Sharpening S110V

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Canazes9
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Re: Sharpening S110V

#101

Post by Canazes9 »

Deadboxhero wrote:
Sun Mar 04, 2018 11:19 pm
Canazes9 wrote:
Sun Mar 04, 2018 11:00 pm
Deadboxhero wrote:
Sun Mar 04, 2018 10:46 pm
Canazes9 wrote:
Sun Mar 04, 2018 10:20 pm



Hmmmm

Looks like a new set of tests w/o waiting for the results of the last requested test. The new tests will a long time to accomplis with the "game cleaning" requirements. You can "put it back on me" all you want - the tests will be on video, the toothy edges will be sharp.

I like how you carefully stack the test requirements to produce the results that you want to see. Why didn't you have any comments when I first asked Bloke about it? Before I conducted that test and recorded with video?

#1) How about we cut 10 pieces of manilla rope then repeat the loop rope test cut as a measure of efficacy?


#2) So downward (push cut) efficacy is the only fair way to measure loss of efficacy in cutting performance? Even though we are applying force in two dimensions, we'll just measure one? interesting.


#3) Already done multiple times, though admittedly, not with S110V. Have conducted extensive testing with my Dozier Yukon Skinner cleaning about a dozen deer and I'll take a highly polished edge all day, every day over a toothy edge.

How about you conduct that testing and post it on the forum, I'm eagerly waiting to give my commentary on your results.

David



Canazes9 wrote:
Sat Mar 03, 2018 9:18 pm
Bloke wrote:
Sat Mar 03, 2018 9:14 pm


I've found difficulty in cutting any of the synthetics and natural fibre ropes with a refined edge.

A prime example would be after I took HAP40 to hair whittling off UF stones on the SM not long after I joined the forum and contacted the member here who explained how to do it to brag about my sharpening ability. Ah, hahaha!

He challenged me to bend some rope into a loop put the knife in the loop and try to cut out. So I did and it certainly didn't cut anything like a coarse edge does. In fact it slid a lot like a blunt blade would.
Polypropylene? Nylon? Size?

Can't say that I've tried cutting a loop as described, usually cutting to length on some wood backing. Going to try some rope tomorrow, appreciate the input.

David


Again, doing what was requested of me, not cutting some rotten natural fiber rope.

David
Why are you dogpiling me? Bloke is the one that requested this test, not me.

David
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Ankerson
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Re: Sharpening S110V

#102

Post by Ankerson »

It's all been tested before, by me and others that do the same sort of testing I do along with CATRA.
Canazes9
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Re: Sharpening S110V

#103

Post by Canazes9 »

Ankerson wrote:
Sun Mar 04, 2018 11:19 pm

Have a nice day.
Thank you, I will and I heartily encourage you to do the same. I'm sure if you try you can exert your will and keep this a safe space free from opinions that disagree with yours.


David
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npad69
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Re: Sharpening S110V

#104

Post by npad69 »

i've been reading a lot of steel tests and i have read a lot of people referencing Ankerson's test data and that has been going on for a few years now. i have seen a lot of tests but not as comprehensive as ankerson's.

i was following this thread and it was going well from the start but went downhill when people provided test results that contradicted someone's theory and took it personally. i don't think people are here to shame or ridicule anyone, we are all here to gain and share knowledge without throwing egos and tantrums around. i hope people quit acting like how children cover their ears and sing la..la..la.. then throw a tantrum while shouting 'all you guys suck!' and run home crying whenever they lose an argument of which superhero is the greatest.

the game here is to prove and disprove using tests and scientific which i really appreciate. i don't really care who is right, as a matter of fact i gain more knowledge whenever someone is wrong or a myth has been busted.

to all you guys who were very objective in sharing your knowledge and posting videos as proof. thank you, i really appreciate it.
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Re: Sharpening S110V

#105

Post by Bloke »

Canazes9 wrote:
Sun Mar 04, 2018 10:54 pm
When I stated that, Bloke suggested a test, a test that would result in the polished edge sliding off the rope like a dull knife. It didn't happen. I did the test, I posted the video.

David
David! I’ll reread my post but I think I said I was offered a challenge and it didn’t go well for me. The knife did slide on the poly rope. I don’t think it matters much, particularly now but I tried to slice rather than push cut and of course I cut the rope but not as you did in one motion. The knife did not bite so I said it slipped like a blunt knife (from memory).

