H1 vs. LC200n...Real World Observations
Re: H1 vs. LC200n...Real World Observations
Surfingringo, one of the good things about H-1 is its toughness. Edges in H-1 seem to roll rather than chip if the edge hits something hard. How does LC200N compare in this regard?
- Surfingringo
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Re: H1 vs. LC200n...Real World Observations
I haven’t tested either to their limits as far as toughness goes but I can tell you that the edge on Lc200n will definitely roll before it chips. It’s higher hardness/greater strength though means it will roll less easily than H1. I would assume that same hardness would mean it’s not quite as crazy tough as H1. I think I remember seeing Jazz bend an H1 blade in half without breaking. I doubt you could do that with Lc200n but I’d still probably rate it tougher than the majority of cutlery steels we’re using today.
Re: H1 vs. LC200n...Real World Observations
Thanks for the response. Based on what I have learned in this thread, it seems that L 200N is one he k of an EDC steel: essentially rust proof, very good toughness, reasonable edge retention and easy to sharpen.Surfingringo wrote: ↑Mon Jul 30, 2018 6:08 pmI haven’t tested either to their limits as far as toughness goes but I can tell you that the edge on Lc200n will definitely roll before it chips. It’s higher hardness/greater strength though means it will roll less easily than H1. I would assume that same hardness would mean it’s not quite as crazy tough as H1. I think I remember seeing Jazz bend an H1 blade in half without breaking. I doubt you could do that with Lc200n but I’d still probably rate it tougher than the majority of cutlery steels we’re using today.
- curlyhairedboy
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Re: H1 vs. LC200n...Real World Observations
dang, this is really pushing me towards a Caribbean...
EDC Rotation: PITS, Damasteel Urban, Shaman, Ikuchi, Amalgam, CruCarta Shaman, Sage 5 LW, Serrated Caribbean Sheepsfoot CQI, XHP Shaman, M4/Micarta Shaman, 15v Shaman
Fixed Blades: Proficient, Magnacut Mule
Special and Sentimental: Southard, Squarehead LW, Ouroboros, Calendar Para 3 LW, 40th Anniversary Native, Ti Native, Calendar Watu, Tanto PM2
Would like to own again: CQI Caribbean Sheepsfoot PE, Watu
Wishlist: Magnacut, Shaman Sprints!
Fixed Blades: Proficient, Magnacut Mule
Special and Sentimental: Southard, Squarehead LW, Ouroboros, Calendar Para 3 LW, 40th Anniversary Native, Ti Native, Calendar Watu, Tanto PM2
Would like to own again: CQI Caribbean Sheepsfoot PE, Watu
Wishlist: Magnacut, Shaman Sprints!
Re: H1 vs. LC200n...Real World Observations
You wont be sorry if you take the plunge. I wasn't initially going to buy one. I am very glad I did..curlyhairedboy wrote: ↑Tue Jul 31, 2018 7:44 amdang, this is really pushing me towards a Caribbean...
- steelcity16
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Re: H1 vs. LC200n...Real World Observations
Surfingringo wrote: ↑Mon Jul 30, 2018 6:08 pm
I think I remember seeing Jazz bend an H1 blade in half without breaking.
:eek: This I have to see! Can someone post pictures or links to a thread???
CRU-CARTA THE SEKI MODELS! AND BRING US THE DODO-FLY!
- curlyhairedboy
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Re: H1 vs. LC200n...Real World Observations
Just got to decide between sheepsfoot PE or leaf PE.... I kinda dig the sheepsfoot because tip strength in aquatic activities can be extremely important...mrtodd777 wrote: ↑Tue Jul 31, 2018 8:27 amYou wont be sorry if you take the plunge. I wasn't initially going to buy one. I am very glad I did..curlyhairedboy wrote: ↑Tue Jul 31, 2018 7:44 amdang, this is really pushing me towards a Caribbean...
EDC Rotation: PITS, Damasteel Urban, Shaman, Ikuchi, Amalgam, CruCarta Shaman, Sage 5 LW, Serrated Caribbean Sheepsfoot CQI, XHP Shaman, M4/Micarta Shaman, 15v Shaman
Fixed Blades: Proficient, Magnacut Mule
Special and Sentimental: Southard, Squarehead LW, Ouroboros, Calendar Para 3 LW, 40th Anniversary Native, Ti Native, Calendar Watu, Tanto PM2
Would like to own again: CQI Caribbean Sheepsfoot PE, Watu
Wishlist: Magnacut, Shaman Sprints!
Fixed Blades: Proficient, Magnacut Mule
Special and Sentimental: Southard, Squarehead LW, Ouroboros, Calendar Para 3 LW, 40th Anniversary Native, Ti Native, Calendar Watu, Tanto PM2
Would like to own again: CQI Caribbean Sheepsfoot PE, Watu
Wishlist: Magnacut, Shaman Sprints!
