WE or KME for Spyderco FFG Blades

[Mako109]

I’ll also say that it is completely possible to get the same results with the KME. It just takes a bit more work doing one side at a time.

I now use the KME after trying every other sharpening system under the sun. However, I still use my Sharpmaker with UF stones to touch-up blades that were profiled on the KME. When I get a new knife, I don't carry it until I've had the chance to sit down and put a mirrored bevel on it using the KME diamond stones and diamond lapping films.

The KME doesn't take twice the work of the WE; it's the same amount of work, it just takes longer because you're doing one side at a time.

One misconception I see about the KME that I see mentioned in this thread is that it is hard to clamp Spyderco's FFG blades and get consistent angles from side to side. This isn't entirely true. I check my angles with a digital angle cube and nine times out of 10 I'm dead on with my first clamping attempt, and it just takes a few seconds to correct any misalignment.

Oh, and I also have had the Spyderco bench stones cut down to fit my KME sharpener (medium, fine, ultra-fine) and I'm anxiously awaiting their arrival!

What made you go with KME over WE? Just curious as I was within a hare's breath of purchasing the WE, but went with a KME instead. Part of my reasoning involved limited work bench space and need for quick set up and take down. My decision to go with KME was also influenced by the positive reviews by several YouTubers including: Nick Shabazz, Birdshot IV, and KnifeKrazy. The later two whom also use the KME professionally. Surprisingly I've managed to produce some highly polished and even edges in a relatively short period of time. However I feel I do have to spend some effort to ensure I clamp the blade in the correct position, constantly check edge angles and constantly check to make sure the system doesn't wobble loose from the base (which it does occasionally). Having never tried the WE I have no reference as to whether WE offers a better experience or it requires relatively the same amount of effort.

[DCJ]

All - Thanks for all of the comments. It's really helpful to read people discussing pros and cons of different systems. As much as I was tempted to go off the deep end and get a WE Pro 3, and decided to go with the basic KME kit, but added the base, the 100/XX Coarse diamond hone, and a strop with the 4 micron CBN emulsion. (I picked up a digital angle cube off Amazon; same one that WE sells.) A big factor was that this system is more compact.
The folks at KME were very helpful in discussing what made sense for my needs. Looking forward to it.

[Larry_Mott]

As far as i am concerned, i simply feel the WE is too expensive. I have the KME, and i can honestly say that if i owned the WE i still would have worked one side at the time to get a good burr, so that argument falls flat for me. Also, to my knowledge, there are at least as many doodads for the KME as there are for WE, and cheaper to boot. I am no WE expert, but i haven't seen a convexing rod/s for it, they are available for the KME..
I have never experienced any difficulty in clamping the blade straight (disclaimer - i dont use laser tools to get 18°0°° )
Also, i have the base plate, but rarely use it since i find it less tiring to hold it by the pistol grip and just work it. The angles aren't affected in any case since they are determined by the rod guide vs the blade, and thus would be the same even if you were sitting upside down :)
I am not saying the KME is the be all end all sharpening system, but based on my own experience i'd dare say it's very hard to beat for the money, and the results for me are flawless.

[Zatx]

What made you go with KME over WE? Just curious as I was within a hare's breath of purchasing the WE, but went with a KME instead. Part of my reasoning involved limited work bench space and need for quick set up and take down. My decision to go with KME was also influenced by the positive reviews by several YouTubers including: Nick Shabazz, Birdshot IV, and KnifeKrazy. The later two whom also use the KME professionally. Surprisingly I've managed to produce some highly polished and even edges in a relatively short period of time. However I feel I do have to spend some effort to ensure I clamp the blade in the correct position, constantly check edge angles and constantly check to make sure the system doesn't wobble loose from the base (which it does occasionally). Having never tried the WE I have no reference as to whether WE offers a better experience or it requires relatively the same amount of effort.

What made me go with the KME? Pretty much everything you have listed here! Haha.

Here are some tips to address the issues you mentioned:

• After you've spent the time to clamp the blade correctly take your sharpie marker (use red not black) and trace around the clamp on both sides of your knife. This mark will help you spot if you've bumped the knife and slightly changed the angle in the clamp.

• Use a good honing oil. I don't know if KME's is any good because I've not tried it; instead, I use Norton's Bench Stone Honing Oil.

• Once you've gotten to the 300 grit stone put your angle cube away. As long as the knife hasn't moved in the clamp (check your marks periodically) your angle isn't going to change enough to affect your bevel. Any variance will be quickly overcome by a few passes of the new grit.

• I experienced the same problem with the base until I applied the Loctite I use on my knives to the threads of the rod. Now, it's locked in place. :)

[cesma]

Tormek t8 with clamp system.