Anyhow, it’s not that important to me either way but I’m not too sure I challenged you or anyone and I’m not to sure I suggested anything either. Other than the polished edge didn’t cut rope as good as a coarse edge. As I said I’ll reread my post but I think you said you’d buy some rope and see for yourself.

I’m genuinely glad you posted the clip. It was not what I expected and I said as such. Fair to say I ate humble pie, but that’s not so bad because I don’t come here to start, wIn or loose arguments.

I really don’t know why this thread has degenerated like it has but insulting each other is just plain wrong.

Truth be know Anderson has more than likely forgotten more about knives than you and I know combined.
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Re: Sharpening S110V

#106

Post by Ankerson »

Bloke wrote:
Sun Mar 04, 2018 11:50 pm
Canazes9 wrote:
Sun Mar 04, 2018 10:54 pm
When I stated that, Bloke suggested a test, a test that would result in the polished edge sliding off the rope like a dull knife. It didn't happen. I did the test, I posted the video.

David
David! I’ll reread my post but I think I said I was offered a challenge and it didn’t go well for me. The knife did slide on the poly rope. I don’t think it matters much, particularly now but I tried to slice rather than push cut and of course I cut the rope but not as you did in one motion. The knife did not bite so I said it slipped like a blunt knife (from memory).

Anyhow, it’s not that important to me either way but I’m not too sure I challenged you or anyone and I’m not to sure I suggested anything either. Other than the polished edge didn’t cut rope as good as a coarse edge. As I said I’ll reread my post but I think you said you’d buy some rope and see for yourself.

I’m genuinely glad you posted the clip. It was not what I expected and I said as such. Fair to say I ate humble pie, but that’s not so bad because I don’t come here to start, wIn or loose arguments.

I really don’t know why this thread has degenerated like it has but insulting each other is just plain wrong.

Truth be know Anderson has more than likely forgotten more about knives than you and I know combined.

The problem in general with polished edges on rope is they will start sliding across the rope instead of cutting once they lose the bite and that happens a lot sooner with a polished edge than with a coarse edge. They will cut pretty well at 1st, but they dull pretty fast.

But if one had a job cutting large amounts of rope a serrated edge would be best.
Canazes9
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Re: Sharpening S110V

#107

Post by Canazes9 »

Bloke wrote:
Sun Mar 04, 2018 11:50 pm
Canazes9 wrote:
Sun Mar 04, 2018 10:54 pm
When I stated that, Bloke suggested a test, a test that would result in the polished edge sliding off the rope like a dull knife. It didn't happen. I did the test, I posted the video.

David
David! I’ll reread my post but I think I said I was offered a challenge and it didn’t go well for me. The knife did slide on the poly rope. I don’t think it matters much, particularly now but I tried to slice rather than push cut and of course I cut the rope but not as you did in one motion. The knife did not bite so I said it slipped like a blunt knife (from memory).

Anyhow, it’s not that important to me either way but I’m not too sure I challenged you or anyone and I’m not to sure I suggested anything either. Other than the polished edge didn’t cut rope as good as a coarse edge. As I said I’ll reread my post but I think you said you’d buy some rope and see for yourself.

I’m genuinely glad you posted the clip. It was not what I expected and I said as such. Fair to say I ate humble pie, but that’s not so bad because I don’t come here to start, wIn or loose arguments.

I really don’t know why this thread has degenerated like it has but insulting each other is just plain wrong.

Truth be know Anderson has more than likely forgotten more about knives than you and I know combined.
Bloke,

I see no reason, in any context, for you to "eat humble pie". There was an opinion, facts stated by your testing, I was encouraged to do my own. My results were different than yours. I stated it that way and even asked for input from others.

For some reason everyone and their brother now feels compelled to tell me what I should have done - while they do nothing (After they did nothing and said nothing when this test was suggested). Ankerson feels compelled to jump in this thread as if I've personally insulted his mother, but provides no data, just snide comments. And I'm accused of trolling.

It's more than a bit tiresome.

David
Canazes9
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Re: Sharpening S110V

#108

Post by Canazes9 »

clovehitch wrote:
Mon Mar 05, 2018 12:02 am
Ankerson wrote:
Sun Mar 04, 2018 11:55 pm
The problem in general with polished edges on rope is they will start sliding across the rope instead of cutting once they lose the bite and that happens a lot sooner with a polished edge than with a coarse edge.
That's all anyone needs to take home from all this.
My data says differently, both of you feel free to post your own.