Re: H1 vs. LC200n...Real World Observations
That was my initial hang up to. Which one to choose.. I primarily use this knife when fishing, and have found the leaf blade to be plenty strong for any task I have thrown at it. I am glad that I chose it. It cuts up plenty of gizzard shad for big blue catfish bait, opens packages, cuts line, etc. Until now my SE pac salt was king of the lake, but the leaf PE Caribbean is definitely a step up in performance.curlyhairedboy wrote: ↑Tue Jul 31, 2018 8:49 amJust got to decide between sheepsfoot PE or leaf PE.... I kinda dig the sheepsfoot because tip strength in aquatic activities can be extremely important...mrtodd777 wrote: ↑Tue Jul 31, 2018 8:27 amYou wont be sorry if you take the plunge. I wasn't initially going to buy one. I am very glad I did..curlyhairedboy wrote: ↑Tue Jul 31, 2018 7:44 amdang, this is really pushing me towards a Caribbean...
- gundamaniac
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Re: H1 vs. LC200n...Real World Observations
Wow. Great observations here! And that Waterway looks stunning. A clean sleek design. I've gotta get my hands on one of these when they come out. A rust proof worry free fixed blade sounds fantastic to me.
- Knife Knut
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Re: H1 vs. LC200n...Real World Observations
Does it respond well to being steeled or burnished back into alignment?Surfingringo wrote: ↑Mon Jul 30, 2018 6:08 pmI haven’t tested either to their limits as far as toughness goes but I can tell you that the edge on Lc200n will definitely roll before it chips.
Re: H1 vs. LC200n...Real World Observations
Today, I spent the afternoon at the beach. Took my Salt 1 with me. The blade was submerged in the ocean for three hours straight. After, I went for really late lunch/early dinner without rinsing the knife or anything. Got home at about 8:30pm. The blade was impeccable except for some superficial rust over the laser edging which I am sure will come right off when I clean the knife tomorrow to remove the sand.
H-1 is truly a beast in the corrosion resistance department.
H-1 is truly a beast in the corrosion resistance department.
Re: H1 vs. LC200n...Real World Observations
Other than titanium, which sucks as a blade steel, H-1 is the water Holy Grail. I think it's time to make car bodies out of as I could sure use it!ejcr98 wrote: ↑Sat Aug 11, 2018 7:35 pmToday, I spent the afternoon at the beach. Took my Salt 1 with me. The blade was submerged in the ocean for three hours straight. After, I went for really late lunch/early dinner without rinsing the knife or anything. Got home at about 8:30pm. The blade was impeccable except for some superficial rust over the laser edging which I am sure will come right off when I clean the knife tomorrow to remove the sand.
H-1 is truly a beast in the corrosion resistance department.
Can you find it and can it cut? :eek:
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Re: H1 vs. LC200n...Real World Observations
I'm really curious to know how LC200N compares to H-1 in SE. Now that the Caribbean has been out in SE for a little while, any insights Lance or others? Can LC200N dethrone H-1 as the king of SE?
- Connor
"What is a man profited, if he shall gain the whole world, and lose his own soul?"
"What is a man profited, if he shall gain the whole world, and lose his own soul?"
Re: H1 vs. LC200n...Real World Observations
Me too! This is the first I’ve heard of or seen a pic of the waterway. I like it.The Meat man wrote: ↑Sun Aug 12, 2018 6:28 amI'm really curious to know how LC200N compares to H-1 in SE. Now that the Caribbean has been out in SE for a little while, any insights Lance or others? Can LC200N dethrone H-1 as the king of SE?
Re: H1 vs. LC200n...Real World Observations
OK since a few people have made an observation that LC200N doesn't exactly have 100% of the corrosion resistance that H-1 has. OK let's say that's true>> and if it is I've got two remedies that would cure that completely. The Sentry Solutions company has a product called TUF CLOTH and they also have a Marine Grade of that TUF CLOTH too. I've used both of them even on carbon steel blades and I'm here to tell you that product works to prevent any type of corrosion, pitting, patina or anything of that nature.
Also the FLITZ company who makes that excellent metal polish that most of us here have used at one time also makes a "metal wax" Now I've used the FLITZ metal wax on several applications and it is also a great preventative for all kinds of metal protection. If I had any remote concerns I would use one or both of those products and feel 100% confident. Prevention can go a long way when protecting metal. And I've had nothing but great luck with FLITZ and Sentry Solution's products.
Also the FLITZ company who makes that excellent metal polish that most of us here have used at one time also makes a "metal wax" Now I've used the FLITZ metal wax on several applications and it is also a great preventative for all kinds of metal protection. If I had any remote concerns I would use one or both of those products and feel 100% confident. Prevention can go a long way when protecting metal. And I've had nothing but great luck with FLITZ and Sentry Solution's products.
