best steel?

[ladybug93]

what is the best steel of all the spyderco line-up for work and outdoor (carving) use? something that is tough and easy to touch up in the field, but doesn’t wear so fast that you have to stop in the middle of what you’re doing to sharpen again. corrosion resistance would be nice, but it’s not as much of a priority as the rest.

thanks for your input.

[Daveho]

8cr13Mov

Lol nah.


Just depends on your preference I’d say-
Anything beyond the basics are fine but handle ergos and blade size and shape are probably more relevant, just my 2c

[Mattysc42]

Lc200n.

[vivi]

what is the best steel of all the spyderco line-up for work and outdoor (carving) use? something that is tough and easy to touch up in the field, but doesn’t wear so fast that you have to stop in the middle of what you’re doing to sharpen again. corrosion resistance would be nice, but it’s not as much of a priority as the rest.

thanks for your input.

With those priorities I would look at their 52100 sprint run folders, and the O1 bushcrafter.

[Pelagic]

Cruwear fits this bill. Extremely easy to sharpen and won't go dull on you any time soon. M4 would last slightly longer and be very slightly more tedious to sharpen. Both have ample toughness for woodworking.

[Slash]

Best steel wont help with poor design as is blade shape and comfortable handle. I would start with those and see if the steel will suffice your needs.

Fixed or folder?

[Luke2236]

Well for ME it’s M4. However everyone’s uses are going to be different. I’m not around salt water so rust is not that big of an issue for me. I really like M4 steel for my knife uses but lately I’ve been carrying a zip-189 Delica with my GB1 and have really enjoyed it.

[emanuel]

Cruwear and 52100. Cruwear has more wear resistance than 52100 by a large amount while having high toughness and still being easy to sharpen. But wear resistance isn't going to be a factor into how long your edge will last when wood carving is involved, so both will perform about the same as long as they're ran around 60-62 hrc. I would go with Cruwear, its not as stainy as 52100 when it comes to sensitivity to corrosion, but its not a true stainless. Its about as corrosion resistant as D2

[blues]

^^^^

I agree with emanuel...and is what I was going to post as well.

[ferider]

I'd go with CPM Cru-wear, instead of Cru-wear :). Only half joking, it bugs me that people have no time to spell it out since they are very different steels when it comes to toughness.

For wood carving, I most prefer the Manix 2, geometry is more important than the steel of course.

If you'd like a fixed blade, the Mule Team 27 can still be had for 70 bucks, kind of like a fixed Manix 2. Should be outstanding for your purpose.

Roland.

[blues]

I'd go with CPM Cru-wear, instead of Cru-wear :). Only half joking, it bugs me that people have no time to spell it out since they are very different steels when it comes to toughness.
Roland.

It really bugs me when people don't take the time to actually spell it out correctly...it's CPM CRU-WEAR®

:rolleyes:

:p

[Pelagic]

I'd go with CPM Cru-wear, instead of Cru-wear :). Only half joking, it bugs me that people have no time to spell it out since they are very different steels when it comes to toughness.
Roland.

It really bugs me when people don't take the time to actually spell it out correctly...it's CPM CRU-WEAR®

:rolleyes:

:p

I support this. :D

Back on subject... While geometry and blade shape usually matter more than steel, that's not exactly what the thread is about. But after breaking my 2nd tip in s110v on a military/pm2, I certainly look for tougher steels on models with acute tips. I think having a strong tip is important in wood CARVING, for detail, but not always with woodworking. Apex stability would be my #1 concern. I think the new para 3 in 4v would be another great choice. So would a Shaman in...

CPM CRU-WEAR®

When is that coming out again? :D

[blues]

Well said, my seagoing friend.

I think CPM® REX® 45(HS), (that's a mouthful), would also be a reasonable alternative in both edge holding and toughness. Not the best, obviously, in the corrosion resistance arena.

[The Mastiff]

These are good recommendations. All of them sharpen very nicely too when it does come time. The Rex 45 might be a top choice the way Spyderco heat treated and ground them. They didn't really waste any potential and got about as much out of it as is possible. The Cruwear offerings I can say the same about. CPM M4 is always a good choice too when extreme corrosion resistance isn't called for. The Japan made HAP 40 line also would fit into this group.

Joe

[supracor]

Lc200n.

Gospel.

[abbazaba]

M4 for me. K390 and REX45 have been amazing, but I have the most experience with M4 and loves doing exactly what you are looking for IMO. Nothing wrong with Cruwear either.

[JonLeBlanc]

Whoops my apologies

[The Meat man]

8cr13Mov

Lol nah.

Actually that's not a bad suggestion. 8Cr13MoV is a fine steel, if you're like the OP, and not concerned with extreme wear resistance. It's got a pretty good balance of properties IMO.

How about CTS BD1(N)?

[sal]

Hi Mattysc,

welcome to our forum.

sal

[Daveho]

8cr13Mov

Lol nah.

Actually that's not a bad suggestion. 8Cr13MoV is a fine steel, if you're like the OP, and not concerned with extreme wear resistance. It's got a pretty good balance of properties IMO.

How about CTS BD1(N)?

Would need to much touching up I’d guess for his application- I was actually on the fence about vg10, personally I like the stuff.
Bd1 would actually be pretty swell I think.