Maintaining pm 2 s110v edge with sharp maker
Re: Maintaining pm 2 s110v edge with sharp maker
I wonder what happened to that guy that was on here a month or two ago. Had the PM2 and Military in s110v and posted something about them every day. Haven't seen him in a bit..tpps or something like that was his username
15
's in 10 different steels
1 - Bradford Guardian 3 / Vanadis 4E Wharnie
1 - Monterey Bay Knives Slayback Flipper / ZDP 189
1 - CRK Small Sebenza 31/Macassar Ebony Inlays
1 - CRK Large Inkosi Insingo/ Black Micarta Inlays
1 - CRK Small Sebenza 31 Insingo/Magnacut
-Rick
![spyderco bug 2 :bug-red](./images/smilies/bug-red.png)
1 - Bradford Guardian 3 / Vanadis 4E Wharnie
1 - Monterey Bay Knives Slayback Flipper / ZDP 189
1 - CRK Small Sebenza 31/Macassar Ebony Inlays
1 - CRK Large Inkosi Insingo/ Black Micarta Inlays
1 - CRK Small Sebenza 31 Insingo/Magnacut
-Rick
Re: Maintaining pm 2 s110v edge with sharp maker
I've had both those models and I've sharpened on a brown rod for the sharpmaker... but it was freehand. I've never used a sharpmaker, so as well as I feel I understand it I'd still be speaking from a standpoint of ignorance if I commented.
-
- Member
- Posts: 83
- Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2015 9:56 pm
Re: Maintaining pm 2 s110v edge with sharp maker
How many times can s110v be touched up with your method (I've used the same for a while) before a full re-sharpening is worth it.Ankerson wrote: ↑Tue Dec 25, 2018 8:31 amDanvp wrote: ↑Tue Dec 25, 2018 4:58 amGenogt, s110v is easy to maintain with a sharpmaker. However, as DBCOOPER mentioned, when the edge exceeds 40 degrees inclusive or more precisely is not exactly 30 or 40 degrees inclusive, you will not hit the edge directly. In that case you are likely to think that the sharpmaker is not able to maintain s110v.
Ankerson, how do i check for a burr after just 3 passes? I would like to up my sharpening skills. Now i can only feel it when a substantial burr has been formed.
I use my thumb, always done it that way, you can feel it if you run your thumb across the edge, that's from the spine across the edge.
All you need to do is raise a slight bur, then do the other side of the blade and do the same, then remove it with a light pass or two.
Been doing it this way for decades on touchups with ceramics.
It's very quick once you get the hang of it and the steel doesn't matter.
I do s30v and ZDP 3-5 times before I work the bevels.
Thanks
Re: Maintaining pm 2 s110v edge with sharp maker
Using ceramics?navin johnson wrote: ↑Thu Dec 27, 2018 6:58 pmHow many times can s110v be touched up with your method (I've used the same for a while) before a full re-sharpening is worth it.Ankerson wrote: ↑Tue Dec 25, 2018 8:31 amDanvp wrote: ↑Tue Dec 25, 2018 4:58 amGenogt, s110v is easy to maintain with a sharpmaker. However, as DBCOOPER mentioned, when the edge exceeds 40 degrees inclusive or more precisely is not exactly 30 or 40 degrees inclusive, you will not hit the edge directly. In that case you are likely to think that the sharpmaker is not able to maintain s110v.
Ankerson, how do i check for a burr after just 3 passes? I would like to up my sharpening skills. Now i can only feel it when a substantial burr has been formed.
I use my thumb, always done it that way, you can feel it if you run your thumb across the edge, that's from the spine across the edge.
All you need to do is raise a slight bur, then do the other side of the blade and do the same, then remove it with a light pass or two.
Been doing it this way for decades on touchups with ceramics.
It's very quick once you get the hang of it and the steel doesn't matter.
I do s30v and ZDP 3-5 times before I work the bevels.
Thanks
A whole lot of times as hardly any steel is removed.
Re: Maintaining pm 2 s110v edge with sharp maker
This is the smarter way to sharpen IMO. If you don't raise a burr, you don't have to waste the time and steel it takes to remove it.
The corners are good for recurves and serrated edges, otherwise I stick to flats. They work faster (more surface area) and give a better edge (same pressure spread over a wider portion of blade means less stress applied to the apex).
![unicorn :unicorn](./images/smilies/unicorn.png)
Re: Maintaining pm 2 s110v edge with sharp maker
Vivi wrote: ↑Thu Dec 27, 2018 8:26 pmThis is the smarter way to sharpen IMO. If you don't raise a burr, you don't have to waste the time and steel it takes to remove it.
