Not sure what that would be? Had this happen few times. I doubt my knife was contaminated with something metalic or corrosion prone each time. Unless the DLC itself is prone to corrosion? I can't see how.
Thanks for all the info shared on this thread. I appreciate those links to Janich's older posts about this!Rutger wrote: ↑Sun Sep 23, 2018 4:01 amThere is so much bad information about knife blade coatings out there. And i rarely see people provide any evidence or talk from their own experience. People are just repeating each other like monkeys. Not all blade coatings are created equal and maybe people had bad experience with fake or bad DLC from other companies. But Spyderco uses the best coatings. The DLC is bonded to the steel at molecular level, unlike many other coatings.
Michael Janich from Spyderco has posted about DLC coatings several times:
//forum.spyderco.com/viewto ... 94#p895794
//forum.spyderco.com/viewto ... 18#p878418
//forum.spyderco.com/viewto ... 48#p589348
Here is some scientific article about PACVD aka DLC coatings:
"Amorphous SiOx films provide excellent corrosion protection of steel, which is explained, on the one hand, by a tiny porosity rate, and on the other hand, by intrinsic insulating properties of the coating. This barrier effect avoids any galvanic coupling deleterious to the uncoated metallic surface, and is correlated with the SiO2-like character of the film."
This makes me happy to read as I live in a fairly rainy and humid environment and the DLC M4 PM2 has become a real favorite since its arrival a week or two back. (I'm pretty good about maintaining my gear in any case, but nonetheless, the reports of DLC blades holding up to the elements is heartening.)
I’m very interested for your results mate.Surfingringo wrote: ↑Sun Sep 23, 2018 4:38 amI've never carried any coated DLC blades on the kayak so I don't have any first hand data. About 5 or 6 years ago though, I sold a coated pm2 to a friend who is a boat captain in the marina here. He is out on fishing charters every day and the knife sees a LOT of saltwater. About a year after he bought it he asked me if I would sharpen it. I noticed a few light rust spots blooming on the coating itself, same as they would be on an uncoated blade. I assumed at the time that the underlying steel was rusting but now I really wish I had paid more attention. It could be the steel rusting under the coating or it could be the hardware showing some rust and bleeding onto the blade as can happen in HIGHLY corrosive environments. I will make a point of asking him if he still has the knife so I can make a proper inspection. I am interested now.
It seems to be the case when I wipe it down with a light coat of mineral oil. (Sort of like when lubricating an oil stone. The "swarf" seems to rise to the top.)
I'll have to try that. I don't even own mineral oil but I do have a plethora of household and firearm/knife lubes. I think I tried 3-in-1, Hoppes #9 and Hoppes Elite Gun Oil on my DLC PM2 and I didn't like the result. Luckily some hot water and Dawn took it off.blues wrote: ↑Tue Sep 25, 2018 4:57 pmIt seems to be the case when I wipe it down with a light coat of mineral oil. (Sort of like when lubricating an oil stone. The "swarf" seems to rise to the top.)
I just barely moisten my fingertips, rub a bit into the coating and then wipe it gently. That seems to leave a bit of protection without feeling gunked up. YMMV. (I haven't used synthetic oil or CLP or any other stuff I use on knives or firearms.)
A couple bucks for a pint at Wally world:Brown_Recluse wrote: ↑Tue Sep 25, 2018 6:03 pmI'll have to try that. I don't even own mineral oil but I do have a plethora of household and firearm/knife lubes. I think I tried 3-in-1, Hoppes #9 and Hoppes Elite Gun Oil on my DLC PM2 and I didn't like the result. Luckily some hot water and Dawn took it off.
Now that I have this 4V DLC Para 3 I'm much more inclined to find a way to protect it whereas with s30v it wasn't really necessary.
I haven't had to be so aggressive with Flitz that it actually polished the DLC, but I do strop my serrations with a Dremel cotton wheel loaded with polishing compound and I have seen the finish take on a shinier look near the edge. I think if you just use Flitz on a rag with your finger you'll be fine. Afterwards wipe the blade down with alcohol and then with mineral oil and it'll be good to go.Fixmeister wrote: ↑Tue Sep 25, 2018 6:27 pmFlitz to remove marks... so, is the DLC resistant to the polish of Flitz? I was concerned that any polishing agent would begin to remove the DLC itself. And out of curiosity, did the Flitz put a shine on the DLC? My Para 3 M4 has a flat DLC and I’ve seen DLC with a satin finish. Might be something I’d try to get a bit of a sheen on the blade. Maybe a Fabulustre cloth with jewelers rouge on it?
If there's any tiny pits where the rust was, I think it was the blade. If it's perfectly smooth, I'd say it was surface contamination.abbazaba wrote: ↑Sun Sep 23, 2018 10:15 amThe rust still looks like rust, but it is fairly easy to remove in my experience.
My M4 DLC PM2 was my EDC outside of the office since it dropped until the REX45 dropped (which took it's role so far). It was my yard work/project/camping/hiking beater. I treat my knives like knives, but I didn't go out of my way to baby it.
Here is what it looked like this morning:
Fortunately, it is easy to rub most of the rust off with 5mins or less of elbow grease.
This has been my experience with Spyderco's DLC on the S30v model as well, FWIW. Hope this helps.
DLC is the protection
Yes.DLC is the protection
I used marine tuff cloth on my coated S3OV para 2 which was a bit overkill and it made the coating look grey but a wipe with wd40 made it nice and black/sleek looking again.