Spyderco Forums

I am getting a para2 in s110v from a co-worker in a few days. I am pumped....but there is a good size chip in the blade.

Is it going to be impossible to remove it with the 204 diamond stones? Or should I look for a professional to take it out?

And info is appreciated.

I believe in you

Deadboxhero wrote: ↑

Sat Mar 31, 2018 10:50 pm

I believe in you

+1

and get some cbn stones.

Put the 204 rods in the 20° slots

Focus on ones side, up and down, back and forth with moderate pressure ( not too much pressure it strips the diamond abrasive off the bonding film FASTER when they are done you throw them away and buy new ones)

Keep going until damage is gone.

Repeat on opposite side.

Move to the 15° slots.

Repeat

When done remove/reduce burr with very light alternating passes on the 204


Move to the white/ fine ceramic,

Light passes, alternating.

Check edge, cut paper

Snags? Rough cuts? Tears?

Repeat passes on white ceramic, remove burr, use even lighter pressure.

Not cutting, check edge in bright light to confirm apex was formed with burr. Flat spots? Chips? Repeat step one

No reflections? No chips? No burr? Still not sharp?

Overpolished apex. "Crushed edge" rounded at the very, very, very tip.

Cause?

Angle inconsistency

Too much pressure

Repeat steps in reverse order until results are found then progress back to the final step.


If your edge passes all this.

Can cut paper, shave a bit.

Then move to the strop, a loaded strop is MUCH more effective.

Stropping only enhances, it cannot create.

Good luck.

Shawn

easiest and best way for you to have this problem corrected (when you decide it's time) is to send your knife back to Spyderco and they will fix you up. Spyderco will sharpen your knife for free just send them $5.00 for the return postage. You can't ask for more than that!

I think you may like to consider just how much good edge steel you’re prepared to sacrifice to remove a chip in one sharpening.

Personally I’m inclined not to overly worry about chips and just use the knife as per normal, sharpen as required and eventually the chip is sharpened out. :)

Bloke wrote: ↑

Sun Apr 01, 2018 2:07 am

I think you may like to consider just how much good edge steel you’re prepared to sacrifice to remove a chip in one sharpening.

Personally I’m inclined not to overly worry about chips and just use the knife as per normal, sharpen as required and eventually the chip is sharpened out. :)

+1
do not waste a good steel, unless it is really bothering you.

bh49 wrote: ↑

Sun Apr 01, 2018 6:01 pm

Bloke wrote: ↑

Sun Apr 01, 2018 2:07 am

I think you may like to consider just how much good edge steel you’re prepared to sacrifice to remove a chip in one sharpening.

Personally I’m inclined not to overly worry about chips and just use the knife as per normal, sharpen as required and eventually the chip is sharpened out. :)

+1
do not waste a good steel, unless it is really bothering you.

Agree with the above!
Evaluate the damage first... Not only will you be wasting good steel, you'll also be thickening the shoulders a bit!

Pics when it arrives, for more focused advice...

I didn't wanna waste any sweet blade steel. But it's where the chip is... About 3/4 up the blade.

I will post pics as soon as I get it

wmcilvain wrote: ↑

Sun Apr 01, 2018 8:00 pm

I didn't wanna waste any sweet blade steel. But it's where the chip is... About 3/4 up the blade.

I will post pics as soon as I get it

Perhaps something else to consider is are you buying some else’s problem?

S110V doesn’t particularly like being ground so irrespective of what abrasives you use it won’t be much fun.

Hypothetically, if the chip is say 0.040” deep and you do grind it out that could mean removing more steel than you would (obviously depending on application) have in a lifetime on a S110V blade.

So that new knife with the chip in actuality may as well be twenty years old.

Just my 2c worth. :)

Post a photo when it comes. Bloke makes a good point. I had a chip in my PM2 and just used it until routine maintenance eliminated the chip.

Spyderco and $5 will make you happy.

So it's not as bad as I thought...

And I traded a knife I don't carry so I wasn't too worried about it.

I would take the previously given advice to simply use this knife "as is" and forget about the chip. The edge of the chip will sharpen and cut and as you sharpen the knife and over time the chip will just fade away.

That's what I am leaning towards. Plus I'm not a big "just the tip" cutter. So it will workout just fine.


I also wanna let this steel shine, so does anyone have an edge suggestion? I don't look for polished edges but I want a good toothy edge that lasts a long time

I can get a really nice sharp toothy edge on my Manix 2 LW S110v using a 600 grit CBN stone which is much harder than the steel almost as hard as diamond. CBN will cut every carbide that you will ever find in any blade even Maxamet and Rex 121. You only need a light touch to bring the edge up very high.

mjdragonfly wrote: ↑

Mon Apr 02, 2018 10:54 pm

I can get a really nice sharp toothy edge on my Manix 2 LW S110v using a 600 grit CBN stone which is much harder than the steel almost as hard as diamond. CBN will cut every carbide that you will ever find in any blade even Maxamet and Rex 121. You only need a light touch to bring the edge up very high.

So I take it you're a recommendation is that people get the CBN rods instead of the diamond ones?

From my limited experience with an assortment of five different grits of DMT stones which like most are poly particles of assorted sizes they actually cut lower than what the given grit is and they are more aggressive. You can buy mono grit diamond stones but they are a lot more expensive so I have not looked into them. I do have a coarse diamond DMT which I use for re profiling blades as it is fast. I have a 250 CBN and a 600 CBN and I plan to get a 1200 or 1500 CBN and I should be good to go.
I know that folks sharpen high carbide blades with softer stones but it just does not make good sense to me, seems if you want to actually profile the alloy along with its carbides you will need a stone harder than the hardest carbide in the alloy so CBN or Diamond. For high carbon steel like 1095 or similar you don't need CBN or Diamond.

kitanis wrote: ↑

Mon Apr 02, 2018 11:46 pm

mjdragonfly wrote: ↑

Mon Apr 02, 2018 10:54 pm

I can get a really nice sharp toothy edge on my Manix 2 LW S110v using a 600 grit CBN stone which is much harder than the steel almost as hard as diamond. CBN will cut every carbide that you will ever find in any blade even Maxamet and Rex 121. You only need a light touch to bring the edge up very high.

So I take it you're a recommendation is that people get the CBN rods instead of the diamond ones?

The current CBN from Spyderco were made to be a similar grit rating as the diamonds, as a trial to determine viability. The scratch pattern/effectiveness should be almost indistinguishable from the diamonds. CBN might be slightly more durable in this application, but powered grinding is where it really shows great advantage, primarily in lack of carbon transfer to the work piece at high temp.

mjdragonfly wrote: ↑

Tue Apr 03, 2018 12:31 am

From my limited experience with an assortment of five different grits of DMT stones which like most are poly particles of assorted sizes they actually cut lower than what the given grit is and they are more aggressive. You can buy mono grit diamond stones but they are a lot more expensive so I have not looked into them. I do have a coarse diamond DMT which I use for re profiling blades as it is fast. I have a 250 CBN and a 600 CBN and I plan to get a 1200 or 1500 CBN and I should be good to go.
I know that folks sharpen high carbide blades with softer stones but it just does not make good sense to me, seems if you want to actually profile the alloy along with its carbides you will need a stone harder than the hardest carbide in the alloy so CBN or Diamond. For high carbon steel like 1095 or similar you don't need CBN or Diamond.

DMT brand are clearly marketed as MONO-crystalline particles.