I tried running the edge against my thumb nail and didn't notice anything but when doing the same thing on a pen, I can see the slightest change in light reflection.awa54 wrote: ↑Mon Aug 06, 2018 4:18 pmInteresting that all of the folks chiming in with edge damage have re-set their edge bevels! I'm thinking that the problem is a wire edge that doesn't get cut off of the apex... Bruce Mack and blueblur, try running the blade past your thumb nail or a plastic ballpoint pen with the edge trailing and firm pressure, look carefully for the apex to be bent by that, if it is, then I think we all may have created wire edge, instead of a burr when sharpening.
When I re-re-profiled my Endura (now about 12.5DPS down from 15), I paid extra attention to this and now I don't see that tell-tale deflection when I try to cause it. Time will tell, but I'm not expecting to have the rippled/chipped edge issue again.
I figured out what caused my edge damage, it was debarking and whittling on a small piece of fully dried wood I cut out of an old rose bush, maybe not oak or rock maple, but certainly a dense and hard wood!
On the same subject I have a hand forged V2 gyuto (V-Toku2 is essentially V2 with the addition of tungsten and vanadium and the removal of copper), which rippled badly when I cut a crusty baguette (yeah, there's a reason bread knives exist!), the damage was very similar to what I saw on my Endura, but much less surprising, since it has a typical Japanese kitchen knife grind primary bevel of about 2DPS, with the apexed bevel angle being closer to 4 or 5DPS. Lesson learned: don't cut crusty bread with a razor blade, but if it's a V2 razor blade, expect it to bend before it breaks!
Bruce, so it sounds like what worked for you was using lighter pressure and finishing on each stone by using light trailing strokes? I'll give that a shot after I reset this bevel. Thanks for following up.