The corners are good for recurves and serrated edges, otherwise I stick to flats. They work faster (more surface area) and give a better edge (same pressure spread over a wider portion of blade means less stress applied to the apex).
I don't think 30 secs is very long doing it my way?
-
- Member
- Posts: 83
- Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2015 9:56 pm
Re: Maintaining pm 2 s110v edge with sharp maker
Brown corners. Many seem to believe it puts too much stress on the edge to use the corners. It has always been my quick and dirty way to put a edge back on. I'm guessing once you cut the burr off you have unstressed steel.Ankerson wrote: ↑Thu Dec 27, 2018 7:04 pmUsing ceramics?navin johnson wrote: ↑Thu Dec 27, 2018 6:58 pmHow many times can s110v be touched up with your method (I've used the same for a while) before a full re-sharpening is worth it.Ankerson wrote: ↑Tue Dec 25, 2018 8:31 amDanvp wrote: ↑Tue Dec 25, 2018 4:58 amGenogt, s110v is easy to maintain with a sharpmaker. However, as DBCOOPER mentioned, when the edge exceeds 40 degrees inclusive or more precisely is not exactly 30 or 40 degrees inclusive, you will not hit the edge directly. In that case you are likely to think that the sharpmaker is not able to maintain s110v.
Ankerson, how do i check for a burr after just 3 passes? I would like to up my sharpening skills. Now i can only feel it when a substantial burr has been formed.
I use my thumb, always done it that way, you can feel it if you run your thumb across the edge, that's from the spine across the edge.
All you need to do is raise a slight bur, then do the other side of the blade and do the same, then remove it with a light pass or two.
Been doing it this way for decades on touchups with ceramics.
It's very quick once you get the hang of it and the steel doesn't matter.
I do s30v and ZDP 3-5 times before I work the bevels.
Thanks
A whole lot of times as hardly any steel is removed.
Re: Maintaining pm 2 s110v edge with sharp maker
YUP, and it's not a big bur either, you can barely feel it.navin johnson wrote: ↑Thu Dec 27, 2018 8:59 pmBrown corners. Many seem to believe it puts too much stress on the edge to use the corners. It has always been my quick and dirty way to put a edge back on. I'm guessing once you cut the burr off you have unstressed steel.Ankerson wrote: ↑Thu Dec 27, 2018 7:04 pmUsing ceramics?navin johnson wrote: ↑Thu Dec 27, 2018 6:58 pmHow many times can s110v be touched up with your method (I've used the same for a while) before a full re-sharpening is worth it.Ankerson wrote: ↑Tue Dec 25, 2018 8:31 am
I use my thumb, always done it that way, you can feel it if you run your thumb across the edge, that's from the spine across the edge.
All you need to do is raise a slight bur, then do the other side of the blade and do the same, then remove it with a light pass or two.
Been doing it this way for decades on touchups with ceramics.
It's very quick once you get the hang of it and the steel doesn't matter.
I do s30v and ZDP 3-5 times before I work the bevels.
Thanks
A whole lot of times as hardly any steel is removed.
Re: Maintaining pm 2 s110v edge with sharp maker
30 seconds is longer than 15 :)Ankerson wrote: ↑Thu Dec 27, 2018 8:30 pmVivi wrote: ↑Thu Dec 27, 2018 8:26 pmThis is the smarter way to sharpen IMO. If you don't raise a burr, you don't have to waste the time and steel it takes to remove it.
The corners are good for recurves and serrated edges, otherwise I stick to flats. They work faster (more surface area) and give a better edge (same pressure spread over a wider portion of blade means less stress applied to the apex).
I don't think 30 secs is very long doing it my way?
It's more about the quality of the edge I can get than the time it takes.
The corners of the rods mean you're exerting all the force you apply while sharpening on a very small piece of the apex, only about 1mm. The flats let you apply that same force to about 1cm of apex. Spyderco bench stones let you apply that force to 2".
The apex is a very, very thin strip of steel. The less force you apply to it, the better your edges will be. You can reduce the amount of force on the apex by using a light touch and using the widest stones that you can obtain.
It also makes it much easier to avoid raising a burr.
