So you have roughly 10% lock play when manipulating the knife in a way that it wasn’t designed for?
You will not get lock play even close to this while using this knife for normal edc tasks or food prep...
If you are using this knife for tougher tasks, you would be gripping it in such a way that would further reinforce the locking mechanism through your grip. This is the beauty of the frame lock.
If the nearly imperceptible lock play ever causes you injury or becomes a safety matter, then complain about it.
Through reading your posts, it sounds like you got bit by another model you owned because you were mis-using it — and bashing the knives somehow makes you feel better about a bad decision you made.
You mentioned that the problems with your spydiechefs weren’t serious enough for you to send them back. You also made it clear that you put your knives to the test and use them as the tools they were created to be. This would indicate that the problem you perceive with the lock play is not a serious issue at all.
Linerlocks/framelocks/compression locks should have zero vertical blade play. Not 10%, not 1%. Zero. If it does it’s out of spec and is useless.
You can get some lockbar travel back by rotating the stop pin but not much.
I've been monitoring this thread to see if anybody from Spyderco answers the question about the treatment and or discoloration on their lockbars.
I recently purchased 2 McBees & on close inspection, I noticed discoloration of the lockbars. I thought it was strange that the contact area was discolored exactly where you would carbidize/carburize , so I checked the other knife and it had it also. I then proceeded to research & found out that Spyderco had said they do not treat these type of locks. Now I'm anxiously awaiting what Spyderco has to say about this...
The sword the body wounds, sharp words the mind.
- Menander :spyder:
Is it possible that the area in question was masked off during the media tumbling? Or bead blasting? Or whatever method is used to achieve the finish on the scales? With such tight manufacturing tolerances, especially from the Taichung maker, I would think that any material at all being removed from the lockbar might affect the integrity of the lockup.
Is it possible that the area in question was masked off during the media tumbling? Or bead blasting? Or whatever method is used to achieve the finish on the scales? With such tight manufacturing tolerances, especially from the Taichung maker, I would think that any material at all being removed from the lockbar might affect the integrity of the lockup.
The end of the lock bar that is not visible when the knife is assembled was protected from the scale finishing process in the same manner as the pivot area, but this does not appear to be the cause of the discoloration.
I've been monitoring this thread to see if anybody from Spyderco answers the question about the treatment and or discoloration on their lockbars.
I recently purchased 2 McBees & on close inspection, I noticed discoloration of the lockbars. I thought it was strange that the contact area was discolored exactly where you would carbidize/carburize , so I checked the other knife and it had it also. I then proceeded to research & found out that Spyderco had said they do not treat these type of locks. Now I'm anxiously awaiting what Spyderco has to say about this...
This is interesting; I didn't expect other models to receive the same treatment. I've got a Mcbee on order, and I should have it next week. I'll take side by side comparison shots of lock bars when I receive it. I'm on my way to pick up a new Techno 2 from UPS right now and I'll include it's lock bar as well.
PS.
CQI stands for Constant Quality Improvement.
If Soyderco isn’t aware that issues like these exist- how can they improve?
And nobody can say that lockbar stability when testing negative pressure should matter in this case. Because it does. We pay premium dollar for a premium product. If knife companies (Spyderco included) can manufactur liner lock and framelock folders that do NOT display lock stability issues on their knives, then why should I not expect the Spydiechefs that I bought with my hard earned money to not display this issue?! Why should the average customer not expect perfection within the realms of reality?! And who out there would want to suggest that these thpe of issues shouldn’t be reported when encountered?!
Again, if it was one out of 10 knives, I may have not mentioned it even. However, I experienced this same issue with all the Taichung liner/framelock knives that I bought over the last few years (even though the sample size is nit tremendous, of course), especially considering the fact hat the last two were of the same model, and displayed two of the same issues (stick and play).
Anyway, I think I’m beating a dead horse here, and I don’t wish this to be viewed as an attempt to highjack the post.
Peace and love to all you forum members,
-Val.
Obviously, I have not seen/held/used your knives, so all of *my* comments are based on my use of Taichung made liner/frame lock knives that I own: GB1, Sage 1, Sage 2, GB Air, Nilakka and Positron.
I think the thing that may be getting some Spy-defenders keyed up is your general implication that Taichung liner/frame locks are substandard...
That view isn't really aligning with what many of us have experienced.
I also think that too many designs are now expected to somehow encompass all the best features possible to put in a knife; the Spydiechef is a cooks' tool which is also capable of EDC tasks, not a combat knife, not a chopper, not a multi-tool. The lock stability required to stab may be a benefit in some designs, but in a sheepsfoot bladed kitchen tool it seems like having a lighter handle and an easily manipulated (and it seems, somewhat flexible) lockbar are better choices.
