Sal, Can we get CPM 15v?

[nerdlock]

Can someone who was at Blade (possibly 3B if it doesn't violate your NDA with Spyderco) confirm if this is going to be a folder or a fixed blade? Thanks!

[Mushroom]

Can someone who was at Blade (possibly 3B if it doesn't violate your NDA with Spyderco) confirm if this is going to be a folder or a fixed blade? Thanks!

BBB has confirmed that it is a folder -

All info and updates certainly are welcome... its definitely getting a lot of us excited about 15V

Does this involve a whole new knife design or are you putting 15V in an existing model?

I sent Sal a CAD file with a folding knife design I created.

Sal made a prototype of the design.

[nerdlock]

Can someone who was at Blade (possibly 3B if it doesn't violate your NDA with Spyderco) confirm if this is going to be a folder or a fixed blade? Thanks!

BBB has confirmed that it is a folder -

All info and updates certainly are welcome... its definitely getting a lot of us excited about 15V

Does this involve a whole new knife design or are you putting 15V in an existing model?

I sent Sal a CAD file with a folding knife design I created.

Sal made a prototype of the design.

Thank you Nick! Makes me more excited about this one...

[Fireman]

Considering that BBB knives are around $500-@1000 I am sure the Spyderco will be a deal. I hope there is his famous Ghost Grind that is super thin BTE.

[ZrowsN1s]

I get excited when I see this thread get bumped :D

[archangel]

Can someone who was at Blade (possibly 3B if it doesn't violate your NDA with Spyderco) confirm if this is going to be a folder or a fixed blade? Thanks!

BBB has confirmed that it is a folder -

All info and updates certainly are welcome... its definitely getting a lot of us excited about 15V

Does this involve a whole new knife design or are you putting 15V in an existing model?

I sent Sal a CAD file with a folding knife design I created.

Sal made a prototype of the design.

Thank you Nick! Makes me more excited about this one...

Would it be possible to show what the folder you draw looks like, DBH/BBB? Or would that violate any contracts or something? I mean, Spyderco will make probably make changes to come to the final design, so....

At least please tell us something about the dimensions (blade lenght) and blade shape.

[Buddafucco]

The suspense on this one is killer!

[nerdlock]

Here's hoping that all those pm2/para3 dealer exclusives probably in the pipeline won't get in the way in the development, refinement and production of this collab.

[Buddafucco]

The rumor i heard was... A Southard on crack (said in a positive way) with a wire clip and Micarta.
I'm betting it resembles BBB's Trapper fixed blades.

[aaronkb]

The rumor i heard was... A Southard on crack (said in a positive way) with a wire clip and Micarta.
I'm betting it resembles BBB's Trapper fixed blades.

Omg sign me up

[Baron Mind]

Bring it on

[Airlsee]

Is this expected to drop before the end of the year? Has it been said if it is a 2022 design?

[WilliamMunny]

I am bring back this thread with the upcoming release of the Manix 2 in 15v. This should have a lot of good info.

I have two questions, I have not read this whole thread yet so if it’s been answered already sorry.

1. How is 15v vs S90V? They have similar toughness and edge retention but S90V is stainless. Why wouldn’t you always go with S90V?

2. What kind of corrosion resistant can we expect from this? Rust spots, patina, will it just rust in the pocket, etc?

[weeping minora]

I am bring back this thread with the upcoming release of the Manix 2 in 15v. This should have a lot of good info.

I have two questions, I have not read this whole thread yet so if it’s been answered already sorry.

1. How is 15v vs S90V? They have similar toughness and edge retention but S90V is stainless. Why wouldn’t you always go with S90V?

2. What kind of corrosion resistant can we expect from this? Rust spots, patina, will it just rust in the pocket, etc?

I don't think enough people have experience with 15V to even post a definitive comment to your requests. I don't want to sound like a rear-end, but you keep posting questions regarding minute differences on the same subject from thread-to-thread, seemingly dismissing any discussion or information specified in said threads as it is. It gets kind of muddied when you just keep posting, "what about A vs B?", "now what about A vs C?", "now what if A was treated like C vs B for people who think like D?". I understand the quest for knowledge and understanding is great, but there are vast resources on the subject that span far and wide. If you are into these super steels, you should do yourself a favor and start to research and decipher what alloying contents do what within a steel to form an idea on the overall performance of the matrix from the perspective of possibility given an ideal, or different heat-treatment.