David
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Re: Sharpening S110V

#109

Post by Bloke »

Canazes9 wrote:
Mon Mar 05, 2018 12:03 am
Bloke,

I see no reason, in any context, for you to "eat humble pie". There was an opinion, facts stated by your testing, I was encouraged to do my own. My results were different than yours. I stated it that way and even asked for input from others.

For some reason everyone and their brother now feels compelled to tell me what I should have done - while they do nothing (After they did nothing and said nothing when this test was suggested). Ankerson feels compelled to jump in this thread as if I've personally insulted his mother, but provides no data, just snide comments. And I'm accused of trolling.

It's more than a bit tiresome.

David
Fair enough! But somehow I feel that my observation right or wrong started this.

Anyhow, I personally believe we need an open mind in order not only to learn but to survive on this earth and we don’t have to agree with each other to do that.

I simply believe it’s easier to not reply to anything we find disagreeable than it is to have a confrontation. At the end of the day nobody cares what anybody does with there own knives as long as we don’t stab each other of course.
A day without laughter is a day wasted. ~ Charlie Chaplin
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Re: Sharpening S110V

#110

Post by Canazes9 »

clovehitch wrote:
Mon Mar 05, 2018 12:10 am
Canazed9. It's all good man. I think insanely sharp, highly polished edges often get too bad of a rap from the toothy edge mafia (humor), and I say this with decades of cutting rope under my belt, with a solidified opinion that a toothy edge not only outperforms but outlasts a polished edge. Ankerson's tests are rather extensive and show similar results. Imo, in your video, you had to exert a good amount of force to cut the loop. Just saying. But I think you did illustrate that polished edges are far from useless like some (no one here) have implied in the past.
I can only compare what I've done first hand, yet you and Ankerson now know how that I had to "exert a good amount of force" from the video.

The original context was polished edges would slide off the loop like a dull knife. That didn't sound right to me, I politely requested info from Bloke, and then tested it. Now I'm treated like I'm trying to scam the free world.

I really am not aware of any testing done by Ankerson. If he wants to share information, I would love to see it.

David
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Deadboxhero
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Re: Sharpening S110V

#111

Post by Deadboxhero »

Canazes9 wrote:
Mon Mar 05, 2018 12:23 am
clovehitch wrote:
Mon Mar 05, 2018 12:10 am
Canazed9. It's all good man. I think insanely sharp, highly polished edges often get too bad of a rap from the toothy edge mafia (humor), and I say this with decades of cutting rope under my belt, with a solidified opinion that a toothy edge not only outperforms but outlasts a polished edge. Ankerson's tests are rather extensive and show similar results. Imo, in your video, you had to exert a good amount of force to cut the loop. Just saying. But I think you did illustrate that polished edges are far from useless like some (no one here) have implied in the past.
I can only compare what I've done first hand, yet you and Ankerson now know how that I had to "exert a good amount of force" from the video.

The original context was polished edges would slide off the loop like a dull knife. That didn't sound right to me, I politely requested info from Bloke, and then tested it. Now I'm treated like I'm trying to scam the free world.

I really am not aware of any testing done by Ankerson. If he wants to share information, I would love to see it.

David
No one thinks your trying to scam the free world, someone asked you to perform a test and you put your money where your mouth is which is more then alot of people do which is great.
It's not my intention to make you upset. I saw from your response to "my wall of text" that your someone that likes to SEE more then read or hear. I like that, and I like that you were willing to share videos. We need more of that.
I was just showing that test you requested of cutting the rope 10 times and then cutting a loop was only going to show which of us is stronger not what finish is better for rope. To test we would have to measure the force to cut because if the force is strong enough even a dull knife can cut.

You can find Ankersons testing in a short Google search. It's the most comprehensive cut testing database I can think of.
It's thankless as well, but those that know very much appreciate the all the testing he has done over the last few decades for free.
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Sharp Guy
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Re: Sharpening S110V

#112

Post by Sharp Guy »

Canazes9 wrote:
Mon Mar 05, 2018 12:03 am
.....Ankerson feels compelled to jump in this thread as if I've personally insulted his mother, but provides no data, just snide comments.
Not sure it'll make any diffrrence to you but just to give you an idea of Ankerson's experience....

https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/ran ... pe.793481/

There's much more. While you're there do a search for threads & posts by Ankerson.