Personally, I try to avoid putting pressure on the spine of any blade, even fixed blades... the spine-whack test a-la CS is an almost useless metric for me. Like any safety, a knife lock should be viewed as an aid in avoiding injury or accident, not as a foolproof way to make the item completely "safe" ...yes I have used a knife as an awl, also for other inappropriate tasks, I've broken and bent tips. But I also lead with the edge when doing less than advisable things like that, so that the blade isn't inclined to close on my hand... probably a habit that was formed in my early years, when locking knives were no where near as common and most of us carried slip joint jack knives.
Again, not trying to say your experience isn't true or doesn't have value, but I *do* feel like we should have more reasonable expectations of knives that have a design focus like the Spydiechef does...
Lock stability has nothing to do with the knife design’s intended use. It has everything to do with manufacturing quality and tolerances. I thought that was quite common knowledge.
Also, I disagree that the knife was designed to be used in the kitchen. It takes design elements from your average kitchen knife, perhaps (how much exactly is arbitrary).
Furthermore, using this as a reason for a poorly executed lockup is not accceptable. Obviously, it was not meant to be instable by design, I don’t think.
I’ve got a CQI version of the Spydiechef. Received it as a Christmas gift. I believe the manufacturing date is September 2018 (IR). This thread got me curious, so I checked out the end of the lock bar closely and tested for play in the lack bar and detent. Thankfully, there is zero blade play when the lock is engaged, and if there is any play in the detent (not 100%), it’s nearly imperceptible. I also had zero issues with lock stick and there doesn’t appear to be any coating on the end of the lock bar. It did take me some getting used to when I first got it, but I’m able to close it one handed without any issues now. I’m really, really glad I had none of the issues being described here. The Spydiechef is an amazing knife and is my first and only Spyderco. I don’t know that I would have considered purchasing a second if the first one had the issues you guys have mentioned, especially at that price point. It’s more than double the cost of any knife I’ve ever owned previously.
You got yourself a real great knife for a “first Spyderco”.
It’s my favorite EDC folder, and it meets my needs as such.
I love the performance of the steel, and how it feels on the whetstones.
The ergonomics are also great, considering its slender design and ease of carry.
The negative blade angle suits my uses excellently, as I cut plenty of media on top of various cutting surfaces quite often.
I am ambidextrous, and find it real easy to manipulate with either hand, as well.
Really cannot say much negative about the good ol’ Chef, except for the mentioned imperfections.
Luckily, it’s a framelock folder, so in use I am very confident in its ability to stay open and keep my fingers safe.
It really is an amazing knife. I haven’t been able to bring myself to sharpen it yet (Came plenty sharp and has stayed that way.), but I hope I don’t screw it up when I do. I’ve got a guided system, but nothing matches the angles Spyderco uses. I’ve been toying with the idea of grabbing a Sharpmaker or another guided system that has a 40 degree option for the angle.
Spydiechef, Dragonfly Salt 2, Native 5 Salt, Native 5 Cruwear, and Q-ball (Newest Addition)
I’ve got a CQI version of the Spydiechef. Received it as a Christmas gift. I believe the manufacturing date is September 2018 (IR). This thread got me curious, so I checked out the end of the lock bar closely and tested for play in the lack bar and detent. Thankfully, there is zero blade play when the lock is engaged, and if there is any play in the detent (not 100%), it’s nearly imperceptible. I also had zero issues with lock stick and there doesn’t appear to be any coating on the end of the lock bar. It did take me some getting used to when I first got it, but I’m able to close it one handed without any issues now. I’m really, really glad I had none of the issues being described here. The Spydiechef is an amazing knife and is my first and only Spyderco. I don’t know that I would have considered purchasing a second if the first one had the issues you guys have mentioned, especially at that price point. It’s more than double the cost of any knife I’ve ever owned previously.
You got yourself a real great knife for a “first Spyderco”.
It’s my favorite EDC folder, and it meets my needs as such.
I love the performance of the steel, and how it feels on the whetstones.
The ergonomics are also great, considering its slender design and ease of carry.
The negative blade angle suits my uses excellently, as I cut plenty of media on top of various cutting surfaces quite often.
I am ambidextrous, and find it real easy to manipulate with either hand, as well.
Really cannot say much negative about the good ol’ Chef, except for the mentioned imperfections.
Luckily, it’s a framelock folder, so in use I am very confident in its ability to stay open and keep my fingers safe.
It really is an amazing knife. I haven’t been able to bring myself to sharpen it yet (Came plenty sharp and has stayed that way.), but I hope I don’t screw it up when I do. I’ve got a guided system, but nothing matches the angles Spyderco uses. I’ve been toying with the idea of grabbing a Sharpmaker or another guided system that has a 40 degree option for the angle.
I sharpened mine at about 12-13 degrees per side. I like myself a slicing beast.
Is it possible that the area in question was masked off during the media tumbling? Or bead blasting? Or whatever method is used to achieve the finish on the scales? With such tight manufacturing tolerances, especially from the Taichung maker, I would think that any material at all being removed from the lockbar might affect the integrity of the lockup.