S90V is to 15V, as apples are to oranges. The only comparable trait being low toughness, or in other words, they are both fruit. 15V will certainly rust in the pocket for most who perspire, or live in a humid environment, as has S90V for that matter, for a select few. 15V will have much higher attainable hardness and wear resistance. I assume the edge will yield much higher strength (due to hardness), be much more aggressive (due to Vanadium Carbide content) and will hold that aggression for a long time (again, high Vanadium Carbide distribution), given that you are cutting materials that are not very hard in their abrasiveness.

Why add REX 76 to the stable when REX 45 is marginally lesser alloyed? They should behave like the exact same steel, right? As always, Spyderco seems to ask the question of, "why not?", when offering a new steel to their line-up; which has pushed my understanding on what steel can do, beyond a mere "in-use" perspective. It bridges the "why", to the experiences in use.

I hope this doesn't come off too abrasive, it just seems there are too many of the exact same questions being asked all over this forum; sometimes literally post-after-post within the exact same thread, even if answers (experiences or opinions) have been submitted. Research is your best resource (and there are a whole lot of resources), following experience.

[pleadnotguilty]

Good post

[WilliamMunny]

I am bring back this thread with the upcoming release of the Manix 2 in 15v. This should have a lot of good info.

I have two questions, I have not read this whole thread yet so if it’s been answered already sorry.

1. How is 15v vs S90V? They have similar toughness and edge retention but S90V is stainless. Why wouldn’t you always go with S90V?

2. What kind of corrosion resistant can we expect from this? Rust spots, patina, will it just rust in the pocket, etc?

I don't think enough people have experience with 15V to even post a definitive comment to your requests. I don't want to sound like a rear-end, but you keep posting questions regarding minute differences on the same subject from thread-to-thread, seemingly dismissing any discussion or information specified in said threads as it is. It gets kind of muddied when you just keep posting, "what about A vs B?", "now what about A vs C?", "now what if A was treated like C vs B for people who think like D?". I understand the quest for knowledge and understanding is great, but there are vast resources on the subject that span far and wide. If you are into these super steels, you should do yourself a favor and start to research and decipher what alloying contents do what within a steel to form an idea on the overall performance of the matrix from the perspective of possibility given an ideal, or different heat-treatment.

S90V is to 15V, as apples are to oranges. The only comparable trait being low toughness, or in other words, they are both fruit. 15V will certainly rust in the pocket for most who perspire, or live in a humid environment, as has S90V for that matter, for a select few. 15V will have much higher attainable hardness and wear resistance. I assume the edge will yield much higher strength (due to hardness), be much more aggressive (due to Vanadium Carbide content) and will hold that aggression for a long time (again, high Vanadium Carbide distribution), given that you are cutting materials that are not very hard in their abrasiveness.

Why add REX 76 to the stable when REX 45 is marginally lesser alloyed? They should behave like the exact same steel, right? As always, Spyderco seems to ask the question of, "why not?", when offering a new steel to their line-up; which has pushed my understanding on what steel can do, beyond a mere "in-use" perspective. It bridges the "why", to the experiences in use.

I hope this doesn't come off too abrasive, it just seems there are too many of the exact same questions being asked all over this forum; sometimes literally post-after-post within the exact same thread, even if answers (experiences or opinions) have been submitted. Research is your best resource (and there are a whole lot of resources), following experience.

No it’s never too abrasive, thank you for the information. That is how I got to this old thread, trying to do research to learn more. With so many threads and topics things can get missed or mis-read. I do understand that the hardness of the steel effects edge retention but it’s not even across every type of steel.

When you speak to the edge as being aggressive does that mean having micro serrations when sharpened with a courser stone like CBN? Or aggressive mean that it will hold that razor edge before breaking down to a working edge?

Someone made the post stating finishing with a CBN stone gave them better results. I can’t remember the steel but maybe K390 or Maxamet.

[Deadboxhero]

I am bring back this thread with the upcoming release of the Manix 2 in 15v. This should have a lot of good info.

I have two questions, I have not read this whole thread yet so if it’s been answered already sorry.

1. How is 15v vs S90V? They have similar toughness and edge retention but S90V is stainless. Why wouldn’t you always go with S90V?

2. What kind of corrosion resistant can we expect from this? Rust spots, patina, will it just rust in the pocket, etc?

I don't think enough people have experience with 15V to even post a definitive comment to your requests. I don't want to sound like a rear-end, but you keep posting questions regarding minute differences on the same subject from thread-to-thread, seemingly dismissing any discussion or information specified in said threads as it is. It gets kind of muddied when you just keep posting, "what about A vs B?", "now what about A vs C?", "now what if A was treated like C vs B for people who think like D?". I understand the quest for knowledge and understanding is great, but there are vast resources on the subject that span far and wide. If you are into these super steels, you should do yourself a favor and start to research and decipher what alloying contents do what within a steel to form an idea on the overall performance of the matrix from the perspective of possibility given an ideal, or different heat-treatment.

S90V is to 15V, as apples are to oranges. The only comparable trait being low toughness, or in other words, they are both fruit. 15V will certainly rust in the pocket for most who perspire, or live in a humid environment, as has S90V for that matter, for a select few. 15V will have much higher attainable hardness and wear resistance. I assume the edge will yield much higher strength (due to hardness), be much more aggressive (due to Vanadium Carbide content) and will hold that aggression for a long time (again, high Vanadium Carbide distribution), given that you are cutting materials that are not very hard in their abrasiveness.

Why add REX 76 to the stable when REX 45 is marginally lesser alloyed? They should behave like the exact same steel, right? As always, Spyderco seems to ask the question of, "why not?", when offering a new steel to their line-up; which has pushed my understanding on what steel can do, beyond a mere "in-use" perspective. It bridges the "why", to the experiences in use.

I hope this doesn't come off too abrasive, it just seems there are too many of the exact same questions being asked all over this forum; sometimes literally post-after-post within the exact same thread, even if answers (experiences or opinions) have been submitted. Research is your best resource (and there are a whole lot of resources), following experience.

No it’s never too abrasive, thank you for the information. That is how I got to this old thread, trying to do research to learn more. With so many threads and topics things can get missed or mis-read. I do understand that the hardness of the steel effects edge retention but it’s not even across every type of steel.

When you speak to the edge as being aggressive does that mean having micro serrations when sharpened with a courser stone like CBN? Or aggressive mean that it will hold that razor edge before breaking down to a working edge?

Someone made the post stating finishing with a CBN stone gave them better results. I can’t remember the steel but maybe K390 or Maxamet.

Aggressiveness is sharpening geek speak.

It is not quantifiable and has varying subjective opinions.

Well in my subjective opinion and experience an aggressive edge grabs you when you feel it with your finger tips delicately sliding with the lightest touch imaginable. Aggressiveness usually comes at a trade-off with keenness, its more intense grab than stickiness. Stickiness is more of a blend of keenness and aggressiveness which feels finer. Aggressiveness can the experienced when you cut fish skin and animal hide or even cellophane wrappers. The edge does not slide off when drawing across these materials it almost grabs them and cuts very ferociously when drawing the edge across them rather than pushing the edge through to cleave.

[vivi]

^ to add to that, edges that do not slip off plastic wrap, fish skin or animal hide can be PE or SE, toothy or polished edge. It does not require a coarse style edge like I put on my folders to achieve that sort of aggression. I've cut those materials time and time again at work with edges sharpened to 200 grit and edges sharpened to 5,000 grit. They can both get the job done, and each have their own pros and cons.

[Deadboxhero]

^ to add to that, edges that do not slip off plastic wrap, fish skin or animal hide can be PE or SE, toothy or polished edge. It does not require a coarse style edge like I put on my folders to achieve that sort of aggression. I've cut those materials time and time again at work with edges sharpened to 200 grit and edges sharpened to 5,000 grit. They can both get the job done, and each have their own pros and cons.

Yeah when the edge slips it makes you question reality, you can have a bomb edge that will shave and push cut paper like a total bamf with amazing keenness, then you pull a fish out of the river and try to draw cut on the flesh and it's like it's sliding not grabbing the tissue.

I got a story for ya.

I had that happen with my s110v PM2 with a mirror edge. I pulled a trout out of a creek and when I went to gut it the edge was not cutting with light touch and adding force was only deforming the tissue without cutting until a jagged laceration was created with enough force felt like trying to cut solid soft rubber

I was so upset and OCD I pulled out my double stuff 2 cBN pocket stone and quickly apexed a coarse edge with the cBN and reduced burr and finished with alternating passes on the white ceramic corner.

BOOM


A draw of the edge on the fishes belly with a slight touch and it was opening as if it was asked nicely too with a whisper.

However, this edge did not shave arm hair very well or comfortably as the mirror edge.

For new guys this is an important contrast in my experience since you'll run into sharpeners arguing which is best when in reality they really they do different things and will work best depending on the use.

[TkoK83Spy]

For sure! Materials being cut plays a big factor. High grit finishes in the warehouse were a terrible idea. For those tasks, I haven't sharpened above 600 grit in a couple years now, with much better results and less time spent sharpening. Win/Win.