KnifeCenter Exclusive CPM-Cruwear Paramilitary 2

[GH9000]

Got mine yesterday! Perfect fit and finish on it.

Got mine on Monday. Perfect specimen as well.

[GarageBoy]

So many options at once - native 5 m4, this, 52100 pm2... Maybe I should get an edge pro and sharpen better first

[Tucson Tom]

Did you ...

I normally run my ultra fine tri-stone over the pivot area inside of the liners and over the pivot area of the blade. I found no burrs. Also run the washers over the stone.

But there was something shinny (threadlocker?) under the original position of the clip, and between the liners and scales on both sides. I wasn't able to remove it with alcohol. Had to scrape it off from the scales. What ever it was, it found its way between the pivot barrel and the pivot hole on the blade. The blade wasn't moving freely, and was difficult to remove from the pivot. Cleaned it out, and all was good.

I am always happy when I can fix something simple myself. I hate returning things -- or putting up with something that ain't right.

[Tucson Tom]

I have mine now. Probably the sharpest blade I have ever gotten from the factory. I do like sharp knives.

The smooth G10 is something different on a big knife. I have the KC green linerless native, and that is my first smooth G10 knife. I like it on the little native, but was a little unsure about it on the PM2, but it is growing on me. It will certainly be easier on pockets, not that that has been an issue with the sort of pants I like to wear (levis or some other stout fabric). Then I reflect on the the knives of my youth that all had smooth handles. If it starts slipping or flying out of my hands when I don't expect it, I will have to rethink it. So far so good though.

A very nice knife. I am excited to finally have some Cruwear in my hands. As sharp as this is now, and from what everyone says about it, I think I am really going to like this a lot. Already carrying it on a regular basic, cutting straps on bales and whatever comes along. I expect Cruwear to be tough stuff and will be less inclined to baby and/or worry about it like I do 52100.

[Cycletroll]

Good feedback.

[steelcity16]

Glad to see Cruwear make an appearance in 2018. Probably won't grab this one as I am in the process of scale swapping two older Cruwear PM2s to give them Red and Blurple scales. Would love to see Cruwear in some other knives though. I'd be a buyer of any new Native (G10 or LW), Manix Backlock, Manix LW, Lil Native, Shaman, Millie, or Para 3 in Cruwear. Already have a few of the regular Manix in Cruwear so would probably pass on those.

I really wish either Spyderco would make Cruwear a production steel with some kind of interesting G10 scale color (semi-translucent smoke grey, semi-translucent dark green) in all of the golden made folders. Or short of that some distributor should do a line of exclusive like BHQ is doing with the Jade/M4.

[EngDevGr3]

These scales feel nice, but they are definitely not ideal if you are going to carry and use it. I made it 2 days before dropping it. Well, off to repair a tip then rough the scales up a bit...

[jpm2]

I expect Cruwear to be tough stuff and will be less inclined to baby and/or worry about it like I do 52100.

You baby 52100 over concerns of toughness?

[Tucson Tom]

I expect Cruwear to be tough stuff and will be less inclined to baby and/or worry about it like I do 52100.

You baby 52100 over concerns of toughness?

No! I mean yes! Well, I'm not sure how to answer this. When I say "baby", what I mean is that when I have "real work" (TM) to do and reach for the knife in my pocket and it is one of my 52100 knives, I tend to cringe a little. I don't feel this way about the Cruwear. Maybe I am misguided -- and I am always open to bein' learned at by somebody. So that is just me at this stage.

But as for toughness, I am still trying to get my own concept of what this means. I am probably wrong at this stage, but here is how I think. I have a big fixed blade knife from Ontario Knife made from 5160. I figure I can use it for a crowbar. Baton bears with it (whatever "batoning" is) and in general use it as a heavy duty tool without any guilty feelings. So my concept of toughness is "you can get away with doing things you should never do" with a particular knife. I don't think any folding knife should be used as a prying tool (i.e. crowbar). Maybe gentle delicate prying. I expect a lot of the steels that are good for folding knives will just snap if abused this way.

