Spyderco Forums

A tall CNC hollow grind would be a sweet thing, I'll second that EvilD

Evil D wrote: ↑

Sat Mar 10, 2018 4:41 pm

I'd like to see Spyderco make a tall leaf shaped blade (taller than most) with a very high hollow grind, high enough that it's almost a full hollow but on a tall enough blade that it can be thin enough to slice well without being a door stop. Then they could make the blade 5mm thick and beefy enough to beat to death.

This is interesting, David! You continue to expand my knife-knowledge horizons. Are you saying that it is possible to make a hollow ground blade that is still thick, in that 5 mm range of thickness? I would love to see someone make an image of this blade because it sounds excellent.

I also think the Caspian Salt is an almost "Ideal Spyderco Prybar Knife" or at least one of them.

I've been wanting a high hollow for a while from Spyderco. Like David said, not full hollow, but really high. I see no need for much more than 4-5mm of flat near the spine.

SpyderEdgeForever wrote: ↑

Sat Mar 10, 2018 5:43 pm

Evil D wrote: ↑

Sat Mar 10, 2018 4:41 pm

I'd like to see Spyderco make a tall leaf shaped blade (taller than most) with a very high hollow grind, high enough that it's almost a full hollow but on a tall enough blade that it can be thin enough to slice well without being a door stop. Then they could make the blade 5mm thick and beefy enough to beat to death.

This is interesting, David! You continue to expand my knife-knowledge horizons. Are you saying that it is possible to make a hollow ground blade that is still thick, in that 5 mm range of thickness? I would love to see someone make an image of this blade because it sounds excellent.

I also think the Caspian Salt is an almost "Ideal Spyderco Prybar Knife" or at least one of them.

The problem with thick blades is they slice like crap. The way most companies try to get around that is with a hollow grind, but most of them are done on narrow height blades so the transition from edge to spine is very abrupt and so they wedge when slicing rigid materials. If a blade is tall enough in height it gives the grind enough room to transition up to the spine so it isn't as prone to wedging. This way you can have a thick spine and still be thin enough behind the edge to slice decently. CRK do this with their knives already but I think Spyderco can do it better with a broad leaf shaped blade because the grind will have even more distance to transition.

Basically the same as this but these are flat grinds, the same applies to hollow though. Blade height makes all the difference in the world when it comes to slicing ability. You can have the same spine thickness or even thicker and the taller blade will slice better every time because the geometry is thinner. These are the same thickness at the spine.

I wanted a legit, sharpened chisel pry-bar for heavy duty yard tasks. I came up with design and a friend knife maker of mine made it. CKE (Craig Wheatley) nailed it. It’s my Reiði model. I figured 1/4” stock was beefy enough
RLR

Yeesh. I shudder at the thought of using any folding knife as a pry bar no matter how thick the blade or suggestive the name (looking at you, Tuff).

I have a sharpened pry bar. It's called a Ranger Falcon by Ontario. It's 1/4" thick 5160 with something of an edge. It's awesome at everything except what I want a pocket knife to do. Great companion to any Spyderco!

The suggestion of Spyderco making such a knife should take into account the price of these fine steels. The Ontario was $60. I can't imagine paying the price of a similar mass of a Spyderco-caliber steel to do such brute force work that will destroy the edge of any steel. Maybe they could out-design it, but in choice of materials and value it's going to be tough to beat.

I tried to edit and remove the duplicate images but I can’t get it to work. So, enjoy or disregard the duplicates in my last post.

"Could you hand me a crescent wrench please?"

"Sure, large or small?"

"The large one. I'm going to use it as a hammer anyway."

Tool rule no. two: Use the right tool.
My knife is for cutting. Try a mini prybar for light prying commensurate with the level of a knife used to pry.
The new clipitools have short flat screwgie blades suitable for light prying. (Badern: "Got a screwgie?" lol)

I have old Caspian Salt 2s which are capable of prying, and also both the large and small Dive Probes from way back before the California restrictions. Those abalone irons make *giant* prybars and the knives are anything but pocket friendly for normal human carry.

just get a mini prybar... some will fit in a wallet with no fuss.

