New PM2 lock stick issue

[neuronic]

So some weeks ago I got my first PM2, a 51200 CF. Right out of the box I noticed that the lock was pretty sticky but not the "jammed" kind of stickiness that releases the lock with a "click", it has more of a very rough, gritty feel all the way, like the contacting surfaces weren't smooth at all.

I thought I'd give it some time, kept flicking it but that gritty feel wouldn't change a bit. I suspected the stop pin maybe contacting the lock proportion of the liner (I read somewhere someone had lock stick issues with the same knife and got rid of it by turning the stop pin) so I took it apart.

Turned out that the stop pin isn't the problem, the lock proportion of the liner moves freely around it (although I wasn't able to turn it since I could not get one of the screws loose).
Two other things I noticed: on the blade tang right behind that little ramp for the detent ball there's a pretty prominent burr and the brim of the liner lock that is contacting the tang is already, well, maybe not chewed up but noticably rough and streaky to say the least.

I tried to take some pics but did not manage to focus decently. I applied a good amount of sharpie and some graphite on both contacting surfaces, reassembled the knife but no improvement whatsoever.

Since I have no experience with a PM2 I cannot tell if this normal or not, especially that burr on the tang and those streaks on the liner.
Thoughts? Thanks!

[neuronic]

This is the best my prehistoric Iphone camera can do, that's the locking portion of the liner with the stop pin after I cleaned it. The rough and streaky area is making contact with the blade tang when the knife is opened and locked.

Didn't get a decent picture of the burr behind the detent ramp.

[Albatross]

I have experienced the sticky lock issue with 2 PM2s this year. One was the S110V version, which cleared up within a few days, and became silky smooth. The other was a CF M4 that took about a week to become smooth. The M4 knife felt gritty, whereas the S110V didn't.

Either way, both were flawless in no time. I did add KPL to both and worked them in a bit while watching TV, to help speed things up.

Sometimes, loosening the stop pin a small amount, will get rid of lock stick or stiff action. Sometimes normal use is required, which seems to be the case for yours.

[youmakemehole]

The lockbar does come in contact with the tang and i'm almost positive that that is 100% your issue right there. It definitely counts as a defect so you should send it in, in the meantime you can also try to take an abrasive to it and see if you can smooth it down to feel normal again, like using either a sharpening stone or diamond/ceramic honing rod. My 52100 was one of the best fit and finish PM2s to date so I'm really sorry yours was less than optimal! Once its resolved I'm sure you will appreciate the advantages of having the CF over the G10 though, everything just feels way more fitted and precise, and the handle has a lot less flex.

[neuronic]

The lockbar does come in contact with the tang and i'm almost positive that that is 100% your issue right there. It definitely counts as a defect so you should send it in, in the meantime you can also try to take an abrasive to it and see if you can smooth it down to feel normal again, like using either a sharpening stone or diamond/ceramic honing rod. My 52100 was one of the best fit and finish PM2s to date so I'm really sorry yours was less than optimal! Once its resolved I'm sure you will appreciate the advantages of having the CF over the G10 though, everything just feels way more fitted and precise, and the handle has a lot less flex.

Thanks, that's what I've heard, too. That's why I wanted this one. But this is rather annoying and if anything it has gotten worse with use.

I'm a bit reluctant though to use abrasives on an integral part of the locking mechanism... the thing is I'm in Germany so sending this in would cost me quite a bit. Man, I was so happy I found one of these... dang

[JonLeBlanc]

I've had PM2 lock stick that was cured with just a very little oil.

[neuronic]

I've had PM2 lock stick that was cured with just a very little oil.

Yeah, unfortunately that didn't work for me...


If I decided to send it in, how exactly does this work? Would I have to cover both sending and returning costs? May there be warranty issues since I took the knife apart for inspection?

[youmakemehole]

I've had PM2 lock stick that was cured with just a very little oil.

Yeah, unfortunately that didn't work for me...


If I decided to send it in, how exactly does this work? Would I have to cover both sending and returning costs? May there be warranty issues since I took the knife apart for inspection?

I'm so sorry to learn about your situation...thats real bummer knowing it was your first PM2 as well! You can try customerservice@spyderco.com, hopefully though, given if everything youre saying seems reasonable, someone from Spyderco will see this soon and reach out to you directly to fix the issue.

I'd be hesitant in grinding down the lockbar too, if you want to be extra careful I'd just do it in a finer grit. Maybe find a stock photo of what the thing looks like next to you while you do it so you dont inadvertently overdo it. Make sure you talk to someone first though since they are known to be quite strict with their warrantee policies. I dont know if they are known to hand out freebies if the knife was taken apart...