But maybe I need a new concept of toughness, and here is where I invite some schooling from all you experts. Maybe I should be thinking of micro toughness and "edge strength" in some way I am not thinking yet. Like what happens if you are cutting up a box with vigor and hit a staple. Is that what toughness is about?

[Tucson Tom]

These scales feel nice, but they are definitely not ideal if you are going to carry and use it. I made it 2 days before dropping it. Well, off to repair a tip then rough the scales up a bit...

Skateboard tape. It would be a crime. I need to get me some !

[EngDevGr3]

I wanted to clarify my previous post. The Cruwear took the fall like a champ. It didn't chip. It was a direct hit into a hardwood floor, and it was a slight bend. Very slight. But I use my tip on my knives, so I needed to fix it. And it is fixed now. You wouldn't know anything had ever happened to it at this point. Still don't like how slick the scales are, haha. I think I may wet sand with high grit sandpaper.

[jpm2]

I expect Cruwear to be tough stuff and will be less inclined to baby and/or worry about it like I do 52100.

You baby 52100 over concerns of toughness?

No! I mean yes! Well, I'm not sure how to answer this. When I say "baby", what I mean is that when I have "real work" (TM) to do and reach for the knife in my pocket and it is one of my 52100 knives, I tend to cringe a little. I don't feel this way about the Cruwear. Maybe I am misguided -- and I am always open to bein' learned at by somebody. So that is just me at this stage.

But as for toughness, I am still trying to get my own concept of what this means. I am probably wrong at this stage, but here is how I think. I have a big fixed blade knife from Ontario Knife made from 5160. I figure I can use it for a crowbar. Baton bears with it (whatever "batoning" is) and in general use it as a heavy duty tool without any guilty feelings. So my concept of toughness is "you can get away with doing things you should never do" with a particular knife. I don't think any folding knife should be used as a prying tool (i.e. crowbar). Maybe gentle delicate prying. I expect a lot of the steels that are good for folding knives will just snap if abused this way.

But maybe I need a new concept of toughness, and here is where I invite some schooling from all you experts. Maybe I should be thinking of micro toughness and "edge strength" in some way I am not thinking yet. Like what happens if you are cutting up a box with vigor and hit a staple. Is that what toughness is about?

I was just curious because 52100 has proven to be one of the tougher blade steels I've used.

I don't have a cruwear blade so no direct comparison, but do have the similar zwear. Couldn't say which is tougher because I regularly damage the edges on most of my knives, including those with these two steels. But for rough use, I have no problem grabbing either one.

It would be interesting to see a test of how damage resistant they are, compared to each other.

Forgot to add, my understanding of toughness is resistance to fracture.

[Tucson Tom]

But for rough use, I have no problem grabbing either one.

..... my understanding of toughness is resistance to fracture.

I find this reassuring from someone who has used 52100 for "hard use". And indeed, on the first day I was carrying my new 52100 PM2 I was at a friends house helping him unload and move a big bandsaw that a truck delivered. This involved cutting off cardboard, and wouldn't you know it, there were some unexpected staples. The blade was dulled, but I would not say damaged, at least I was able to get it back into fine shape with the sharpmaker.

I think your definition of toughness matches mine. Resistance to fracture. I sort of equate it with brittleness and figure that the harder a knife steel gets the less tough it is likely to be. But I get the feeling that some steels at equal rockwell hardness will be tougher, and if this is right, there is more going on. I suspect that M4 and probably Cruwear are of this sort -- they retain toughness when made quite hard, but I am just speculating and blowing smoke.

The real question is what does toughness mean to me when using a knife for "real work" (TM). All this egghead talk needs to be brought down to where the rubber meets the road (or the blade meets the banding strap).

[knivesandbooks]

The real question is what does toughness mean to me when using a knife for "real work" (TM). All this egghead talk needs to be brought down to where the rubber meets the road (or the blade meets the banding strap).

