rolling vs. chipping

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steelcity16
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rolling vs. chipping

#1

Post by steelcity16 »

I was hoping we could gather everyone's experience with rolling vs. chipping with different steels and different blades. i havent chipped any spydercos yet, but my wife managed to chip a few of my old kershaw shun vg10 kitchen knives over the years. i now use german kitchen knives so i dont have to worry about it!

I know there have been complaints over the years of certain steels being chip prone (ive heard it about s30v, s110v, and zdp-189 to name a few), and certain steels have a reputation for being tougher like Cruwear and H1. And I know a lot ofnit depends on heat treat and blade geometry, so let's discuss specific models and steels and your experience with them. So let's hear it. which knives (model and steel) have you chipped and how did it happen, and which knives take the abuse and roll over without chipping??
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Re: rolling vs. chipping

#2

Post by TomAiello »

I've chipped the Manix 2 LW in s110v twice (not sure what I was cutting, actually--I just noticed while sharpening). I've also chipped the PM2 in s110v.

I've rolled my Southfork (s90v) without chipping it. I was cutting a piece of meat on the grill, and went through and dinged the actual metal of the grill.

I've cut copper wire with Maxamet (Manix 2) on multiple occasions without damage, and also cut roofing shingles (the kind with little rocks embedded in the tar) with M390 (PM2) without damage.

So far I've yet to damage Cruwear or 52100, but I haven't really put those through their paces like the others.
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Re: rolling vs. chipping

#3

Post by The Meat man »

I think a lot of it depends on how good you are at sharpening too. Case in point, I managed to put a pretty nasty chip in my CPM M4 Advocate while cutting some plastic strapping awhile back. Granted, the plastic was really tough but I was surprised to see that out of a steel that's supposed to be very tough and chip-resistant.

I had recently done a reprofiling job on it though, freehand, so I blame my less-than-perfect sharpening job, not the steel or the HT. I must have weakened the edge a bit somehow during the sharpening process.

It's not a big deal for me thankfully, and the chip will come out eventually after a few more sharpenings. (hopefully with a guided system this time)
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Re: rolling vs. chipping

#4

Post by The Meat man »

The other thing I sometimes hear about on the forum is that often, the fresh factory edge can be more chippy and brittle, and that this "chippiness" subsides as one sharpens past the initial factory edge.

My very limited experience does seem to bear this out. What do the rest of you think?
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steelcity16
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Re: rolling vs. chipping

#5

Post by steelcity16 »

No one else has experienced chipping or rolling? Maybe it is true that everyone on this forum only uses their knives to cut receipt paper and whittle hairs! :D

C'mon guys, share your battle scarred Spydercos. Pictures of chipping and rolling would be awesome!
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PStone
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Re: rolling vs. chipping

#6

Post by PStone »

Image


My s90v PPT rolled today. I was breaking down boxes and hit a staple. One of those big ol copper looking ones. This is the rolled edge because of it. Best pic I can get with my phone. The roll is going away from the camera and catching light from the left.
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Re: rolling vs. chipping

#7

Post by Bill1170 »

I put a chip in my M390 PM2 a few years ago, cutting the power cord off an old fridge at my mom’s house. By now it’s sharpened out, but I waited for maintenance to take care of it. It was at about 30 degrees inclusive. Cord was coarse stranded copper (mid-century fridge). No pics.
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Re: rolling vs. chipping

#8

Post by Pelagic »

Image

Not your typical "chip" but same idea. Very minor, but the tip only gently made contact with steel. Not even cpm cruwear is invincible.
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Re: rolling vs. chipping

#9

Post by jpm2 »

I've chipped and/or rolled every steel I've ever used.
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Archimedes
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Re: rolling vs. chipping

#10

Post by Archimedes »

steelcity16 wrote:
Thu Jun 07, 2018 8:04 am
No one else has experienced chipping or rolling? Maybe it is true that everyone on this forum only uses their knives to cut receipt paper and whittle hairs! :D

C'mon guys, share your battle scarred Spydercos. Pictures of chipping and rolling would be awesome!

I was once getting a Spyderco out of it's padded case and the serrations caught on the zipper and then I got a microchip. I almost collapsed. How could I flip it as new with such damage. I am in counseling for this disaster. Positive thoughts would be appreciated.
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Re: rolling vs. chipping

#11

Post by Bloke »

jpm2 wrote:
Thu Jun 07, 2018 5:58 pm
I've chipped and/or rolled every steel I've ever used.
And I thought I was the only one! Ah, hahaha! :)

Here’s my Sprig (S90V) with a tiny bit I snapped off the tip when I first got it probably smacking into the cutting board after muscling through fish bone and a few little chips from brain spiking a fish. :eek:

Notice the scratches on the blade too again from brain spiking. :rolleyes:

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curlyhairedboy
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Re: rolling vs. chipping

#12

Post by curlyhairedboy »

Good to hear about s90v rolling instead of chipping!
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guywithopinion
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Re: rolling vs. chipping

#13

Post by guywithopinion »

I just rolled H1 yesterday when I accidentally hit barbed wire when cutting back vines:

Image

Picture is via 10x loupe. It's hard to get a phone lined up where it's clear and actually 10x, but this picture was better than with no magnification.