[The Mastiff]

Taking a knife apart is one thing. Modifying it is another and for sure will violate warranty if you then have to send it in. I'm always for a break in period before any take down or adjustment is done but that is me and not everybody. I will break in these knives longer than most and have such great luck doing that in over 300 Spyderco's I have yet to have to return one for warranty . The materials are pretty abrasive resistant by design and can take more breaking in than some have patience for.

You should get a knife you are happy with. That is why we buy Spydercos so if you need to send it in do it before you grind, sand, file,stone, de burr etc.

Joe

[JonLeBlanc]

I've had PM2 lock stick that was cured with just a very little oil.

Yeah, unfortunately that didn't work for me...


If I decided to send it in, how exactly does this work? Would I have to cover both sending and returning costs? May there be warranty issues since I took the knife apart for inspection?

That's so unfortunate, because as myself and others have said, that 52100 PM2 really is a stellar example. You shouldn't have any warranty issues but yes I do believe you are responsible for shipping charges. I'd really suggest doing whatever you can to solve the issue and that may involve sending it in if you feel it's necessary, since as of very recently that variant is sold out at retailers. I hope you get it fixed!

[soc_monki]

Looks like it needs a little sanding to make it not stick. My Para 3 looks to have a couple "blobs" of metal on the lock bar, but they are not near the stop pin or blade tang, so they dont affect the action at all so I don't worry about it. I did have some lock stick, but I put a little sharpie marker on the face of the tang and after a couple openings and closings its smooth as glass. a little stick if i flick it hard to open it, but nothing like it was, nothing I can't live with and will probably get even better over time.

Hope you find a solution. I imagine shipping to Colorado would take some time (and cost some money!) Worth it though IMO.

[neuronic]

Well, right now I'm pretty undecided.

I'd rather not keep it the way it performs right now and I'm doubting that more use will cure the issue (I flicked it literally a thousand times up to now and neither this nor applying oil or sharpie or graphite did anything on it, anything at all...).

Sending it in will supposedly cost me a third of what I paid for the knife when I bought it new.
Of course I could just sell it again but actually I don't want to because apart from that lock thing I like it very much...

I'm pretty reluctant to file or sand down the lock face or deburr the tang of the blade. Seems like a last resort.


Could maybe someone post some pictures of the liner lock portion of his PM2 so I could compare it to mine? That would be helpful.
Thanks!

[youmakemehole]

Best I can do for you is this:

https://youtu.be/sta3r7Wyh20?t=130

At 2:10 you get to see the lockbar and I'm sure there are other parts where you can pause to get a look from other angles as well. I can't imagine you needing to file off too much of anything, you arent reshaping the lockbar by any means, just making sure it is smooth and that any burrs from the factory have been eliminated.

[araneae]

Is returning it to the vendor an option? I would echo Joe and say do not modify it if you might return it, you will nullify the warranty, and Spyderco should see how the knife looks when you got it.

[neuronic]

Best I can do for you is this:

https://youtu.be/sta3r7Wyh20?t=130

At 2:10 you get to see the lockbar and I'm sure there are other parts where you can pause to get a look from other angles as well. I can't imagine you needing to file off too much of anything, you arent reshaping the lockbar by any means, just making sure it is smooth and that any burrs from the factory have been eliminated.

Yeah, I know Nicks videos quite well, thanks... actually I re-watched this before I took my knife apart, just to make sure I fully understand the whole procedure.

I just want see if those streaky abrasions and deformations on the lock face portion are kind of normal on a PM2 that has been flicked a couple hundred times or if this just my example.... also I'd like to know wether other blade tangs have that burr behind the detent ramp that mine has. Unfortunately you cannot tell from the video, so I thought I'd ask you guys.

[neuronic]

Is returning it to the vendor an option? I would echo Joe and say do not modify it if you might return it, you will nullify the warranty, and Spyderco should see how the knife looks when you got it.

No, unfortunately that's not an option, I bought this NIB from a collector.

[youmakemehole]

I just want see if those streaky abrasions and deformations on the lock face portion are kind of normal on a PM2 that has been flicked a couple hundred times or if this just my example.... also I'd like to know wether other blade tangs have that burr behind the detent ramp that mine has. Unfortunately you cannot tell from the video, so I thought I'd ask you guys.

I highly doubt it, grittiness, burrs, and rough surfaces - what I believe you are describing and are displaying in your pic – are all signs that indicate a new knife or new knife parts for the most part.