![unicorn :unicorn](./images/smilies/unicorn.png)
Re: Maintaining pm 2 s110v edge with sharp maker
The experience I have as compared to other in this thread and forum is miniscul, so I'm no end all be all and I at times struggle to even get that razor edge, (tho I'm getting better). I generally avoid the burr as when I get one I at times struggle to remove it haha then I have to sharpen for 5 minutes instead of 30 seconds unfortunately
I came here to cut sh#$ with my knives and chew bubblegum, and I'm all out of bubblegum
Re: Maintaining pm 2 s110v edge with sharp maker
Hey I've read your tests quite a bit, and I was wondering when you sharpen to a 400 grit, do you get a razor sharp toothy edge? Or is it just a granny really close to sharp edge? As I haven't been able to obtain that razor sharpness off 400 gritAnkerson wrote: ↑Tue Dec 25, 2018 12:08 amGenogt wrote: ↑Sun Dec 23, 2018 11:39 amWill a spyderco sharp maker maintain a edge on a spyderco paramilitary 2 s110v edge? Keeping in mind i just use knifes on simpler tasks i dont process cardboard all day. Maybe on ocation i might cut a bit of cardboard and open packages of coffee beans mostly when i use a knife. Would apreciate your thoughts also id like to know can you store as it is out of the box without takeing extra steps if you dont plan to use it for a good while. Just looking for info on those two points.
Yes, use the brown stones (Corners), only takes a few passes on each side to touch it up.
Do one side at a time, like 2 or 3 passes check for a bur, then the other side 2 or 3 passes check for a bur.
Remove the bur with a light pass or 2 and your done.
Takes like 30 secs.
So I'm mostly asking if my technique is off?
I came here to cut sh#$ with my knives and chew bubblegum, and I'm all out of bubblegum
Re: Maintaining pm 2 s110v edge with sharp maker
If you touch up daily, or every other day with moderate use would you always be able to do so and never have to raise or bur? Especially if the knife is used in rotation with others and not a daily user?
15
's in 10 different steels
1 - Bradford Guardian 3 / Vanadis 4E Wharnie
1 - Monterey Bay Knives Slayback Flipper / ZDP 189
1 - CRK Small Sebenza 31/Macassar Ebony Inlays
1 - CRK Large Inkosi Insingo/ Black Micarta Inlays
1 - CRK Small Sebenza 31 Insingo/Magnacut
-Rick
![spyderco bug 2 :bug-red](./images/smilies/bug-red.png)
1 - Bradford Guardian 3 / Vanadis 4E Wharnie
1 - Monterey Bay Knives Slayback Flipper / ZDP 189
1 - CRK Small Sebenza 31/Macassar Ebony Inlays
1 - CRK Large Inkosi Insingo/ Black Micarta Inlays
1 - CRK Small Sebenza 31 Insingo/Magnacut
-Rick
Re: Maintaining pm 2 s110v edge with sharp maker
It's screaming sharp, hair whittling edge.DBCOOPER wrote: ↑Fri Dec 28, 2018 10:18 amHey I've read your tests quite a bit, and I was wondering when you sharpen to a 400 grit, do you get a razor sharp toothy edge? Or is it just a granny really close to sharp edge? As I haven't been able to obtain that razor sharpness off 400 gritAnkerson wrote: ↑Tue Dec 25, 2018 12:08 amGenogt wrote: ↑Sun Dec 23, 2018 11:39 amWill a spyderco sharp maker maintain a edge on a spyderco paramilitary 2 s110v edge? Keeping in mind i just use knifes on simpler tasks i dont process cardboard all day. Maybe on ocation i might cut a bit of cardboard and open packages of coffee beans mostly when i use a knife. Would apreciate your thoughts also id like to know can you store as it is out of the box without takeing extra steps if you dont plan to use it for a good while. Just looking for info on those two points.
Yes, use the brown stones (Corners), only takes a few passes on each side to touch it up.
Do one side at a time, like 2 or 3 passes check for a bur, then the other side 2 or 3 passes check for a bur.
Remove the bur with a light pass or 2 and your done.
Takes like 30 secs.
So I'm mostly asking if my technique is off?
