How to oil non-stainless steel?

[basedlarrydavid]

I picked up some Maxamet and CRUWEAR recently, along with some other things which are non-stainless. I also picked up some Frog Lube to treat the steels with to help them resist oxidation.

So my question is, how much oil (or in this case, Frog Lube) needs to be on the steel for it to protect and do its job? Does there need to be a visible coating that I can feel? Or does just warming the steel with a hairdryer, rubbing on some FL and wiping it off do the trick? Do I have to walk around with an oily-*** blade?

[Some1]

I picked up some Maxamet and CRUWEAR recently, along with some other things which are non-stainless. I also picked up some Frog Lube to treat the steels with to help them resist oxidation.

So my question is, how much oil (or in this case, Frog Lube) needs to be on the steel for it to protect and do its job? Does there need to be a visible coating that I can feel? Or does just warming the steel with a hairdryer, rubbing on some FL and wiping it off do the trick? Do I have to walk around with an oily-*** blade?

With froglube you don't need to have a lot of residue. Follow the directions (which it sounds like you're doing) and wipe off most of it. You'll see that there's still some on there but not a ridiculous amount or anything.

Be warned that the putty like froglube gums up washers in cold weather and in hot weather any excess stuff will liquify and run out of the pivot if you're using it as lube also. If it's the liquid froglube it fares a bit better. I used to use it but it ended up not being for me. I didn't like the negatives of the product despite the positives.

I now just keep it bare metal and make sure i clean and dry the blade regularly and have some damp 3,000 grit wet/dry sandpaper on hand (i don't mind the faint scratches) to combat any rust or occasionally use clp if i know the knife won't be used for awhile.

[allhatnocattle]

Depends on a couple things. For most cases a light coat of froglube or your lube of choice is sufficient. Some forum users have reccomended mineral oil because it is food safe although I believe Frog lube is non toxic. The other thing is enviroment if these are just to be stored in a safe or box one can be more liberal in the coating. However if you plan to edc these fine blades less is probably a good idea. With routine wipe downs after hard use being the best practice.

[basedlarrydavid]

With froglube you don't need to have a lot of residue. Follow the directions (which it sounds like you're doing) and wipe off most of it. You'll see that there's still some on there but not a ridiculous amount or anything.

Be warned that the putty like froglube gums up washers in cold weather and in hot weather any excess stuff will liquify and run out of the pivot if you're using it as lube also. If it's the liquid froglube it fares a bit better. I used to use it but it ended up not being for me. I didn't like the negatives of the product despite the positives.

Thanks for this. Yeah, I just picked up the Frog Lube as an anti-oxidation agent. A tube/vial of Nanolube 10-weight just arrived to my mailbox today, which will serve as actual lubrication. I'm planning to do my first disassembly/spa treatments on some of my knives, I think I've got everything I need.

Depends on a couple things. For most cases a light coat of froglube or your lube of choice is sufficient. Some forum users have reccomended mineral oil because it is food safe although I believe Frog lube is non toxic. The other thing is enviroment if these are just to be stored in a safe or box one can be more liberal in the coating. However if you plan to edc these fine blades less is probably a good idea. With routine wipe downs after hard use being the best practice.

I'll probably be EDCing some of these blades. I rarely use my knives on food/moist things, so I'm not super worried about acute oxidation after use. That said, I think part of EDCing a knife is preparedness, so if I need to use it to cut food, I'd like to have it protected. My real concern comes from living in Ohio, where I can pretty much expect to deal with 80-95% humidity for the next 5 months. Its that damp atmosphere that concerns me. The box I've been keeping my knives in has grown too small for my collection, so I'll probably be purchasing a Pelican case and I'll also install one of their Silica units to keep the wet out. The Pelicans themselves are supposedly water and airtight, so that setup should do the trick.

Also, for what its worth, Froglube is USDA "Biopreferred" using all food-grade ingredients. I'm not trying to shill for FrogLube, but I've heard great things. I've also heard that it's mostly coconut oil, so I've probably fallen victim to marketing.

[jpm2]

When I oil stuff, I never leave any residue to collect crud, be it guns, knives reels, tools, cast iron skillet, etc. Wipe till it seems dry. There will still be a protective coat.

