What did you use your Spyderco for last?

[Evil D]

This is accident recovery? A fantastic saw is the Bahco Laplander.

Yep. It's not an everyday thing but pretty common. Most of the time my job really isn't a "knife job" since there aren't things that need cut on a regular basis. Branches and weeds and the occasional busted up bumper cover are my most cut things, sometimes a thick ratchet strap will have to be cut but that's almost always a last resort since they're not something you want to be cutting up.

[Loki.88]

Opening the plastic blister holding my new wheel wrench.

[PeaceInOurTime]

Disposed of a full size, 8" thick, double layer foam mattress :)
Little knives can do big things, too :cool:

[vivi]

Used my Rex45 Chief to open the box for my M4 Chief :cool:

Then used the M4 Chief to open the box for another M4 Chief :cool:

Then used the M4 Chief.......

[Woodpuppy]

Well here’s what my yesterday afternoon entailed... now that we have hot water again, I’ve got a little time before recycling pickup on Thursday. I’m thinking fresh edges on the medium/brown stones on my CRUWEAR Millie and Z-Wear Shaman and see which I like better. The kids are still playing with the box for now :D

[JRinFL]

I just had to replace my water heater a couple of months back. Thank goodness for excellent Southern neighbors!

[PeaceInOurTime]

Cut scrambled eggs, strawberries, and spread peanut butter for the kids' breakfast :)

[sparty569]

Cutting open the package for my Mora Chisel.

[PeaceInOurTime]

Cut the kids' dinner.

[attila]

Photo op with a dark fishing spider and my newest screw conversion:

[northvanbamboo]

Photo op with a dark fishing spider and my newest screw conversion:951D86B4-8587-4E4E-B8F7-32765070765A.jpeg

Would you mind sharing the hardware size/alt website where did you get it? Looks like you weren't drilling it? Great job Attila

[z1r]

Cross posted but I think it really belonged here. Picked up this K390 Endela yesterday morning while getting my MT #29. Used it to cut up the two cardboard boxes that my Mom's 12.5'x8' shed was shipped in. The pieces filled half the recycling bin. Afterward, the front half of the blade would still slice paper cleanly. I did most of the cutting with the rear half of the blade and it would not slice paper cleanly.

I ended up with four piles about this size.



The bin doesn't really seem to adequately represent the size of the piles of cardboard pieces I cut, it was a lot!



Very happy with my decision.

[attila]

Photo op with a dark fishing spider and my newest screw conversion:951D86B4-8587-4E4E-B8F7-32765070765A.jpeg

Would you mind sharing the hardware size/alt website where did you get it? Looks like you weren't drilling it? Great job Attila

Sure thing!

They’re out of stock at the moment, but here’s the link:
https://usaknifemaker.com/pivot-barrel- ... bh-ss.html



What do you mean by this:

Looks like you weren't drilling it?

[ladybug93]

Photo op with a dark fishing spider and my newest screw conversion:951D86B4-8587-4E4E-B8F7-32765070765A.jpeg

do you have a thread dedicated to how to do this right? i'd love to know because it's literally the only thing i don't like about the manix lw.

[attila]

Photo op with a dark fishing spider and my newest screw conversion:951D86B4-8587-4E4E-B8F7-32765070765A.jpeg

do you have a thread dedicated to how to do this right? i'd love to know because it's literally the only thing i don't like about the manix lw.

Here’s the main active thread on BF:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/man ... n.1546282/

Pay attention to how each of us did it differently. There are nuances to each. The biggest one for me was not drilling out the two holes that don’t go through the lock housing bar. I wanted a press fit to retain them. I also have a near press fit of the third pivot barrel that goes through the lock housing bar.

Also, the lock housing bar, figure 8 mini liners, and rivets drilled like mild steel or maybe 304 stainless. It’s been repeated a lot that it’s hardened steel, but these that I worked on definitely didn’t act like hardened stainless.

With regard to the removal of the rivets, don’t force anything or try to punch them out until they are ready. The FRCP can crack easily, especially if unsupported under where you’re whacking it. The rivet through the lock housing bar may be stubborn, but don’t try punching it out while still in the FRCP. I have a tiny crack that started due to that slight error.

Lastly, have sharp bits and patience. Multiple conversion attempts have been botched by people not having patience. That can easily lead to wandering drill bits, overheated/melted FRCP, parts spinning in drill presses, etc.



I got the pivot barrels a couple of years ago and was waiting for a tool steel Manix LW to do it.

The one bummer I have in this project is the lock stick. It’s not even just a slight stick, and I don’t know how to fix it yet.

In search for Manix parts a while ago, I purchased an already converted 154CM-blade-in-dark-blue-S110V-frcp Manix LW, and I even experimented these last few days by swapping a lot of the parts between that and this Rex. None of the combinations were ideal, so I still have lock stick.

My theory is that I need a slightly bigger lock ball (0.190” instead of 0.187”), but bearing balls are so extremely precisely made that even a couple thousandth of an inch bigger isn’t available for purchase. Perhaps a slightly smaller ball would work. Idk

I just ordered some cheap silicon nitride balls from Amazon in hopes that the variability of cheap Chinese products might get me a couple thousandths of an inch to experiment with.

