Steel that takes the keenest (sharpest) edge?

[ZrowsN1s]

For me, Maxamet holds the 10/10 "extreme" sharpness the longest.

Actually, I have a couple customs that are on that same level--both Phil Wilson knives. One is a B&T in Elmax, which isn't known for edge retention, but which I use every day, and which I'd put near the same class as my Maxamet Manix 2. The other is a K390 Smoke Creek, which I'd say is well beyond the Manix 2 Maxamet. The only real reason to point that out is to show that it's not really possible to discuss edge retention as a function of the steel only. There are too many other variables to consider.

I get what you're saying. Heat treat and other things matter. I usually try to eliminate those variables and simplify things a little by discussing these things in terms of Spyderco products. i.e. 'Spyderco production heat treated' steel 'X', in the shape of a Syderco 'X'. Much easier to compare wear resistance, edge retention, ease of sharpening that way. Once you get into customs (like Phil Wilsons) it's hard to speak in general terms about any steels performance. But yes I am aware that different heat treatments play a huge role in performance.

[Mattz83]

Maybe one of the razor blade steels like AEB-L. Basic, high hardness carbon steels will be high on the list, as will cruwear, m4, 4v, etc.

I'm drawing a blank on which ones have a finer grain structure right now.

I find aeb-l sharpens to razor sharp in minutes, I keep torture testing one of my blades and in no time its back to splitting hairs!

[marty_bill_]

As many have stated my PM2 with 52100 just gets so sharp for me. Just really dig it. And I don't mind the patina at all. I like it. Just my .02

[sal]

Hi Mattz,

Welcome to our forum.

sal

[Bill1170]

52100 in my experience takes the keenest edge.

[Tucson Tom]

52100 in my experience takes the keenest edge.

You can say that again!! Next best thing is Cruwear aka PD1.

[Blnd]

ZDP-189 always eluded me when it came to a sharp edge. I just could never get it where I wanted it. Likely user error.

I can get VG-10 hair popping sharp - but it only lasts for a week or less.

My FRN chaparral (CTS XHP) is still stupid stupid sharp, and I think it should be relatively easy to maintain it at that level.

I don’t think I’ve ever had a factory edge in S30V that I liked, but it wasn’t too terrible to make it plenty sharp and it kept it for a suitable amount of time.

[elena86]

N690Co, CTS-CHP, H1

[kerrcobra]

Superblue & 52100

[JRinFL]

AEB-L is meant to respond very much the same as 52100 with added benefits of being stainless and a bit tougher. There is much to love in AEB-L, but it gets derided as a steel for disposable razor blades.

[Pancake]

I know this is an older topic, but I would argue that if you want the keenest possible edge, I would look into steel that are straight razors made from. And for the most part, they are just basic carbon steel, 10xx, O1 and such. For stainless, 12c27 and AEB-L are also used for razors.
Straight razors are honed around 17 °inclusive, not per side (!). So, IMO, if you want the steel that can support such a edge, I would look into low carbide clean alloys, such as basic carbon steels.

[BLUETYPEII]

Personally my Manix 2 Lightweight S110V has the sharpest edge of any knife I own or have ever owned. How do you all think S110V stacks up against all of the tool steels (like Rex 45 or M4) that are so popular?

[vivi]

Personally my Manix 2 Lightweight S110V has the sharpest edge of any knife I own or have ever owned. How do you all think S110V stacks up against all of the tool steels (like Rex 45 or M4) that are so popular?

I've sharpened three S110V knives and while I got them sharp, I have an easier time sharpening M4 and K390.

[Wartstein]

I know this is an older topic, but I would argue that if you want the keenest possible edge, I would look into steel that are straight razors made from. And for the most part, they are just basic carbon steel, 10xx, O1 and such. For stainless, 12c27 and AEB-L are also used for razors.
....

I just wanted to mention O1 anyway when I saw your post.
The O1 knife you gifted to me takes the keenest edge of all knives I have. And that extremly quick and easy.

[benben]

I have a Sharpmaker with just the standard rods, I have learned to use it quite well and I'd say I'm an above average sharpener, maybe? :D

I can get VG-10 screaming sharp, it's just the easiest for me just like it is for a lot of people. The weird thing for me about S110V is, I feel like I can't / don't get it anywhere near as sharp as VG-10.....but it still cuts like crazy, it just never passes the "oh crap" thumb touch test!

