Spyderco Chaparral titanium help (put the knife back together)

[Xformer]

Hi,

I'm a Spyderco Chapparal titanium owner and I like the knife. I was trying to do some maintenance on it since it was really dirty (I use it a lot) and the disassembly worked well. The re-assembly however was - and still is - awful. It's kind of surprising because it doesn't seem like the knife is difficult to take apart, it's rather simple mechanic, but I can't put it back properly, for the life of me.

To be precise, I have a problem with one of the pin on the scale. There's a pin and hole in the scales and in order to put the knife back, you have to kind of "pinch" the scales together to make the "pin" (scale 1) enter in the "hole" (scale 2). The problem is, the pin and the hole seem to have some difficulty entering in eachothers. I can do it, but there's still some space and the knife has some unwanted space in between the scales and the blade... There's some blade-play too that wasn't there before the disassembly. Is there some trick to do it ?

I must precise I'm a total newb when it comes to knife. I did watch a lot of youtube tutorial and read some advice on this board on disassembly, but that's all.

Sorry for my english, it's not my first language and I'm still learning =X

Thanks in advance for your answer.

[SpyderNut]

Welcome to the Forum, Chapp. Nice to have you here.

From the sound of it, I’m guessing you’re having difficulty with the stop pin? This is the pin that the blade sets against when the Blade is fully opened. (If I recall correctly, the Chaparral has an internal stop pin that rides in a cut-out within the Blade. Assuming this is the case, I’m guessing this pin might be beveled on one side to make it easier to enter the scale. If this is true, I would press-fit the non-beveled side into the bottom scale and leave the beveled side for the top scale because it will be a lot easier to assemble. Does this make sense? Again, I’m going on the assumption that this involves a stop pin. If I’m wrong, please let me know. Also, can you show some pictures of this?

-Michael

[Xformer]

Thank for your answer, but no, the titanium Chaparral doesn't have a stop pin. When the blade is fully opened, it just lay against the back-lock.

I can't take a picture of my chappie right now, but here's an image. It's not the chappie, but it's similar in construction (without the stop pin though). The pin I'm speaking about is circled in red in the image of this knife :



The pin is really though to fully "clipse" in the hole of the opposite scale.

[RamZar]

Check out this video although it's for the FRN Chaparral.

https://youtu.be/ZwFChOFM-2Y

[Xformer]

Yeah, that's the video that gave me confidence to take the Chappie titanium apart, but unfortuantely, it's a very different construction, the pins are not the same.

[Daveho]

Lock backs can be tricky to get aligned, firstly if your having issues you should cover the blade edge with some tape to protect yourself, unfortunately we are of little help over the net but I can say they you will need to apply some tension to the bar during reassembly if I recall correctly it should be very similar to a delica.

[MichaelScott]

Protect (cover) the blade edge with tape. Put the knife together completely except for the lock bar, the lock bar pin and screw. With the blade in its fully open position fit the square end of the lock bar into the knife and the blade notch. Put pressure on the lock bar while keeping the blade open and the end of the lock bar in the notch until you can get the pin through the handle scale and through its hole in the lock bar. You should be able to insert the screw from the opposite side to finish tightening it into the lock bar pin.

[Bloke]

Welcome to the forum! :)

I don’t have a Chaparral but try this: Be certain the tension bar (Sprig) is orientated correctly. Assembly the knife in the open position with all the screws finger tight. Don’t tighten anything. Put the lock bar in place and use a cable tie around the scales (handle) to pull the lock bar down at the indent (were you would push to unlock the knife). Not too tight. You can tighten it if need be later. Pinch the lock bar at the tang end with you finger and thumb (if you’re strong like an Australian) and have a look in the lock bar pivot hole to see if everything is lined up. You may need to tighten the cable tie a little. If things are misaligned use a Philips Head screwdriver or similar as close to the pin diameter as you have and gently align everything. Drop the pivot pin in and screw in the screw/screws. Cut the cable tie and starting with the pivot screw torque it down snug. Torque the rest of the screws firm but don’t over tighten, adjust your pivot and your done!

I’d also like to offer a little more advise. DO NOT believe everything you see on YouTube.

Let us know how it all goes.

[The Deacon]

Don't have any advice to offer, but I know that things which work for the majority of Spyderco midlocks, where the lockbar pivot screw and backspacer screw are visible when the knife is fully assembled will not work for the CF, Ti, or RN versions of the Chaparral where they're buried between the liners and the scales.



The photos below are not mine, and I can't recall who posted them, but a google image search might give the OP a chance to contact someone who's "been there, done that".

EDITED TO ADD: Here's a link to the thread they were originally posted in. User who posted them hasn't been active for 7 years, but might still respond to an email. //forum.spyderco.com/viewto ... 7&start=40

[Larry_Mott]

Just out of curiosity - did you find any dirt that you wouldn't have been able to get removed without disassembly?
(Yes i am a firm believer in *not* disassembling knives in spite of the current craze..)