Re: Maintaining pm 2 s110v edge with sharp maker
I had a feeling you were going to say that haha, I have some practicing to doAnkerson wrote: ↑Fri Dec 28, 2018 10:29 amIt's screaming sharp, hair whittling edge.DBCOOPER wrote: ↑Fri Dec 28, 2018 10:18 amHey I've read your tests quite a bit, and I was wondering when you sharpen to a 400 grit, do you get a razor sharp toothy edge? Or is it just a granny really close to sharp edge? As I haven't been able to obtain that razor sharpness off 400 gritAnkerson wrote: ↑Tue Dec 25, 2018 12:08 amGenogt wrote: ↑Sun Dec 23, 2018 11:39 amWill a spyderco sharp maker maintain a edge on a spyderco paramilitary 2 s110v edge? Keeping in mind i just use knifes on simpler tasks i dont process cardboard all day. Maybe on ocation i might cut a bit of cardboard and open packages of coffee beans mostly when i use a knife. Would apreciate your thoughts also id like to know can you store as it is out of the box without takeing extra steps if you dont plan to use it for a good while. Just looking for info on those two points.
Yes, use the brown stones (Corners), only takes a few passes on each side to touch it up.
Do one side at a time, like 2 or 3 passes check for a bur, then the other side 2 or 3 passes check for a bur.
Remove the bur with a light pass or 2 and your done.
Takes like 30 secs.
So I'm mostly asking if my technique is off?
I came here to cut sh#$ with my knives and chew bubblegum, and I'm all out of bubblegum
Re: Maintaining pm 2 s110v edge with sharp maker
I actually use the Sharpmaker rods handheld to sharpen my Blurple Para 2 regularly. It loves the slight touch ups on the UF rod. Hair popping.
Re: Maintaining pm 2 s110v edge with sharp maker
One of the best decisions I ever made in regards to sharpening was to go to lower grit finishes. Learning how to get shaving sharpness off your coarse stones is a great skill to have.DBCOOPER wrote: ↑Fri Dec 28, 2018 10:55 amI had a feeling you were going to say that haha, I have some practicing to doAnkerson wrote: ↑Fri Dec 28, 2018 10:29 amIt's screaming sharp, hair whittling edge.DBCOOPER wrote: ↑Fri Dec 28, 2018 10:18 amHey I've read your tests quite a bit, and I was wondering when you sharpen to a 400 grit, do you get a razor sharp toothy edge? Or is it just a granny really close to sharp edge? As I haven't been able to obtain that razor sharpness off 400 gritAnkerson wrote: ↑Tue Dec 25, 2018 12:08 am
Yes, use the brown stones (Corners), only takes a few passes on each side to touch it up.
Do one side at a time, like 2 or 3 passes check for a bur, then the other side 2 or 3 passes check for a bur.
Remove the bur with a light pass or 2 and your done.
Takes like 30 secs.
So I'm mostly asking if my technique is off?
I've found my EDC knives hold an edge longer than they did with more polished edges, and they cut better too. They grab the material better and slice more aggressively.
I still run polished edges on a few specific knives where I feel it makes sense, like my chef knife and whittlers, but most my knives get finished on Spydercos medium bench stone these days.
![unicorn :unicorn](./images/smilies/unicorn.png)
Re: Maintaining pm 2 s110v edge with sharp maker
S110V is pretty tricky to sharpen, and get a extremely sharp edge. I could always get it pretty sharp, but it took a lot of practice to get it hair whittling, or hair popping sharp. But, It is easy to maintain once you learn the steel. I reprofile and sharpen on a wicked edge. But I really no longer need to use diamonds on S110V very often.
I have not reprofiled S110V in a little while, as it is really not necessarily. I can maintain S110V with strictly leather paddles.
I touch the edge up with leather strops only with my wicked edge. It takes about 10 minutes to do it. Even if the knife was just barely sharp, stropping that edge with good pressure will create such a sharp edge it is ridiculous. It is hair popping. And it stays that way a while. My edges have become slightly polished. But it is crazy sticky sharp!
If I can maintain S110V with leather, I’m sure the sharpmaker will be fine. I’ve always found with S110V.
![Image](https://i.ibb.co/VHPgJXW/B304-ADD0-023-B-4-ECB-BC4-D-C9-E6-BF6-D242-B.jpg)
![Image](https://i.ibb.co/nbgnVnY/0172-D027-3-DC1-4-AD0-9809-6-AA968-F44-D27.jpg)
I have not reprofiled S110V in a little while, as it is really not necessarily. I can maintain S110V with strictly leather paddles.
I touch the edge up with leather strops only with my wicked edge. It takes about 10 minutes to do it. Even if the knife was just barely sharp, stropping that edge with good pressure will create such a sharp edge it is ridiculous. It is hair popping. And it stays that way a while. My edges have become slightly polished. But it is crazy sticky sharp!
If I can maintain S110V with leather, I’m sure the sharpmaker will be fine. I’ve always found with S110V.