2", 3", 4" below:

Wouldnt consider stuff like the super leaf and shaman prybars. They are just wide blade that are FFG but reasonably thin behind the edge.

Lionspy, Bradley Bowie, K2 and Para2 You can see how robust the blade is on the Lionspy. It has the sturdiest blade of any Spydie I have handled. Unfortunately I do not carry it much as it isn't the best slicer.

When it comes to actually needing to pry something I usually use my Caplifter Clipitool. I carry this little guy all the time and it comes in so handy. I have used it to pry all sorts of things.

Saber ground Enduras cut pretty poorly and are idiot proof

Is PRY really meant to be taken literally? Or just a sturdy blade that will stand up to hard-pressure cutting?
I mean, in an emergency we will use whatever we have and not worry (I hope) about the survival of the tool. In daily or even occasional spontaneous use, I think either a blade can take a little light "out-of-intended design" use, or we go get a more suitable tool. Spyderco makes a fair number of sturdy folders that can do the latter, and in a true emergency I will use even a Chaparral until it breaks, but for most any chores that require actual prying, I'm gonna use a screwdriver , err a prybar.

blendergasket wrote: ↑

Sat Mar 10, 2018 4:06 pm

I'm about to head to the beach to camp for a few days and plan on doing lots of wood prep. I, for one, would love it if Spyderco had some sort of at least semi-stainless "sharpened pry bar" type knife I could bring with me that functioned well enough at everything from food prep to batoning.

I think what you want is this

I used to cary thicker knives I could pry with, then I switched to carrying thinner knives, and a mini prybar/bottle opener/screwdriver (gerber shard) on my keychain. Thinner knives just cut better, and now I don't break tips prying or scratch the blade opening beers.

ZrowsN1s wrote: ↑

Sun Mar 11, 2018 12:15 pm

I used to cary thicker knives I could pry with, then I switched to carrying thinner knives, and a mini prybar/bottle opener/screwdriver (gerber shard) on my keychain. Thinner knives just cut better, and now I don't break tips prying or scratch the blade opening beers.

Same. My Victorinox Spirit has a pry tool I use pretty often. People like to use the "only tool" argument which is fine but I don't pay $200 for a knife that won't slice just so I can use it as the wrong tool. It's easy enough to carry a multitool.

ThePeacent wrote: ↑

Sun Mar 11, 2018 11:00 am

blendergasket wrote: ↑

Sat Mar 10, 2018 4:06 pm

I'm about to head to the beach to camp for a few days and plan on doing lots of wood prep. I, for one, would love it if Spyderco had some sort of at least semi-stainless "sharpened pry bar" type knife I could bring with me that functioned well enough at everything from food prep to batoning.

I think what you want is this

Wow. Yep. That'd do the trick... I'm gonna have to save up to get one of them off eBay.

Evil D wrote: ↑

Sun Mar 11, 2018 1:08 pm

ZrowsN1s wrote: ↑

Sun Mar 11, 2018 12:15 pm

I used to cary thicker knives I could pry with, then I switched to carrying thinner knives, and a mini prybar/bottle opener/screwdriver (gerber shard) on my keychain. Thinner knives just cut better, and now I don't break tips prying or scratch the blade opening beers.

Same. My Victorinox Spirit has a pry tool I use pretty often. People like to use the "only tool" argument which is fine but I don't pay $200 for a knife that won't slice just so I can use it as the wrong tool. It's easy enough to carry a multitool.

the good ole prying tool :D

I wouldn't recommend a rock salt for prying. It'll definitely bend. The hollow grind makes it very prone to warping the edge. I know from experience. It's a good chopper though just don't twist it in the cut. It splits coconuts and cuts chicken with no problem. I'm a firm believer of using a knife for cutting task. If i feel like I'll have to pry something I'll bring a proper tool. I usually have a SAK around anyway with a flat screw driver /mini pry bar. Bring back the Forrester in 3V. That should be able pry a lot. Jerry Hossom was a big fan of 3V.