[Bloke]

Don't have any advice to offer, but I know that things which work for the majority of Spyderco midlocks, where the lockbar pivot screw and backspacer screw are visible when the knife is fully assembled will not work for the CF, Ti, or RN versions of the Chaparral where they're buried between the liners and the scales.

I see what you’re saying Paul. :)

The Ti version is a different animal.

[Daveho]

Just out of curiosity - did you find any dirt that you wouldn't have been able to get removed without disassembly?
(Yes i am a firm believer in *not* disassembling knives in spite of the current craze..)

Super helpful.
Great work mate, 10/10.

[ross8425]

Just out of curiosity - did you find any dirt that you wouldn't have been able to get removed without disassembly?
(Yes i am a firm believer in *not* disassembling knives in spite of the current craze..)

[Larry_Mott]

Just out of curiosity - did you find any dirt that you wouldn't have been able to get removed without disassembly?
(Yes i am a firm believer in *not* disassembling knives in spite of the current craze..)

Super helpful.
Great work mate, 10/10.

I wasn't trying to help since I don't know how to do it. My question was if there was any dirt hidden where you couldn't have gotten it out without disassembling. Since I don't disassemble my own knives I would like to know. That's all.

[bearfacedkiller]

I have taken a Chap apart quite a few times. It is a uniquely constructed knife but no harder than any other back lock.

It does have a stop pin. It is the pin that goes through the blade tang which then rides in the semicircle channels in the liners. It is called an internal stop pin and is in my opinion a superior design. I would like to see more back locks with it. It functions as a stop pin when open as well as functioning like a kick when closed. Anyway, that isn't really what you asked.

The pin you say is causing your issue is the lockbar pivot. The screws for the lockbar pivot are hidden under the scales for this model. I am surprised that you cannot use that screw to pull the scales together? A couple tips that may help. I believe that pin is D shaped so make sure it is aligned with the D shaped hole in the scale. Also, do not over tighten the screw on this pin as it is a pivot for the lockbar. I assume the blade play is being caused by the scales not being pulled together all the way.

[Xformer]

I have taken a Chap apart quite a few times. It is a uniquely constructed knife but no harder than any other back lock.

It does have a stop pin. It is the pin that goes through the blade tang which then rides in the semicircle channels in the liners. It is called an internal stop pin and is in my opinion a superior design. I would like to see more back locks with it. It functions as a stop pin when open as well as functioning like a kick when closed. Anyway, that isn't really what you asked.

The pin you say is causing your issue is the lockbar pivot. The screws for the lockbar pivot are hidden under the scales for this model. I am surprised that you cannot use that screw to pull the scales together? A couple tips that may help. I believe that pin is D shaped so make sure it is aligned with the D shaped hole in the scale. Also, do not over tighten the screw on this pin as it is a pivot for the lockbar. I assume the blade play is being caused by the scales not being pulled together all the way.

Sorry, I'm coming back to you very late. Have you ever take a Titanium Chaparral apart ? Or just common Chap ? I have already noticed about the D-shape pin, but it's only the case on two pins, the pins that you have to insert the screw in. It's not the case for the smaller pin across the scale.

I've taken some pictures. I've circled the pin I have a problem with and I suspect is preventing me to put the scale back correctly :



Next, you have the hole that I should "clipse" the pin in :



Then, the "gap" that I have after putting everything back and tighten the screws :



Sorry for the picture quality, I'm still rocking a 2012 cheap smartphone ^^'. Oh and I forgot to precise, I only have blade play when the knife is closed. It doesn't have it when fully open.

[The Deacon]

Have you inspected the blind hole that pin fits into and made absolutely sure there isn't a speck of foreign matter in there?

Another possibility is that the washer, or a bit of foreign matter on the washer, could be the issue.

Doe the blade move normally between the open and closed positions or is it harder to move than before disassembly? Same question for the lockbar.

[JaseRicco]

This is the video I watched before taking my first Delica 4 apart...
https://youtu.be/ePi5ELQmg3E
Yes the Delica 4 and Chapparal are completely different, the back locks and their assembly, however, are very similar.

And although back locks can be a Royal PIA and they make me curse out loud every time I reassemble, I have listened to the tips, tricks and advice of this video with great success. Watch it all the way through.

[Daveho]

Where are you located bud?
Worst case send it to Golden and they will put it back together for you but contact them for conditions.
If your near me here in Australia you are welcome to send it to me and I’ll put it back together for you.

[FX sniper]

Thank for your answer, but no, the titanium Chaparral doesn't have a stop pin. When the blade is fully opened, it just lay against the back-lock.

I can't take a picture of my chappie right now, but here's an image. It's not the chappie, but it's similar in construction (without the stop pin though). The pin I'm speaking about is circled in red in the image of this knife :



The pin is really though to fully "clipse" in the hole of the opposite scale.

I bet you that is a knife that is american and made for a man of the law, it has steel that is cold. :rolleyes: