Spyderco Forums

Evil D wrote: ↑

Tue Nov 27, 2018 2:06 pm

Maybe I'm full of myself but if I'm selling a used knife that I've sharpened and put a bevel on myself, I consider that a selling point over the factory edge. I don't mean to sound like I'm calling you out or anything, I just honestly can't see any positive selling point of putting a "factory" bevel on a used knife unless it were to use that as a selling point so you could say "factory bevel/sharpened/etc" as a way of suggesting the knife is newer than it is. Something like that is really more valuable to collectors anyway, so if I were selling a used knife I would consider my own reporfile/sharpening job as a positive selling point over a factory bevel, as I've already done the work of sharpening past any burned steel from the machine sharpening and edge retention will likely be better as a result. Depending on the knife and bevel I would even consider applying a bevel angle of the buyer's choice and using that as a selling point.

Anyway, I hope I didn't come off as a prick, the whole idea just sounded fishy. If that wasn't your goal then I'm glad to be wrong.

Yea, I guess your right someone could do that, and say the knife possibly wasn’t used lol. I think I was looking at it like this;

“Well used PM2 for sale, just resharpened by Spyderco to factory specifications”

No factory edge is gonna hide that. There are a few small chips in the G10, scratches, the Torx screws for the pocket clip show usage.

tps3443 wrote: ↑

Tue Nov 27, 2018 1:36 pm

I just touched it up. Here’s a few shots. I’m not trying to make anything new guys. I just thought having a knife “Factory sharpened” was the right thing to do. I saw a few on eBay like that. But, I’ll sell it like this with my own edge on there no problems haha

The knife has seen good usage. Fortunately, it functions like new. Center blade, absolutely no blade play and it is super smooth.

13.95 degrees, W/ 20.00 degree micro bevel. Stropped at 12.95, and 19.00. Very sharp.

I think I might sell it on a forum. We shall see.

How’s it look? Honest enough? Haha.

Oh. Now I see why you've had issues with microbevels staying sharp. That's not a microbevel. That's a secondary bevel.

To get a microbevel on your knife, sharpen at 14 degrees like you did. No seconday bevel, just a regular 14dps bevel. Then, do two or three passes on the sharpmaker at 20dps.

Microbevels are barely visible, and they're...well, micro. :)

This Military has one.

I think some buyers, especially those not into knives / sharpening, might like the sound of "factory resharpened".

But good photos showing like the OP has show the knife is fine.

With all due respect, and I mean that, I don't think I'd call that a micro-bevel. They should be very light and almost imperceptible. To me, that's just a narrow tertiary bevel.

It might be worth considering removing that and just going with the main secondary bevel.

Just a thought.

EDIT: Vivi beat me to it I see. I agree.

Vivi wrote: ↑

Tue Nov 27, 2018 2:41 pm

tps3443 wrote: ↑

Tue Nov 27, 2018 1:36 pm

I just touched it up. Here’s a few shots. I’m not trying to make anything new guys. I just thought having a knife “Factory sharpened” was the right thing to do. I saw a few on eBay like that. But, I’ll sell it like this with my own edge on there no problems haha

The knife has seen good usage. Fortunately, it functions like new. Center blade, absolutely no blade play and it is super smooth.

13.95 degrees, W/ 20.00 degree micro bevel. Stropped at 12.95, and 19.00. Very sharp.

I think I might sell it on a forum. We shall see.

How’s it look? Honest enough? Haha.

Oh. Now I see why you've had issues with microbevels staying sharp. That's not a microbevel. That's a secondary bevel.

To get a microbevel on your knife, sharpen at 14 degrees like you did. No seconday bevel, just a regular 14dps bevel. Then, do two or three passes on the sharpmaker at 20dps.

Microbevels are barely visible, and they're...well, micro. :)

This Military has one.

Seriously? Ahh ok Lol. I’m gonna give it a shot whenever I touch up the Military. Ive usually done about 5-10 or more passes on each side before. I’ll try it though. Thanks.

Sure thing.

Keep in mind if you're using a more aggressive stone, you only need to do one stroke per side. When I used to finish my edges on my DMT Fine, which cuts much faster than even the brown sharpmaker rods, that was my method. If you're finishing with an ultrafine ceramic upwards of 8,000 grit, it may take a few more.

I'd take an edge like yours over a factory one

Funny this topic popped up. I just grabbed a slightly abused Para 3 with an SE that has seen much better days and was thinking of sending it back to see if they could bring it back a little. Has anyone sent a worn SE back for love and if so how much of a difference did it make?

Thanks!

" I’m not trying to make anything new guys. I just thought having a knife “Factory sharpened” was the right thing to do. I saw a few on eBay like that."

I agree, you're not trying to misrepresent like it's new, just trying to show that with a quality factory sharpening, nobody has done a crude "bench grinder" job on it and ruined the edge.

JDWY wrote: ↑

Wed Nov 28, 2018 1:09 pm

" I’m not trying to make anything new guys. I just thought having a knife “Factory sharpened” was the right thing to do. I saw a few on eBay like that."

I agree, you're not trying to misrepresent like it's new, just trying to show that with a quality factory sharpening, nobody has done a crude "bench grinder" job on it and ruined the edge.

Before I bought my Military, I was looking all over the used and new market for Spyderco folding knives. I ran across about 2 or 3 knives, usually S110V more than others, and the description listed; used knife good condition, just Factory resharpened. Almost as if there is some myth that this steel is hard to sharpen it. It is made of unicorn hoolves and it never gets dull lol. Maybe it was just a coincidence or possibly even the same seller. Maybe the buyer cannot sharpen anything yet, and he would appreciate that it would cut exactly like spyderco intended it to, maybe not how I intend it to.

I guess what I’m getting at is, ultimately selling a knife as used, and saying “ Just factory resharpened” only discloses one thing, that the knife has obviously been dulled to a point where it needed to be resharpened again. Which just points to the fact it was used lol. I don’t see how that would be misrepresentation.

That’s like saying this car is brand new, I just installed new tires on it lol.

Evil.D was the one who actually pointed out to me, that someone could do such misrepresentation.

But, the thought of what this thread was implying never crossed my mind. I don’t even have the box for my PM2 anymore. I gave it to my father in law with a Spyderco resilience in it by mistake.

Dornbox wrote: ↑

Wed Nov 28, 2018 11:12 am

Funny this topic popped up. I just grabbed a slightly abused Para 3 with an SE that has seen much better days and was thinking of sending it back to see if they could bring it back a little. Has anyone sent a worn SE back for love and if so how much of a difference did it make?

Thanks!

I dropped off my old Mariner to have the serrated edge re-ground (there is a charge for this) and below is a before/after image of the result; a big difference IMO for this particular one :spyder:

I actually kind of like buying used things that show some use -- but not abuse. A little pocket or holster wear is a badge of honor.

If I was in the market for your knife, I wouldn't hesitate for a minute given the pictures you show. You can certainly take quality pictures.

But honestly, you should just keep it. The PM2 is such a classic, and like you say, you get the incredible action of the compression lock. I was carrying a PM2 today, though I have been carrying my Military and the Police 4 quite a lot lately. I was up on my roof working on a skylight and using the Rex45 to do some real work. Some people would probably be pulling their hair watching me use a sprint run knife to chop RTV and roofing sealant off of aluminum angle. Nothing there that should harm a blade though.

toxophilus wrote: ↑

Thu Nov 29, 2018 11:12 am

Dornbox wrote: ↑

Wed Nov 28, 2018 11:12 am

Funny this topic popped up. I just grabbed a slightly abused Para 3 with an SE that has seen much better days and was thinking of sending it back to see if they could bring it back a little. Has anyone sent a worn SE back for love and if so how much of a difference did it make?

Thanks!

