Help me choose a steel for copper/aluminum wire skinning/stripping

[500Nitro]

That middle photo sends shivers up my spine!

[murphjd25]

I’ve had good luck using S30V and SE H1 for stripping wires. I usually use wire strippers though.

[Donut]

That middle photo sends shivers up my spine!

It isn't an energized wire.

[jpm2]

For tasks that stress the edge, and need a long lasting fine edge, M4 is my choice of presently available commercial blade steels. 2nd choice maxamet, 3rd hap40.

[500Nitro]

That middle photo sends shivers up my spine!

It isn't an energized wire.

It wasn't the electricity, it's cutting towards himself.

[razorsharp]

All the knives you bought are more than capable of the job. Never had issues with cutting copper , weather it be 420A or K390

[ThePeacent]

That middle photo sends shivers up my spine!

It isn't an energized wire.

It wasn't the electricity, it's cutting towards himself.

hahah stole my words!
I also at the pic especially knowing how sharp Spydercos come

[Donut]

That middle photo sends shivers up my spine!

It isn't an energized wire.

It wasn't the electricity, it's cutting towards himself.

hahah stole my words!
I also at the pic especially knowing how sharp Spydercos come

I usually think that if you think about what you're doing, it shouldn't be as dangerous.

With most cutting, what you're cutting doesn't move and only the blade is moving. If you're cutting something that is movable towards yourself, you can hold the knife still and move what you're cutting. A stationary knife is not too likely to jump at you to cut you.

[zhyla]

Wire core is copper, much softer than steel too, so cutting wire also can be done easily.

That's a good way to chip your edge. Copper isn't that soft.

I think I'd err on the side of sharpenability. No supersteel is going to survive this sort of work unscathed. You don't want anything that has even a hint of chippiness, so S30V is out.

Honestly, I think I'd go with 8Cr13MoV if you can find something you like. Easy to sharpen. Cheap enough you don't care too much when something goes wrong. A step up from that is probably H1. I've never used H1 but I hear it's a breeze to sharpen.

[Onsharry]

Thank you everyone for your responses!

[anagarika]

Wire core is copper, much softer than steel too, so cutting wire also can be done easily.

That's a good way to chip your edge. Copper isn't that soft.

I think I'd err on the side of sharpenability. No supersteel is going to survive this sort of work unscathed. You don't want anything that has even a hint of chippiness, so S30V is out.

Honestly, I think I'd go with 8Cr13MoV if you can find something you like. Easy to sharpen. Cheap enough you don't care too much when something goes wrong. A step up from that is probably H1. I've never used H1 but I hear it's a breeze to sharpen.

In a controlled manner, cutting copper isn’t that hard, but OP mentioned using it daily at work, which includes human factor, fatigue, time constraints, etc. When working, the cut can include in lateral forces, so the danger of chipping is likely there.

8Cr can do well (Spyderco or Byrd), H1 will be better I think. Upgrades are VG10 and (thanks Lance) M4 might be good at 30° bevel with 40°microbevel. I think Seki’s VG10 isn’t brought to highest hardness (slightly softer than peak) to cater for such EDU role.