The end of the lock bar that is not visible when the knife is assembled was protected from the scale finishing process in the same manner as the pivot area, but this does not appear to be the cause of the discoloration.
Maybe the milling solution cause discoloration on the whole handle, the pivot and lockbar were then masked, then whatever media treatmemt was applied. Leaving the masked areas still discolored. Mine too has the discoloration. But I haven’t taken it apart yet to inspect further. In the meantime, it’s next to me waiting on lunch.
I’ve got a CQI version of the Spydiechef. Received it as a Christmas gift. I believe the manufacturing date is September 2018 (IR). This thread got me curious, so I checked out the end of the lock bar closely and tested for play in the lack bar and detent. Thankfully, there is zero blade play when the lock is engaged, and if there is any play in the detent (not 100%), it’s nearly imperceptible. I also had zero issues with lock stick and there doesn’t appear to be any coating on the end of the lock bar. It did take me some getting used to when I first got it, but I’m able to close it one handed without any issues now. I’m really, really glad I had none of the issues being described here. The Spydiechef is an amazing knife and is my first and only Spyderco. I don’t know that I would have considered purchasing a second if the first one had the issues you guys have mentioned, especially at that price point. It’s more than double the cost of any knife I’ve ever owned previously.
You got yourself a real great knife for a “first Spyderco”.
It’s my favorite EDC folder, and it meets my needs as such.
I love the performance of the steel, and how it feels on the whetstones.
The ergonomics are also great, considering its slender design and ease of carry.
The negative blade angle suits my uses excellently, as I cut plenty of media on top of various cutting surfaces quite often.
I am ambidextrous, and find it real easy to manipulate with either hand, as well.
Really cannot say much negative about the good ol’ Chef, except for the mentioned imperfections.
Luckily, it’s a framelock folder, so in use I am very confident in its ability to stay open and keep my fingers safe.
It really is an amazing knife. I haven’t been able to bring myself to sharpen it yet (Came plenty sharp and has stayed that way.), but I hope I don’t screw it up when I do. I’ve got a guided system, but nothing matches the angles Spyderco uses. I’ve been toying with the idea of grabbing a Sharpmaker or another guided system that has a 40 degree option for the angle.
I sharpened mine at about 12-13 degrees per side. I like myself a slicing beast.
Did you use a Hapstone Sharpener? and an angle cube to get it that low? I am still taking a military down to 10 degrees a little at a time as a long term project with the Hapstone giving it a Scandi grind. S90V takes a while :)
Why does it matter? let conversation flow the way it will, usually more informative that way and it does not look like Spyderco intends to respond here until they have completed their findings.
Why does it matter? let conversation flow the way it will, usually more informative that way and it does not look like Spyderco intends to respond here until they have completed their findings.
That is the biggest reason, because the "information" being shared is all speculation until we get a response.
Why does it matter? let conversation flow the way it will, usually more informative that way and it does not look like Spyderco intends to respond here until they have completed their findings.
That is the biggest reason, because the "information" being shared is all speculation until we get a response.
Yep but I am interested in how others are sharpening down into low angles as well.
I'd love to hear if others who just received the newest iteration of the knife this week see the same thing.
Got the SC from SFO (thank you for fast service ) yesterday and everything is in order. Centered, clean bevels, ceramic detent ball, good lockup (70-80%) and smooth action. The code on the box is AS!
Just broke the knife down and examined the end of the lock bar. This example has a clean line (I think someone earlier in thread talked about a tape line ) where the very end was deliberately covered before the scale was finished with bead blast /Stonewashed!?! The last portion looks like every other non finished titanium( flamed) on my Motorcross or DH mountain bike.
I'd love to hear if others who just received the newest iteration of the knife this week see the same thing.
Got the SC from SFO (thank you for fast service ) yesterday and everything is in order. Centered, clean bevels, ceramic detent ball, good lockup (70-80%) and smooth action. The code on the box is AS!
Just broke the knife down and examined the end of the lock bar. This example has a clean line (I think someone earlier in thread talked about a tape line ) where the very end was deliberately covered before the scale was finished with bead blast /Stonewashed!?! The last portion looks like every other non finished titanium( flamed) on my Motorcross or DH mountain bike.
Hope this helps.....
James
Your lock face has the identical bronze coating as found in the first picture on this thread.
I am the proud owner of a 2nd gen, Ceramic Ball detent CQI Chef and I have not experienced the problems expressed in this forum.
My knife has minor lockstick at times, but it can be disengaged one handed after manual open or flicking. It also has absolutely no blade play and
is probably my most sold lockup folder I own. However, I have not taken it a part yet so I cannot comment on discoloration of the frame lock. I definitely didn't experiencing anything "Rubbing off", or "Falling out" of the lock with use.
Only thing my chef has is a rattle in the lanyard tube, it's slightly annoying but nothing to trip about.
