Can't go wrong with the advice here, but I'll throw in mine.
The smith's diamond stone will wear out quickly sharpening high alloy steel. It'll handle s30v fine for a few months and begin to slow down. Something like s90v will wear it out noticeably sooner. Of course this all depends on how often you sharpen but if you're getting into spyderco, you're probably going to end up owning some models in carbide rich steels.
Right now I own the $35 DMT stones in XC (220), C (325), F (600), AND EF (1200). They are a good value and last a long time for the price, but there are better options. I second the atoma 400 plate. This may be my next purchase when my DMT's wear out or I just feel like spending more. The Atoma has a much more uniform distribution of diamonds on it compared to the DMT, which are hit and miss (trust me, DMT works fine, but if you're an edge snob, the Atoma leaves a more uniform scratch pattern). This means it's a better choice for flattening/resurfacing stones as well. It also cuts very quickly, which is good imo. The Atoma 400 plate will absolutely take care of all your needs regarding rough work, fast/coarse sharpening, and re-profiling. If all I had was s110v I could get by with the Atoma 400 and a strop alone.
You'll need something finer, in the 800/1000 range. I recommend a CBN or diamond waterstone. Deadboxhero's Naniwa suggestion is a good one. I would personally go with a Venev to save money. But more and more products are coming out so there are lots of options. You will be using this more than the 400 grit plate, so a waterstone makes sense, as instead of wearing out, it wears away, constantly releasing fresh abrasive. You do not want to get an extremely cheap stone in this grit range, make sure it has good reviews.
For strops, I'd recommend a flat piece of basswood loaded with 3-5 micron diamond spray or compound. This is for burr removal, something that takes a while for a beginner to fully grasp. I like to additionally load my burr removal strops with diamond powder for fast cutting (which means less stropping). The better you get with your stones, the less stropping you'll need. A wood strop is more forgiving than leather in several ways. It's simpler, as you just use the same exact angle in which you were using on the stones. You're also able to apply some extra pressure, since the wood does not give or press down (like leather), you don't risk rounding off your apex.
I'd also get a 1 micron strop on leather. This will be your finisher. Very light passes, using an angle ever-so-slightly more shallow than the angle you used on the stones. A 1 micron strop, used properly, will take most knives to hair-whittling sharpness well before the scratch pattern from your previous stone is removed.
Maybe this would run you about $200ish (atoma, venev, 2 cheap strops), but you'd be absolutely set for a long time with very high quality products. If you want to put very fine edges on your knives, you will want at least one additional stone and an additional strop, probably a 2000 grit, a spyderco ultra fine, and a 0.25 micron strop. Strops are cheap. But you will be fine without all that.
Pancake wrote: ↑
Wed Aug 14, 2019 10:20 pm
Are you a magician?
Nate wrote: ↑
Thu Apr 04, 2019 4:32 pm
You're the lone wolf of truth howling into the winds of ignorance