I have been less than impressed with the corrosion resistance of S30V. It have had it spot up on me countless times. I wouldn’t bring it to the ocean myself.

I have a little native that is starting to spot small. Is there a way to buff it out.

If it is just starting you can buff it out with any number of products. I actually use a polishing compound designed for cars because I have a big bottle of it but any polishing or buffing compound will work.

[David R]

I really like the edge that LC200N takes. The main advantage for me with the "rust proofs" over "stain-less" is how long I can leave them dirty. I can use them for food prep or as a table knife when I'm not at home and just leave them crusted dirty for a few days until I get around to cleaning them with hot water and soap. Stainless as it is, I wouldn't do that with VG10.

This. I don't need LC200N, but it's very nice to have it for fishing. I usually clean my knife. But in the case where I forget there's too much going on I don't have to worry about it. I prefer a fixed blade when fishing. Fixed gives me one less thing worry about when a fish is flopping around and easier to clean.

[vivi]

machetes don't spend 16 hours a day in a sweaty pocket. either way most machetes I see are covered in rust :rolleyes:

Check out my Police 4 observations thread. Liners rusted from being in my pocket on a couple of hikes last month. It's a lot more convenient having a knife that doesn't do that.

Exactly, the machetes get rusty but they still work.

Your police 4 rusted the liners but not the blade? That’s a bummer. Definitely rust issues around the pivot and lock are problematic on a folder. Did you oil them at all? I feel like spraying a little lube in there is a step we mostly ignore for knives that are going to see a lot of outdoor use. Like you wouldn’t take a firearm into damp environments without it being oiled up right?

I don't want to carry around a pocket knife covered in rust.

It was oiled. Oil gets worn off when you cut things though.

The blade, liners and lock release bar all rusted. Even near the pivot where there was still a visible layer of oil. viewtopic.php?f=2&t=81418&p=1326253#p1326253

Just like people have different desires when it comes to toughness, edge holding and ergonomics, some of us prefer a rust proof or DLC coated knife so we don't have to deal with this.

That is why I bought the Manix XL DLC, because I can carry it all summer without rust.

[zhyla]

The blade, liners and lock release bar all rusted. Even near the pivot where there was still a visible layer of oil.

That's really odd. That backlock rusting against the liner is super bad news. I wonder why the blade didn't have the same problem. I mean... the most obvious explanation is that the liners simply weren't stainless steel. Maybe the wrong steel got used. Or they skipped the passivation step? (if they're passivating) Hopefully Spyderco comments on this.