![Image](https://i.ibb.co/VHPgJXW/B304-ADD0-023-B-4-ECB-BC4-D-C9-E6-BF6-D242-B.jpg)
![Image](https://i.ibb.co/nbgnVnY/0172-D027-3-DC1-4-AD0-9809-6-AA968-F44-D27.jpg)
Last edited by tps3443 on Sat Dec 29, 2018 1:43 pm, edited 2 times in total.
“My daily razor blade”
Microtech Stitch CTS-204P stonewashed blade
Microtech Dirac Delta CTS-204P Black DLC
^Wicked Edge guided system^
Microtech Stitch CTS-204P stonewashed blade
Microtech Dirac Delta CTS-204P Black DLC
^Wicked Edge guided system^
Re: Maintaining pm 2 s110v edge with sharp maker
I have not sharpened my PM2 in a little while. I don’t know how long it’s been. Maybe 3 weeks. It is still very sharp. And I will just strop it with diamond loaded leather 10/14 micron probably today. You’ve got to use some decent pressure, and after about 30 passes each side, it becomes crazy razor sharp.
It took me a little while to really learn S110V. But it’s an incredible steel.
You will enjoy it, once you’ve gotten down the technique to easily bring back that razor edge. And it holds that shaving edge for... well, a while!
![Image](https://i.ibb.co/6Rbvqh5/29398115-E232-41-F4-A5-BD-BC51-BCB8-A59-A.jpg)
![Image](https://i.ibb.co/gjk4FLx/4-E8-A0120-32-BD-4-BF0-BB18-FD870-B398-CB9.jpg)
![Image](https://i.ibb.co/rbq2Ksg/6-FE90603-86-B2-4-D22-B326-D5-E024-A380-F7.jpg)
It took me a little while to really learn S110V. But it’s an incredible steel.
You will enjoy it, once you’ve gotten down the technique to easily bring back that razor edge. And it holds that shaving edge for... well, a while!
![Image](https://i.ibb.co/6Rbvqh5/29398115-E232-41-F4-A5-BD-BC51-BCB8-A59-A.jpg)
![Image](https://i.ibb.co/gjk4FLx/4-E8-A0120-32-BD-4-BF0-BB18-FD870-B398-CB9.jpg)
![Image](https://i.ibb.co/rbq2Ksg/6-FE90603-86-B2-4-D22-B326-D5-E024-A380-F7.jpg)
“My daily razor blade”
Microtech Stitch CTS-204P stonewashed blade
Microtech Dirac Delta CTS-204P Black DLC
^Wicked Edge guided system^
Microtech Stitch CTS-204P stonewashed blade
Microtech Dirac Delta CTS-204P Black DLC
^Wicked Edge guided system^
Re: Maintaining pm 2 s110v edge with sharp maker
“My daily razor blade”
Microtech Stitch CTS-204P stonewashed blade
Microtech Dirac Delta CTS-204P Black DLC
^Wicked Edge guided system^
Microtech Stitch CTS-204P stonewashed blade
Microtech Dirac Delta CTS-204P Black DLC
^Wicked Edge guided system^
Re: Maintaining pm 2 s110v edge with sharp maker
Do you think it's possible with lower grit diamonds?Vivi wrote: ↑Sat Dec 29, 2018 12:39 pmOne of the best decisions I ever made in regards to sharpening was to go to lower grit finishes. Learning how to get shaving sharpness off your coarse stones is a great skill to have.DBCOOPER wrote: ↑Fri Dec 28, 2018 10:55 amI had a feeling you were going to say that haha, I have some practicing to doAnkerson wrote: ↑Fri Dec 28, 2018 10:29 amIt's screaming sharp, hair whittling edge.DBCOOPER wrote: ↑Fri Dec 28, 2018 10:18 am
Hey I've read your tests quite a bit, and I was wondering when you sharpen to a 400 grit, do you get a razor sharp toothy edge? Or is it just a granny really close to sharp edge? As I haven't been able to obtain that razor sharpness off 400 grit
So I'm mostly asking if my technique is off?
I've found my EDC knives hold an edge longer than they did with more polished edges, and they cut better too. They grab the material better and slice more aggressively.
I still run polished edges on a few specific knives where I feel it makes sense, like my chef knife and whittlers, but most my knives get finished on Spydercos medium bench stone these days.
What grit do you think Spyderco medium bench stones are?
I came here to cut sh#$ with my knives and chew bubblegum, and I'm all out of bubblegum