Re: H1 vs. LC200n...Real World Observations
I was helping some friends do some remodeling and used my sheepsfoot Caribbean to cut some notches in treated wood. (edge of 2x4 to about 3/8" depth). Was in a bit of a hurry and didn't have my chisel with me. It worked great! Cut to the depth by pushing and rocking and whittled out the wood. It did not chip and still cut paper fairly well when I got home and easily sharpened back up. I'm liking this steel (or non-steel?) and this blade!
As far as rust, I've not put it to any extreme use here. I've read what I could find about LC200N rusting and it seems that it may be susceptible to galvanic corrosion (or electrolysis). Not sure if this would be called rust technically. If you don't put a dissimilar metal in close proximity while wet, I think you'd be ok. Maybe needs some replaceable Zinc tabs like they put on steel boat hulls :)
As far as rust, I've not put it to any extreme use here. I've read what I could find about LC200N rusting and it seems that it may be susceptible to galvanic corrosion (or electrolysis). Not sure if this would be called rust technically. If you don't put a dissimilar metal in close proximity while wet, I think you'd be ok. Maybe needs some replaceable Zinc tabs like they put on steel boat hulls :)
- Surfingringo
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Re: H1 vs. LC200n...Real World Observations
Hey guys, I posted this over in the "No sharpening November" thread but thought it might be worth posting in this thread too.
https://youtu.be/DGnOnAtwSNw
https://youtu.be/DGnOnAtwSNw
Re: H1 vs. LC200n...Real World Observations
wow! great video! i’m sure those other steels are great for some people, but this video really gets me even more excited for lc200n than i already was. i can’t wait for the native salt to come out and hopefully more models to follow.Surfingringo wrote: ↑Sun Nov 11, 2018 6:23 pmHey guys, I posted this over in the "No sharpening November" thread but thought it might be worth posting in this thread too.
https://youtu.be/DGnOnAtwSNw
i did have a question about the caribbean though... have you ever had fish guts, sand, etc. block the compression lock? sometimes i get some course sand in the action of my pacific salt and it takes a good rinsing before it smooths out again, but it still works. i imagine that could cause more serious problems with the compression lock functioning until i was able to rinse it out. have you had any issues? thanks.
keep your knife sharp and your focus sharper.
current collection:
C36MCW2, C258YL, C253GBBK, C258GFBL, C101GBBK2, C11GYW, C11FWNB20CV, C101GBN15V2, C101GODFDE2, C60GGY, C149G, C189, C101GBN2, MT35, C211TI, C242CF, C217GSSF, C101BN2, C85G2, C91BBK, C142G, C122GBBK, LBK, LYL3HB, C193, C28YL2, C11ZPGYD, C41YL5, C252G, C130G, PLKIT1
spyderco steels:
H2, CPM 20CV, CPM 15V, CTS 204P, CPM CRUWEAR, CPM S30V, N690Co, M390, CPM MagnaCut, LC200N, CTS XHP, H1, 8Cr13MoV, GIN-1, CTS BD1, VG-10, VG-10/Damascus, 440C
current collection:
C36MCW2, C258YL, C253GBBK, C258GFBL, C101GBBK2, C11GYW, C11FWNB20CV, C101GBN15V2, C101GODFDE2, C60GGY, C149G, C189, C101GBN2, MT35, C211TI, C242CF, C217GSSF, C101BN2, C85G2, C91BBK, C142G, C122GBBK, LBK, LYL3HB, C193, C28YL2, C11ZPGYD, C41YL5, C252G, C130G, PLKIT1
spyderco steels:
H2, CPM 20CV, CPM 15V, CTS 204P, CPM CRUWEAR, CPM S30V, N690Co, M390, CPM MagnaCut, LC200N, CTS XHP, H1, 8Cr13MoV, GIN-1, CTS BD1, VG-10, VG-10/Damascus, 440C
Re: H1 vs. LC200n...Real World Observations
Hey Surfingringo, great video. Haven’t had a chance to try LC200N but your inputs make me one to try it even more. To me LC200N seems like the percect EDC steel, specially if one does not use the knife as a work knife that may require a longer lasting edge but rather as a true EDC (i.e. in my opinion, opening and cutting a few things here and there on an evreyday basis). Now if Spyderco were just to use it in more of their standard models (e.g. Delica 4, Para 3, etc.).
Re: H1 vs. LC200n...Real World Observations
Lance, your video could not have come at a better time for me. I got my Caribbean just yesterday, and here I have my very same model subjected to some 30 days of hard-use in a challenging environment, and you rate the knife A+. Nice.
One question, though. As your edge deformed, did you wish you’d got an SE version? I’ve watched you fillet with an SE Pacific Salt. Was the VG10-like PE really as effective?
One question, though. As your edge deformed, did you wish you’d got an SE version? I’ve watched you fillet with an SE Pacific Salt. Was the VG10-like PE really as effective?
-Marc (pocketing an S110V Native5 today)
“When science changes its opinion, it didn’t lie to you. It learned more.”
“When science changes its opinion, it didn’t lie to you. It learned more.”