[kobold]

Personally my Manix 2 Lightweight S110V has the sharpest edge of any knife I own or have ever owned. How do you all think S110V stacks up against all of the tool steels (like Rex 45 or M4) that are so popular?

https://youtu.be/PzIEuz0ogoE[BBvideo=560,315]

[Wartstein]

I know this is an older topic, but I would argue that if you want the keenest possible edge, I would look into steel that are straight razors made from. And for the most part, they are just basic carbon steel, 10xx, O1 and such. For stainless, 12c27 and AEB-L are also used for razors.
...

I mentioned in my previous post that out of all knives I own the O1 fixed blade you gifted to me takes the keenest edge (and that very quickly and easily).
Now I found this on O1 steel (see quote below, here is the link I quoted from: http://hocktools.com/tech-info/o1-vs-a2.html)
Can you or others who know more about steels than I do confirm what is said there about O1?

"O1, a simple high carbon tool steel with very little added to the iron/steel alloy other than 1.1% manganese. That pinch of Mn allows the steel to harden with an oil quench (the “O” in O1 stands for Oil.) Oil removes heat more slowly than water, reducing the thermal shock that occurs when orange-hot steel is plunged into water. Reducing that thermal shock minimizes the risk of cracking or distortion in the hardened piece. With an alloy as simple as O1, containing so few alloying elements, the hardened grain structure is as fine as possible which allows honing to the sharpest possible edge."

[Pancake]

Can you or others who know more about steels than I do confirm what is said there about O1?

I am no expert, but the description is right.
O1 is very simple steel with very few alloying elements. But the few elements, like a bit of Mn and hint of Cr makes it oil-hardening. 1095, which is very similar in C to O1, has none Cr and very little Mn, and it is water-hardening. Water-quench is kinda violent, and kinda dangerous. Oil quench is safer for a user and the steel has less chance of cracking and so on.

Simple steels like O1, 1095, White steel, Blue steel are very simple, but at high hardness they take a very nice edge. No, they will not keep it for a long time, but the edge is very nice.

[Deadboxhero]

I know this is an older topic, but I would argue that if you want the keenest possible edge, I would look into steel that are straight razors made from. And for the most part, they are just basic carbon steel, 10xx, O1 and such. For stainless, 12c27 and AEB-L are also used for razors.
...

I mentioned in my previous post that out of all knives I own the O1 fixed blade you gifted to me takes the keenest edge (and that very quickly and easily).
Now I found this on O1 steel (see quote below, here is the link I quoted from: http://hocktools.com/tech-info/o1-vs-a2.html)
Can you or others who know more about steels than I do confirm what is said there about O1?

"O1, a simple high carbon tool steel with very little added to the iron/steel alloy other than 1.1% manganese. That pinch of Mn allows the steel to harden with an oil quench (the “O” in O1 stands for Oil.) Oil removes heat more slowly than water, reducing the thermal shock that occurs when orange-hot steel is plunged into water. Reducing that thermal shock minimizes the risk of cracking or distortion in the hardened piece. With an alloy as simple as O1, containing so few alloying elements, the hardened grain structure is as fine as possible which allows honing to the sharpest possible edge."

I don't feel that's something unique to O1 in particular, I think the lower alloy carbon steels are quite easy to sharpen in general and that small differences in heat treatment and geometry are more significant factors then O1 vs 52100 etc

[Wartstein]

Can you or others who know more about steels than I do confirm what is said there about O1?

I am no expert, but the description is right.
O1 is very simple steel with very few alloying elements. But the few elements, like a bit of Mn and hint of Cr makes it oil-hardening. 1095, which is very similar in C to O1, has none Cr and very little Mn, and it is water-hardening. Water-quench is kinda violent, and kinda dangerous. Oil quench is safer for a user and the steel has less chance of cracking and so on.

Simple steels like O1, 1095, White steel, Blue steel are very simple, but at high hardness they take a very nice edge. No, they will not keep it for a long time, but the edge is very nice.

I don't feel that's something unique to O1 in particular, I think the lower alloy carbon steels are quite easy to sharpen in general and that small differences in heat treatment and geometry are more significant factors then O1 vs 52100 etc

Thanks, guys! :)
Somehow a more traditional style O1 Spyderco would be cool...