I think you pointed out very well what it means in your last post. In rough use that will in some way deform the edge, a tough steel will not chip, or will chip less. It may bend at the edge but a portion of that edge will not break off. Which means you just need to touch it up. A less tough steel will chip, meaning a full sharpening will be required to remove the chips out of the edge. And that means losing quite a bit of steel.

[HarleyXJGuy]

So many options at once - native 5 m4, this, 52100 pm2... Maybe I should get an edge pro and sharpen better first

Sharpen better first is a great answer but not as fun as new Spydies.

[The Mastiff]

Cruwear is a pretty tough steel. Especially compared to the high carbide high wear stainless steels. This Para 2 is a fairly thin edge designed for a lot of slicing and isn't really set up for very heavy work. I agree with Tuscon Tom. It is one of the sharper knives I've ever bought whether custom or production.In fact it's pretty amazing. I'd say it's CNC controlled it's so even and accurate. It's a "hair whittling" out of the box if that is possible. The last Cruwear Para 2 and 3 were amazing too. I"d say they are substantially sharper than any Japan made model I've ever had.

There are no imperfections anywhere that my eyes can find. This is a knife valued higher than it's cost taking the current market into consideration. The grips are smoother than I expected but that isn't a fault or a problem. Just good craftsmanship. The finish on the blade is pretty high too for such a wear resistant steel. I suppose they have learned a thing or three when working on steels like S110V and Maxamet. Powder steel Cruwear probably finishes easily compared to those super high carbide steels.

Thanks for another well made knife Spyderco and Knifecenter. Hopefully I will get to see a lockback Cruwear knife made this well.

Joe

[knivesandbooks]

I just got mine in! I'm very impressed with everything about it. Yes, it is a little boring aesthetically compared to some other sprints/exclusives, but this one may end up being my favorite PM2 and will definetly be a daily user for me-- which will be nice becuase ive neglectedbthe pm2 model lately. I quite like the handled. I love the steel. It came extremely sharp and has the best action out if the box of any PM2 I've purchased.

[Pelagic]

Wow... This is one of the nicest knives I've ever held.

[Pelagic]

Just switched my pocket clip BACK to TIP DOWN.

I've been carrying a Military for so long, I attributed this merely to habit. But it's actually MUCH less awkward to deploy, and deployment is MUCH faster. With tip up, I have to significantly alter my grip to spydie flick the knife open. With tip down, i pinch the pivot with my thumb and forefinger to bring the knife out of the pocket, and all I do is lessen the grip and allow the knife to fall straight down and it's already in position.

This is really puzzling me. I know most people prefer tip up, but I'd assume most of them spydie flick also... and I don't see how tip up could possibly be better. The detent is plenty strong enough on this pm2 to prevent accidental opening, and it doesn't free fall when the lock is disengaged (I prefer this, I don't like it free swinging). What am I missing?

[The Meat man]

Just switched my pocket clip BACK to TIP DOWN.

I've been carrying a Military for so long, I attributed this merely to habit. But it's actually MUCH less awkward to deploy, and deployment is MUCH faster. With tip up, I have to significantly alter my grip to spydie flick the knife open. With tip down, i pinch the pivot with my thumb and forefinger to bring the knife out of the pocket, and all I do is lessen the grip and allow the knife to fall straight down and it's already in position.

This is really puzzling me. I know most people prefer tip up, but I'd assume most of them spydie flick also... and I don't see how tip up could possibly be better. The detent is plenty strong enough on this pm2 to prevent accidental opening, and it doesn't free fall when the lock is disengaged (I prefer this, I don't like it free swinging). What am I missing?

I think it all comes down to one thing: what you're used to. If you're used to tip up, then that will seem the easiest and most natural way; vice versa if you're used to tip down.

For me, I don't have a strong preference one way or the other. I carried a Kershaw knife tip down for 8 years before I acquired my first tip-up Spydie. It was a little awkward at first, but after a week of carry I got used to it.

Now I've been carrying a Millie the past couple weeks so I'm back where I started. :) But I can carry tip up or down interchangeably without difficulty.