I dropped off my old Mariner to have the serrated edge re-ground (there is a charge for this) and below is a before/after image of the result; a big difference IMO for this particular one :spyder:

I would agree! Now I feel even better about my purchase. If the regrind is around 20$ I will have a nice Gray SE Para 3 for well under $100. Thanks for the pics! :D

I've only ever used Spyderco's factory sharpening service twice and both of them were many years ago. One time the blade on an old SE Endura was so bad they just changed the blade. They had some left over AUS-8 SE blades and I was in luck>> so that one didn't get sharp. On one other occasion when I had my horrible experience on a Caly JR ZDP-189 blade I didn't really know what else to do.

I had been cutting up some tomatoes and put the knife away forgetting to wash it :eek: The next morning it was as though I had soaked it in 3 different industrial acids overnight It was so pitted and the edge was wrecked badly. But they did a really nice restoration job on it and avoided a blade replacement.

I've gone out of my way to tell you all this to let you know that there are some of these so-called "stainless" steels that are extremely vulnerable to food acids as I found out the hard way :o Now I'm very prudent to see that all my blades get immediately washed after use>> I don't even care if it's an H-1 blade or whatever type of steel it is. I don't ever want to go though that again.

JD Spydo wrote: ↑

Fri Nov 30, 2018 9:28 am

I've gone out of my way to tell you all this to let you know that there are some of these so-called "stainless" steels that are extremely vulnerable to food acids as I found out the hard way :o Now I'm very prudent to see that all my blades get immediately washed after use>> I don't even care if it's an H-1 blade or whatever type of steel it is. I don't ever want to go though that again.

I use to work in the custom bicycle frame industry. A common phrase when talking to people who would complain about a marking or corrosion on their stainless steel frames which was usually caused by prolonged exposure to road salts or just a total lack of care was "it's stainLESS steel not stain proof". If it's metal, something can corrode it.

Stainless steel bike frames are a thing?!

GarageBoy wrote: ↑

Fri Nov 30, 2018 12:53 pm

Stainless steel bike frames are a thing?!

steel, wood, bamboo, cardon fiber, aluminum, titanium, or a combination of these are all used in bicycle frames :)

Vivi wrote: ↑

Fri Nov 30, 2018 1:10 pm

GarageBoy wrote: ↑

Fri Nov 30, 2018 12:53 pm

Stainless steel bike frames are a thing?!

steel, wood, bamboo, cardon fiber, aluminum, titanium, or a combination of these are all used in bicycle frames :)

In the custom world you can find a lot of things. Steel, Stainless, Titanium, Aluminum, Carbon are the biggies with Bamboo then wood following up. Usually the bamboo is held together with carbon layup. In steel and Ti you can even find carbon tubes mixed in. Epoxy is a wonderful thing.

Dornbox wrote: ↑

Fri Nov 30, 2018 11:01 am

JD Spydo wrote: ↑

Fri Nov 30, 2018 9:28 am

I've gone out of my way to tell you all this to let you know that there are some of these so-called "stainless" steels that are extremely vulnerable to food acids as I found out the hard way :o Now I'm very prudent to see that all my blades get immediately washed after use>> I don't even care if it's an H-1 blade or whatever type of steel it is. I don't ever want to go though that again.

I use to work in the custom bicycle frame industry. A common phrase when talking to people who would complain about a marking or corrosion on their stainless steel frames which was usually caused by prolonged exposure to road salts or just a total lack of care was "it's stainLESS steel not stain proof". If it's metal, something can corrode it.

Remington Firearms produced a "stainless" rifle barrel a few years ago that IMHO rusted worse than blued steel,
well not quite but listening to various reports of returns back to dealers they had quite a few that rusted.

Re food acids, I'm the same, some foods are shocking. Washing your gear regardless if it's H1 should be normal IMHO,
just part of maintaining your gear.

With knives, It's not so much washing the food acid, blood or whatever off it's the fine grit and dirt you can hardly see
that does the damage.

I just wanted to say thanks to the crew at Spyderco for the awesome job they did regrinding and re habbing an a junkyard dog of a SE Para 3 I recently sent them. Best money I’ve ever spent on a knife... minus buying a new Spyderco. Thanks!