I recall in a video about the Rock and Rock Salt, Ed Schempp mentioning H1 can be stropped back if the edge rolls, so it was a good steel in that you don't have to wear the steel away each time to sharpen it. I dunno if he meant in a case like this though. I could feel the metal sticking out on one side. I've never stropped before, but tried a few swipes up the back of an old leather belt and it just scratched the leather where the burr/roll is. I ended up knocking it off with a coarse Lansky stone, and then touching up the blade with the Sharpmaker. The part where the impact was isn't perfect, but I don't want to take off the metal down the whole edge just to fix that small area, or at least not until I'm done getting all that barbed wire up.
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Re: rolling vs. chipping

#14

Post by The Meat man »

Maybe a butcher's steel would've worked.
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Re: rolling vs. chipping

#15

Post by JonLeBlanc »

I’m not sure about rolling, maybe I’ve done it without noticing, but I have put a few very tiny chips on my PM2 S110V. They stropped right out on 6 micron dia-paste with minimal effort. I understand that S110V is supposed to be chippy/brittle, but aside from those very few and minor instances, S110V has in my experience been quite strong, and my piece sees a lot of varied use in my restaurant job and elsewhere.
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Re: rolling vs. chipping

#16

Post by guywithopinion »

The Meat man wrote:
Sun Jun 10, 2018 10:51 am
Maybe a butcher's steel would've worked.
You move the edge into a steel, just like with a sharpening stone, right? That's my understanding anyway. Vs a strop where you drag the edge away from the leather. I guess I'd think a steel would still just knock it off, unless it's common to move the edge the other way across them.
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Re: rolling vs. chipping

#17

Post by blendergasket »

I put a small chip in my cruwear pm2 when cutting s mushroom. I think I hit some pebbles in the sand. I have been having problems sharpening with very low grit stones on my kme. I chipped the heck out of my xhp manix lw and my 52100 manix. I've mostly fixed the 52100 but haven't bit into the xhp yet. I both rolled and chipped the xhp one. Rolled it when cutting Vines and chipped it when cutting csrpet. The vines roll was on the factory edge I think, and the chip was an edge put on by a knife store in PDX. That one is definitely the most finnicky.

I hope to have way fewer chips as I improve in sharpening.
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Re: rolling vs. chipping

#18

Post by ThePeacent »

guywithopinion wrote:
Sun Jun 10, 2018 9:11 am
I just rolled H1 yesterday when I accidentally hit barbed wire when cutting back vines:


Picture is via 10x loupe. It's hard to get a phone lined up where it's clear and actually 10x, but this picture was better than with no magnification.

I recall in a video about the Rock and Rock Salt, Ed Schempp mentioning H1 can be stropped back if the edge rolls, so it was a good steel in that you don't have to wear the steel away each time to sharpen it. I dunno if he meant in a case like this though. I could feel the metal sticking out on one side. I've never stropped before, but tried a few swipes up the back of an old leather belt and it just scratched the leather where the burr/roll is. I ended up knocking it off with a coarse Lansky stone, and then touching up the blade with the Sharpmaker. The part where the impact was isn't perfect, but I don't want to take off the metal down the whole edge just to fix that small area, or at least not until I'm done getting all that barbed wire up.

might find this mildly interesting

http://www.spyderco.com/forumII/viewtopic.php?t=41745

continuation of sorts:

viewtopic.php?t=68323&start=20
guywithopinion
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Re: rolling vs. chipping

#19

Post by guywithopinion »

That is interesting. Hopefully I'll never need to, but will try pushing the metal back if it happens again. It's also interesting to see people using the rock salt. I couldn't find much feedback on them.
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Re: rolling vs. chipping

#20

Post by ThePeacent »

guywithopinion wrote:
Mon Jun 11, 2018 8:24 pm
That is interesting. Hopefully I'll never need to, but will try pushing the metal back if it happens again. It's also interesting to see people using the rock salt. I couldn't find much feedback on them.

yes, unfortunately there is little feedback on using the Rock Salt out there in the forums, but this one is also oddly interesting: :spyder:

https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/lit ... lt.738645/
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