I believe in that other thread I posted a book on removing the burr that was written by a gentleman who used rigorous scientific research and an electron scanning microscope to determine what works best to remove a burr (http://knifegrinders.com.au/Manuals/Kni
... g_book.pdf). His findings indicated that the only way to remove a burr from modern super-steels is using a low-speed grinder, hard felt disk, and .5 micron diamond powder.
The main thing he proved is that diamond is the only thing hard enough to remove the microscopic foil or wire type burr. Leather doesn't do it; green strops don't do it, ceramic stones can't do it; they simply aren't sharp/hard enough. What stropping does with these lesser media is hone the steel surrounding the harder carbides in the matrix, leaving the burr behind. Oh, yes, you will undoubtedly get very sharp blades using these other techniques, but an edge with zero burr will be sharper and last much much longer than one with even a microscopic burr.
Well, I don't have the grinder or felt pad, so I adapted his technique utilizing the tools I have available. Using a piece of the hardest balsa wood I could find I made a strop utilizing a mixture of .5 and 1.0-micron diamond paste. I uniformly spread the paste on the wood then used a heat gun to dry the oil from the compound. So, what I do is take a freshly sharpened knife and examine the burr under a 120x microscope. No matter how much care I take to keep this burr as small as possible while sharpening, there is always one present if I'm hitting the apex at all. I then strop the knife once or twice using light to medium pressure at the same angle of sharpening on the side that has the least burr and examine it again under the microscope. If the light drops entirely off of the edge, the burr is gone (at least to the level I can see at this magnification). I then switch sides and strop a couple of times then inspect and repeat this process until the burr is gone. Flip the knife one more time to make sure I didn't create a burr on the opposite side and then stop. If you overstrop, you'll round the apex and slightly dull the edge, though at this microscopic level you probably won't be able to notice this by feel.
I've now used two very different sharpening systems (Sharpmaker and Ken Onion Blade Grinder) to reprofile and sharpen identical PM2's. The Sharpmaker creates a very flat bevel, and the Ken Onion makes the bevel more convex, but this technique produced similar results... an extraordinarily sharp and durable edge that was burr free at least at 120x magnification.
Understand, that my technique will not produce an edge that is quite as durable as the grinder/felt pad technique because the research showed that there was some work hardening that occurred by the speed and vibration of the felt pad, but the edge will still be more durable than an edge with a burr.