Spyderco Forums

Vivi wrote: ↑

Tue Sep 25, 2018 9:41 am

It helps if you can cut the wire on a hard surface, like a cutting board. Less chance for damage that way.

Yeah another hindsight thought was that I probably could have closed the blade against the handle and chopped through the wire much easier. The Assist was designed with this in mind and the handle is pretty similar to the Autonomy.

Evil D wrote: ↑

Tue Sep 25, 2018 9:28 am

....Sure I've got the right tool for the job but in most cases a wire is not a big deal for a pocket knife, as long as it's not coax lol.

Cat5, Cat6, pocketknife? No problem. Coaxial.... wire cutters. Although to be honest after watching BBB's videos I'm tempted to cut some coaxial with Rex45 and Maxamet just to see.

I should also mention that I have actually managed edge damage on S110V with a Cat5 cable before. Stuff happens.

Last week my HAP-40 Endura didn't quite appreciate cutting through steel staples. Finished the rest of the day's work but it definitely didn't appreciate it much. So glad it wasn't S30v.

drawn and work-hardened copper can do a number on any edge. You got off relatively easy!

Finally back in fighting shape. Most of it honed out relatively well but it had a couple flat spots on the edge inside the large serrations that took quite a bit to bring back to an apex, so much so that I even broke out the diamond rods to speed things up a bit. What's interesting is how the serrations more or less returned back to their origina/rounded point shape despite how badly chipped they were.

These are the two sections that had the worst chipped teeth.

Looked like a silhouette at first, haha.

bouhunter wrote: ↑

Tue Sep 25, 2018 8:46 am

I would ...

Evil D wrote: ↑

Tue Sep 25, 2018 1:43 pm

Finally back in fighting shape. Most of it honed out relatively well but it had a couple flat spots on the edge inside the large serrations that took quite a bit to bring back to an apex, so much so that I even broke out the diamond rods to speed things up a bit. What's interesting is how the serrations more or less returned back to their origina/rounded point shape despite how badly chipped they were.

These are the two sections that had the worst chipped teeth.

was this done solely on the sharpmaker?

ladybug93 wrote: ↑

Tue Sep 25, 2018 5:01 pm

Evil D wrote: ↑

Tue Sep 25, 2018 1:43 pm

Finally back in fighting shape. Most of it honed out relatively well but it had a couple flat spots on the edge inside the large serrations that took quite a bit to bring back to an apex, so much so that I even broke out the diamond rods to speed things up a bit. What's interesting is how the serrations more or less returned back to their origina/rounded point shape despite how badly chipped they were.

These are the two sections that had the worst chipped teeth.

was this done solely on the sharpmaker?

Yes sir.

Evil D wrote: ↑

Tue Sep 25, 2018 5:02 pm

Yes sir.

How long would you guesstimate it took to repair D?

Bloke wrote: ↑

Tue Sep 25, 2018 5:06 pm

Evil D wrote: ↑

Tue Sep 25, 2018 5:02 pm

Yes sir.

How long would you guesstimate it took to repair D?

I'd say a few hours, I got through at least a movie and a half. Constantine is a really underrated movie :D

Evil D wrote: ↑

Tue Sep 25, 2018 5:12 pm

Bloke wrote: ↑

Tue Sep 25, 2018 5:06 pm

Evil D wrote: ↑

Tue Sep 25, 2018 5:02 pm

Yes sir.

How long would you guesstimate it took to repair D?

I'd say a few hours, I got through at least a movie and a half. Constantine is a really underrated movie :D

Ah, hahaha! :)

Well done though and glad you were able to fix. :cool:

Bloke wrote: ↑

Tue Sep 25, 2018 5:18 pm

Evil D wrote: ↑

Tue Sep 25, 2018 5:12 pm

Bloke wrote: ↑

Tue Sep 25, 2018 5:06 pm

Evil D wrote: ↑

Tue Sep 25, 2018 5:02 pm

Yes sir.

How long would you guesstimate it took to repair D?

I'd say a few hours, I got through at least a movie and a half. Constantine is a really underrated movie :D

Ah, hahaha! :)

Well done though and glad you were able to fix. :cool:

Honestly I probably could have done it in a quarter of that time if I had started with the diamond rods. For the record though, it's REALLY risky using diamond rods on serrations, it's very easy to grind them right off. I only used diamonds on a couple really bad spots that I first tried for well over an hour on the brown rods and I got the entire edge to the point that it wasn't reflecting light except for a couple spots that were really badly flat. I also used the diamond rods on the plain edge part at the tip to repair a ding that I put in it a couple months ago, it's kinda shocking how fast they cut through H1.

dang. i’m gonna need a sharpmaker.

Interesting thread and I am very impressed how good you got that looking with the sharpmaker EvilD. Also very good photos man!

Nice job, Dave. Glad you were able to fix it and keep it looking good. I really wish I could get that knife here.

Jazz wrote: ↑

Tue Sep 25, 2018 6:46 pm

Nice job, Dave. Glad you were able to fix it and keep it looking good. I really wish I could get that knife here.

Man it really is a winner. I would be very interested in a manually opening version with a larger thumb hole and whatever lock they choose to use as long as the handle stays the same. I've never had much luck with finger grooves but these fit me so well the knife genuinely feels good in my hand. It makes me smile every time I grip it.


Then again, I also feel kinda dumb using a $200 knife when the Pacific (or practically any other Salt knife) is half the cost and will work just as well. On some level the Autonomy is probably a stronger knife overall but that's a bit of a moot point. Honestly I've also never been a big fan of autos but I really do love the Plunge Lock, it's a fantastic design.

I like that (I just recently noticed) the button is a Spyderhole. :cool:

I’d like a manual version too. Back lock for me, of course :rolleyes:. Actually, plunge lock would be awesome too.

This just pierced my mental bubble of considering how excellent H1 steel is. Maybe I was putting too much emphasis on it

Most RG6 these days is aluminum or tinned copper for the braid, then aluminum or aluminized plastic film for the inner shield (sometimes two layers of braid and/or aluminum foil) then copper plated steel for the center conductor, this allows the cable to be strung farther without an additional support wire. If it had been pure copper I doubt your serration tips would have taken any damage past some slight dulling.