[FullCircleHook]

As far as i am concerned, i simply feel the WE is too expensive. I have the KME, and i can honestly say that if i owned the WE i still would have worked one side at the time to get a good burr, so that argument falls flat for me. Also, to my knowledge, there are at least as many doodads for the KME as there are for WE, and cheaper to boot. I am no WE expert, but i haven't seen a convexing rod/s for it, they are available for the KME..

I will not dispute the expense of the WE; I do wish it was cheaper. Sometimes I wonder if I should have went with the KME because my WE doesn’t get a ton of use. I reprofile with it and then I as well go back to the sharpmaker for maintenance.

In regards to doing one side at a time to achieve a burr, I feel that the WE excels at this. When reprofiling I work both sides until I get close to reaching the apex. After getting close, I will then work one side after another to achieve the burr. I feel working both sides when reprofiling provides more consistency in matching both sides. After getting that burr with the lower grit stones, you can really get through the rest very fast with the WE.

[Larry_Mott]

As far as i am concerned, i simply feel the WE is too expensive. I have the KME, and i can honestly say that if i owned the WE i still would have worked one side at the time to get a good burr, so that argument falls flat for me. Also, to my knowledge, there are at least as many doodads for the KME as there are for WE, and cheaper to boot. I am no WE expert, but i haven't seen a convexing rod/s for it, they are available for the KME..

I will not dispute the expense of the WE; I do wish it was cheaper. Sometimes I wonder if I should have went with the KME because my WE doesn’t get a ton of use. I reprofile with it and then I as well go back to the sharpmaker for maintenance.

In regards to doing one side at a time to achieve a burr, I feel that the WE excels at this. When reprofiling I work both sides until I get close to reaching the apex. After getting close, I will then work one side after another to achieve the burr. I feel working both sides when reprofiling provides more consistency in matching both sides. After getting that burr with the lower grit stones, you can really get through the rest very fast with the WE.

Those are valid points. In fact i go at it the same with the KME when reprofiling, to keep working both sides (as much) equal as possible.

[Mako109]

What made you go with KME over WE? Just curious as I was within a hare's breath of purchasing the WE, but went with a KME instead. Part of my reasoning involved limited work bench space and need for quick set up and take down. My decision to go with KME was also influenced by the positive reviews by several YouTubers including: Nick Shabazz, Birdshot IV, and KnifeKrazy. The later two whom also use the KME professionally. Surprisingly I've managed to produce some highly polished and even edges in a relatively short period of time. However I feel I do have to spend some effort to ensure I clamp the blade in the correct position, constantly check edge angles and constantly check to make sure the system doesn't wobble loose from the base (which it does occasionally). Having never tried the WE I have no reference as to whether WE offers a better experience or it requires relatively the same amount of effort.

What made me go with the KME? Pretty much everything you have listed here! Haha.

Here are some tips to address the issues you mentioned:

• After you've spent the time to clamp the blade correctly take your sharpie marker (use red not black) and trace around the clamp on both sides of your knife. This mark will help you spot if you've bumped the knife and slightly changed the angle in the clamp.

• Use a good honing oil. I don't know if KME's is any good because I've not tried it; instead, I use Norton's Bench Stone Honing Oil.

• Once you've gotten to the 300 grit stone put your angle cube away. As long as the knife hasn't moved in the clamp (check your marks periodically) your angle isn't going to change enough to affect your bevel. Any variance will be quickly overcome by a few passes of the new grit.

• I experienced the same problem with the base until I applied the Loctite I use on my knives to the threads of the rod. Now, it's locked in place. :)

Thank you Zatx, all great tips, especially that last one. Loctite, DOH, why did't I think of that! :)

[cycleguy]

All,

Which sharpening system(s) do you like best for small blade pocket knives ... where maybe the blade is only 1/4" to 3/8" tall from the cutting edge to the blade spine ... like a tradional Stockman folder or small SAK??? Seems these clamps are to bulky to allow a 15 degree bevel per side or less as the blade once clamped doesn't extend much out of the clamp and the stone rides on the end of the clamp and above the blade edge. Maybe you know of some way of getting around this?

CG

[Larry_Mott]

All,

Which sharpening system(s) do you like best for small blade pocket knives ... where maybe the blade is only 1/4" to 3/8" tall from the cutting edge to the blade spine ... like a tradional Stockman folder or small SAK??? Seems these clamps are to bulky to allow a 15 degree bevel per side or less as the blade once clamped doesn't extend much out of the clamp and the stone rides on the end of the clamp and above the blade edge. Maybe you know of some way of getting around this?

CG

I got the pen knife jaws for my KME and sharpened a wee STAG knife without issues. In all honesty i winged the angle, but it got sharp as an eagle's eye! :)