I've been asked by some people to illustrate the modifications I made to eliminate my Ikuchi bites. I'll show you what I did, but don't blame me if you screw something up.
I'm stealing Paul's photo for this description because the Loctite just finished drying on my knife and I really don't want to disassemble it and redo all of that work!
First here is the only tool you need (other than the normal tools to disassemble your knife):
This is a 3mm diamond needle file that can be ordered from Amazon. It was a few dollars for a ten pack.
Now, I first filed a small amount from the choil on the blade (as indicated by the red circle on the RIGHT). This may or may not be necessary. It didn't move the tip downward in any appreciable way and could most likely be omitted as one of the steps.
What I found that lowered the tip and brought the length of the blade fully flush with the scales (and even slightly recessed) was to file material from the track that the pivot control pin rides within (red circle on LEFT). Not the entire track mind you, just where it ends next to the lock bar cutout. Do you see that tiny bit of metal between the end and the space between that metal and the lock bar? That's what I filed, and the amount removed was barely visible (but took quite a bit of effort). Given the size of the file and the small opening of that track, you can't shove it in there very far, so it was a lot of pushing and pulling on the file. Be sure to alternate sides, so your filing is even.
Take it slow and reassemble to check your progress often. I still had plenty of material remaining on that tiny bit of metal when I was satisfied with my results. However, I must have reassembled the knife four or five times before reaching this point. The only way I can have any skin contact the tip now is to jam my pinky in there and slide it towards the tip.
Hope this helps you guys save your fingers! I just couldn't bear the thought of sanding down the needle-like tip of this knife, it's one of its best qualities!
[EDIT: After reviewing the picture I noticed that Paul's example has way less metal between the track and the opening for the lock bar than my example. The extra metal on mine could be the quality control point causing the observed problems I and others are/were experiencing.]
[EDIT #2: Just to clarify, I did not have to make any adjustments to the other scale liner (non-lock bar side).]