Spyderco Forums

Tom Horn wrote: ↑

Thu Nov 01, 2018 9:17 am

I was hoping someone could provide me with more info on HatchetHawk's unique concave/convex edge.
1. Has this edge been done before?
2. Is there somewhere I can find the designer talking about the theory/concept/use of this 'hawk?
3. If this has been discussed before, could you point me to a link?

Thanks.

@Ookami

The poster above you is the designer. :spyder:

Thanks Dirt,

I found Mr. Oookami's post on pg. 3, I believe, that answered some of my questions. Love this hatchet! I have only used it one time, and noted while splitting wood, that it was producing uniform oak planks I could have ran thru a planner, and hung as shelves. Don't know if it was a freak, or, attributable to HatchetHawk's head design. ? I'm hurrying thru chores today, so I can go out to the fire pit and mess around with this fine tool some more. It is a joy to use. I'm a kid, again.

Tom Horn wrote: ↑

Thu Nov 01, 2018 11:09 am

[...] Love this hatchet! I have only used it one time [...] it was producing uniform oak planks [...] It is a joy to use. I'm a kid, again.

I could - and during the development process actually did - write pages about the intricacies of the design, but it seems to me that you already know the really important stuff if the hatchet works that well for you.

Speaking of knowledge: When I met Eric years ago at the IWA in Nürnberg and wondered how they managed to make most of their handles fit my hand like a bespoke glove, he answered with a chuckle that they had to keep some secrets. So yeah, some details may forever be shrouded in mystery, but you can take a deep dive into the beginning of the project and some of the design philosophy by reading a bit of the thread that gave rise to the HatchetHawk:
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=19908


Ookami

Thanks Ookami,

I will check out the thread. One more thing: How do you maintain the edge? I usually use a axe puck sharpener on my convex edged axes/hatchets, but I've never owned a carving axe (vee grind), so I am unfamiliar with sharpening technique for the concave grind side of head. Nice spoons! Did you only use HatchetHawk, or, did you finish them up wih a carving knife? I want to try that when I have the appropriate wood. Thanks again.

I mostly use a pocket stone or a puck to maintain the edge bevel (followed by a loaded strop if I want to use it for carving); until now I haven't had the need to use a file. I've only sharpened the bevel, and, unless I run into a major mishap that takes out a chunk of the edge, I don't forsee the need to re-grind the concave anytime soon.

If you should ever reach the point at which you would need to reprofile the concave, you have a few options:
1) Use a file or emery paper to work on the concave manually. When using emery paper, you can make a support from wood that matches the concave. With files you need to be quite proficient, but it can be done.
2) Put the concave to a grinding wheel (or a beltsander with appropriate radius) and thin it down - if you don't have the equipment, I'm sure the Spyderco sharpening service will help you out; alternatively, everybody with a grinder who knows how to use it can help you.
3) Have the edge drawn out and re-hardened/tempered by a smith, but that will surely void the warranty. Follow up with step 1) or 2).

As for the spoons; you can't carve them all the way to their final shape with an axe, not even with the HatchetHawk. However, the bulk of the wood - I'd say easily 90% - was removed with the HatchetHawk. The closer you can work down to the final shape with the axe the less work you have to do with knife and hook knife. That's where the balance and precision of the HatchetHawk comes in - because the last thing want is to ruin your spoon blank with a missed blow when you are already close to the final dimensions.


Ookami

Thanks again, Ookami.

I have printed out your instructions for maintaining edge/sharpening for future reference. All makes sense. I also came across this web pg from Tim Manney, Chairmaker, that seems a good reference if it ever gets to the point where i have to re-profile concave edge: http://timmanneychairmaker.blogspot.com ... nding.html
After two hard use outings, edge has remained pristine. I think they got the heat treatment/edge geometry right.

Thanks for link to beginning history/philosophy. I'm even more impressed after seeing all the input, collaboration, and R&D that went into HatchetHawk. You, and all involved, should be very proud. There is nothing that compares to this versatile bushcrafting tool. I'll be watching for your future designs.

Best Regards,

Tom

Hey all, Are there any new reports or info about this hatchet that I've missed? I REALLY would have expected some of the more popular youtubers to have done some in-depth testing and reviews with this model by now. I've been checking occasionally for new videos or other info about it, but haven't found any. Maybe I should make a video for it if/when I get one? It seems like such a neat design, I'd hate for it to be discontinued before it got a wide enough audience to be appreciated as much as I am guessing it deserves!! (I have a massive amount of firewood I could experiment on, in case Spyderco could use a tester to help create content to help others realize the potential awesomeness of this product.)

I'm still very interested in getting one and I am pretty sure I will eventually. The current price just feels a little bit too much of a stretch for me since it isn't a crucial need. Did you ever get another one that wasn't "cosmetically" flawed Bodog?? I sure hope so.

(Looking back it's kinda sad how this thread worked out since Bodog was the guy to start this thread and get a lot of hype building behind the model I'd guess with all this discussion. Yet he never seemed to end up with a "first quality" one to keep and use!) I sure wish I could have scored one at the 2nd's sale last month!!! Even though they didn't come with the sheath that was such an awesome score to all those who managed to get one then! Super jealous of those of you who made it to that sale. Next year I am going to try to make it for my first time ever!

Mine looks great and is sharp as **** but I won't have a chance to put it to use till it's summer again.

I received a Hatchethawk the other day. Everything looks great, except 5 marks on one side of the blade. They’re pinhead-sized and are small holes. Not sure if they're pitting marks or manufacturing defects?

Looks like hardness test marks.

jpm2 wrote: ↑

Sun Dec 23, 2018 5:29 pm

Looks like hardness test marks.

My first thoughts as well, they all look about the same size.

Still seems like it should've have been noticed during quality control. :confused:

jpm2 wrote: ↑

Sun Dec 23, 2018 5:29 pm

Looks like hardness test marks.

That's what I thought. Maybe it was tested from a batch and mistakenly sent off to production. Put it on eBay as a "rare" steel tested Spyderco for like $400 or maybe return it. :confused:

Still wonder what rc it is!
Genuine question as I find the 5160 from ct disappointing as they do not get the best from the steel

In regards to the marks on the hatchet, I dont know what they are in this case but its not unusual for tools to be sold with the hardness testing marks.
Ive seen quality German knives with the hardness testing mark and a peel off label pointing to it and explaining what it is hence not something 'which should be caught during quality control' nor was the tool in question 'mistakenly sent off to production.'
I repeat; I dont know what the markings are on the Spyderco and my point is merely to illustrate, that hardness testing marks are (IMO) fully acceptable and in fact a sign of a hatchet/knife/tool maker doing their job (if hardness testing marks are what they are).

Now go use the snot out of that hatchet and put some wear marks on it.

If you use that Hatchet as it was intended those marks will be nothing compared to the new ones. My Gransfors Bruks hatchet has all kinds of scale mark from the forging process, but it didn't make me question if it was defective.

Use it.

Wright.88 wrote: ↑

Sun Dec 23, 2018 3:47 pm

I received a Hatchethawk the other day. Everything looks great, except 5 marks on one side of the blade. They’re pinhead-sized and are small holes. Not sure if they're pitting marks or manufacturing defects?