I have parts for 2 more conversions, but honestly, I hesitate to do another conversion until I better understand CBBL lock stick.

[ladybug93]

Photo op with a dark fishing spider and my newest screw conversion:951D86B4-8587-4E4E-B8F7-32765070765A.jpeg

do you have a thread dedicated to how to do this right? i'd love to know because it's literally the only thing i don't like about the manix lw.

Here’s the main active thread on BF:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/man ... n.1546282/

Pay attention to how each of us did it differently. There are nuances to each. The biggest one for me was not drilling out the two holes that don’t go through the lock housing bar. I wanted a press fit to retain them. I also have a near press fit of the third pivot barrel that goes through the lock housing bar.

Also, the lock housing bar, figure 8 mini liners, and rivets drilled like mild steel or maybe 304 stainless. It’s been repeated a lot that it’s hardened steel, but these that I worked on definitely didn’t act like hardened stainless.

With regard to the removal of the rivets, don’t force anything or try to punch them out until they are ready. The FRCP can crack easily, especially if unsupported under where you’re whacking it. The rivet through the lock housing bar may be stubborn, but don’t try punching it out while still in the FRCP. I have a tiny crack that started due to that slight error.

Lastly, have sharp bits and patience. Multiple conversion attempts have been botched by people not having patience. That can easily lead to wandering drill bits, overheated/melted FRCP, parts spinning in drill presses, etc.



I got the pivot barrels a couple of years ago and was waiting for a tool steel Manix LW to do it.

The one bummer I have in this project is the lock stick. It’s not even just a slight stick, and I don’t know how to fix it yet.

In search for Manix parts a while ago, I purchased an already converted 154CM-blade-in-dark-blue-S110V-frcp Manix LW, and I even experimented these last few days by swapping a lot of the parts between that and this Rex. None of the combinations were ideal, so I still have lock stick.

My theory is that I need a slightly bigger lock ball (0.190” instead of 0.187”), but bearing balls are so extremely precisely made that even a couple thousandth of an inch bigger isn’t available for purchase. Perhaps a slightly smaller ball would work. Idk

I just ordered some cheap silicon nitride balls from Amazon in hopes that the variability of cheap Chinese products might get me a couple thousandths of an inch to experiment with.

I have parts for 2 more conversions, but honestly, I hesitate to do another conversion until I better understand CBBL lock stick.

thanks for the link. i think this forum could use a thread on this as well. i was also going to ask if you've tried a ceramic ball. maybe that would help?

[attila]

Photo op with a dark fishing spider and my newest screw conversion:951D86B4-8587-4E4E-B8F7-32765070765A.jpeg

do you have a thread dedicated to how to do this right? i'd love to know because it's literally the only thing i don't like about the manix lw.

Here’s the main active thread on BF:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/man ... n.1546282/

Pay attention to how each of us did it differently. There are nuances to each. The biggest one for me was not drilling out the two holes that don’t go through the lock housing bar. I wanted a press fit to retain them. I also have a near press fit of the third pivot barrel that goes through the lock housing bar.

Also, the lock housing bar, figure 8 mini liners, and rivets drilled like mild steel or maybe 304 stainless. It’s been repeated a lot that it’s hardened steel, but these that I worked on definitely didn’t act like hardened stainless.

With regard to the removal of the rivets, don’t force anything or try to punch them out until they are ready. The FRCP can crack easily, especially if unsupported under where you’re whacking it. The rivet through the lock housing bar may be stubborn, but don’t try punching it out while still in the FRCP. I have a tiny crack that started due to that slight error.

Lastly, have sharp bits and patience. Multiple conversion attempts have been botched by people not having patience. That can easily lead to wandering drill bits, overheated/melted FRCP, parts spinning in drill presses, etc.



I got the pivot barrels a couple of years ago and was waiting for a tool steel Manix LW to do it.

The one bummer I have in this project is the lock stick. It’s not even just a slight stick, and I don’t know how to fix it yet.

In search for Manix parts a while ago, I purchased an already converted 154CM-blade-in-dark-blue-S110V-frcp Manix LW, and I even experimented these last few days by swapping a lot of the parts between that and this Rex. None of the combinations were ideal, so I still have lock stick.

My theory is that I need a slightly bigger lock ball (0.190” instead of 0.187”), but bearing balls are so extremely precisely made that even a couple thousandth of an inch bigger isn’t available for purchase. Perhaps a slightly smaller ball would work. Idk

I just ordered some cheap silicon nitride balls from Amazon in hopes that the variability of cheap Chinese products might get me a couple thousandths of an inch to experiment with.

I have parts for 2 more conversions, but honestly, I hesitate to do another conversion until I better understand CBBL lock stick.

thanks for the link. i think this forum could use a thread on this as well. i was also going to ask if you've tried a ceramic ball. maybe that would help?

I sure hope it helps!

[The Meat man]

Making a fresh fruit salad. Blueberries not pictured.

[TkoK83Spy]

Looks like someone got hungry before the fruit was cut and took a few bites out of that cutting board! :D

[The Meat man]

Looks like someone got hungry before the fruit was cut and took a few bites out of that cutting board! :D

Lol! :D