[Evil D]

I use Vaseline, I wipe it on with my fingers and then try to wipe it back off with my bare fingers as much as I can. It leaves a very thin layer, just enough to finger print.

[Ruudr]

Just use some Ballistol oil. It’s foodsafe too. Works perfectly.

[fanglekai]

I use mineral oil on a rag. I dab a little on the rag and then rub it on the blade. I remove any excess with a dry part of the rag. Works well enough.

[The Mastiff]

I'll clean/treat the blade with something ( tuff glide now but whatever I have in stock at the house), dry it off and then paste wax it. It looks better, polishes the finish a bit and keeps the oxidation away. It works better for me than any grease or lube. I gave my frog lube away. I prefer Rennisance wax though the good car paste waxes will do also. I will not use anything that traps or collects grit so for the pivot and bearing surfaces on lockbacks I use a aerosol dry teflon lube mostly to keep any grease or oils from trapping grit. That is what will cause damages. Even running these knives dry of lube won't hurt them normally though we do have people who play with them like toys or 'fidget spinners". Some have claimed a thousand openings a day. Those may actually need lubes.

joe

[SF Native]

I use mineral oil on a rag. I dab a little on the rag and then rub it on the blade. I remove any excess with a dry part of the rag. Works well enough.

I do the same. My mineral oil is baby laxative or something from the drug store. Food safe, cheap, and easy to find in stores.

[Doc Dan]

I use Vaseline Petroleum Jelly. It is food safe. Basically, it is mineral oil with paraffin. The paraffin makes it stay on the blade. I live around sea air, in an equatorial jungle area. I stopped having corrosion issues when I went back to Vaseline. I apply it liberally, then wipe off all excess until the blade appears to be dry.

[EngDevGr3]

The froglube works great. Key is to make sure all other oils have been removed with alcohol etc., then apply with heat. Hairdryer works fine. I live in MS and carry Maxamet, m4 etc. as an edc with no patina formation. I keep a designated rag in a zip lock bag for application and use it to wipe the blade occasionally. Depending on the level of use, and what it is used for dictates the frequency. You don't have to be crazy about re wiping it, just be mindful based on use. Additionally, there is no need to re heat after initial application.

[JD Spydo]

A Company known as "Sentry Solutions" has a rust preventative product called "Tuf-Cloth" which I've had great luck with. They also have a "Marine Grade Tuf-Cloth" which is supposed to provide protection in salt water environments. I've used "Tuf-Cloth" throughout the years and I've had great luck with it being a corrosion preventative.

All you do is rub your blade down thoroughly about every two to three weeks depending on how much you use it. I've also used "Militec" oil and have had great luck with it as well.

[Stuart Ackerman]

Just use some Ballistol oil. It’s foodsafe too. Works perfectly.

And you can gargle with it if your throat is sore...and an antiseptic for cuts and grazes.
In bottle, tubes or spays...
Sorry that I may sound like a spammer, but I am just convinced that it is the best for lubes and protection of metals.

[Ruudr]

Just use some Ballistol oil. It’s foodsafe too. Works perfectly.

And you can gargle with it if your throat is sore...and an antiseptic for cuts and grazes.
In bottle, tubes or spays...
Sorry that I may sound like a spammer, but I am just convinced that it is the best for lubes and protection of metals.

Totaly true! I also use it when I have dry hands.

[Bloke]

I’ve been using Ballistol inside and out on fishing reels for about six months and so far so good. :cool:

Carbon steel folders I disassemble if the knife allows and give the blade a couple of coats of Eezox particularly at the pivot. Bitter experience has taught me it’s what you can’t see that’s likely to bite you on the butt sometime down the track. :eek:

[AGMartinez]

I prefer a blade with a corrosion-resistant wet sheen thats flicked off, theres more hydrophobic material to maintain that action. As long as it isnt saturating the grip or thumb-opener, I like a slightly oily blade, it dries in less than 100 hours.

For food prep, any food-based oils would do. Coconut, olive, cottonseed. In foodservice, the oil recommended for machinery is that type.