I've been having difficulty getting my khukuri sharp, are there any particular tips or tricks to the recurved part of the blade shape?
I have been working with the sharpmaker on this one, and will admit it could simply be lack of practice (got spoiled by a we system) combined with over thinking and not enough doing.
Sharpening of khukuri, s, hawkbills, etc
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silvershade255
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Sharpening of khukuri, s, hawkbills, etc
"Seven for One"
Re: Sharpening of khukuri, s, hawkbills, etc
Spyderco kukri folder, or a full sized chopper?
For a small folder, I'd use the sharpmaker rods corners at either setting with the coarest rods you have. Start at 15 and if it isn't hitting the edge, 20 should do it. On PE you'll typically want to follow the curve of the blade, on Spydercos SE knives hold the knife parallel to the ground as all the serrations are ground at that angle rather than curving with the blade shape.
For hawkbillsx recurves etc., you'll want to always avoid going all the way to the tip. Finish just shy of it, because you do not want to drag it off the corner of the rod and dull it. You can go back over that last bit of edge freehand once the rest of the edge is sharp.
For a large chopping kukri, I sharpen them like anything else. Extra course DMT stone with regular motions, ignoring the part of the edge behind the recurve. If I want that first part of the edge sharp, I do the same thing in front of the recurve, then use sandpaper wrapped around a dowel or my sharpmaker to get the curved area sharp. I've found on a large blade like that its much faster to use my DMT stones where I can, then blend in the edge with some sort of abrasive rod, rather than doing the entire edge at once with a rod.
For a small folder, I'd use the sharpmaker rods corners at either setting with the coarest rods you have. Start at 15 and if it isn't hitting the edge, 20 should do it. On PE you'll typically want to follow the curve of the blade, on Spydercos SE knives hold the knife parallel to the ground as all the serrations are ground at that angle rather than curving with the blade shape.
For hawkbillsx recurves etc., you'll want to always avoid going all the way to the tip. Finish just shy of it, because you do not want to drag it off the corner of the rod and dull it. You can go back over that last bit of edge freehand once the rest of the edge is sharp.
For a large chopping kukri, I sharpen them like anything else. Extra course DMT stone with regular motions, ignoring the part of the edge behind the recurve. If I want that first part of the edge sharp, I do the same thing in front of the recurve, then use sandpaper wrapped around a dowel or my sharpmaker to get the curved area sharp. I've found on a large blade like that its much faster to use my DMT stones where I can, then blend in the edge with some sort of abrasive rod, rather than doing the entire edge at once with a rod.