Deadboxhero's quite experienced too. Check out "Big Brown Bear" on YouTube.
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vivi
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Re: Sharpening S110V

#113

Post by vivi »

clovehitch wrote:
Mon Mar 05, 2018 12:10 am
Canazed9. It's all good man. I think insanely sharp, highly polished edges often get too bad of a rap from the toothy edge mafia (humor), and I say this with decades of cutting rope under my belt, with a solidified opinion that a toothy edge not only outperforms but outlasts a polished edge. Ankerson's tests are rather extensive and show similar results. Imo, in your video, you had to exert a good amount of force to cut the loop. Just saying. But I think you did illustrate that polished edges are far from useless like some (no one here) have implied in the past.

I agree with this.

Like I said earlier in the thread, I run everything from edges right off a DMT XX Coarse to spydercos UF benchstones. I have a lot of experience taking a lot of different carbon and stainless steels to different levels of finish.

My own use shows toothy edges last longer as far as working edges are concerned.

BUT, that being said, I've used polished 8,000-12,000 grit edges on my EDC's in the past. Even on steels with low edge retention like H1 PE and Buck 110's in 420HC. I never encountered a situation where my knife didn't make it through a day. Polished edges, even on such steels, can slice up a garage full of cardboars for recycling and still be useful, despite popular belief. I've done it countless times with my Aqua Salt, PE Pacific Salt, etc.

If you want a knife that shaves effortlessly, and holds shaving sharpness and beyond the best, polished edges work better IME.

I like a toothier edge on my EDC and camp knives. I like polished edges on kitchen knives. Just like the saying right tool for the job, so it goes with the edge. Match the edge to the application.

My EDC uses are a mix of slices and push cuts, and a shaving sharp toothy edge does best.

My kitchen knives push cut veggies more than anything, so a thin, polished edge works nicely.

Axes get polished, despite many who feel shaving sharpness on an axe is a waste (I'm not one of them).

Machetes used on loose grass get a coarse edge, better to grab the material during the swing IMO.

I think that before you judge either edge type you need to be sure you've done a good job applying it. Low grit edges should have no issues shaving without touching the skin when freshly applied. Highly polished edges should have zero problems slicing through poly rope and ripe tomatoes.
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Re: Sharpening S110V

#114

Post by Surfingringo »

This one went a bit sideways didn’t it? Ok, I’m not going to wade very deep back into this but I do want to clarify something that is being discussed and misunderstood in this thread. The folded rope test suggested to Bloke was suggested by me last year. The idea of that particular test had nothing to do with saying that a polished edge would not be able to cut through it, it was just suggested as a convenient way to feel how the two types of edges compare. It is simple enough to push through a doubled over rope with either edge. It is also simple enough to angle the knife slightly and try to slice through it with light pressure. If one does the latter it will become instantly apparent that a course edge will “grip” and slice through the rope with a fraction of the pressure required by the polished edge.

Canazes, I once held the opinion that you do now. If you keep investigating your ideas will evolve. It’s certainly no business of mine though whether you choose to do that or not. I was just offering a friendly suggestion based on my own experience.
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Re: Sharpening S110V

#115

Post by ZrowsN1s »

The discussion got a little heated, but I think cooler heads prevailed on both sides. I must admit I love debating this stuff (so much better than talking politics). Do you know how hard it is to find people (outside of this forum) to discuss edge types with? Most people only know two edge types, sharp and dull. Lulz and most people I know can't put a coarse sharp edge OR a highly refined edge on a knife to save their lives, let alone have a conversation about the pros and cons of each type. Those of us interested enough in knives to talk edge types and refinement have much more in common than not I think.
Last edited by ZrowsN1s on Mon Mar 05, 2018 9:45 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Sharpening S110V

#116

Post by ThePeacent »

I have no dog in this fight but I've watched it closely since the first post. :cool:

You've all got some very good info and tests here, and I'll just add two things:

- In my uses and steels (420HC, AUS8, H1, CTS-XHP, 8Cr13MoV, Sandvik steels mostly) the results match what I've read throughout the years in all of the net and other sources: a toothy edge outlasts and outperforms a highly polished one, even though variables like the particular steel, grind, edge angle etc. have lots of importance in that :spyder:

- ZipTies and rope or cord are easy enough to cut with a thin object, if sufficient force is applied. Within human strength limits, most ordinary ropes can be cut pushing with a slab/sheet of metal, hard plastic or solid material that is thin and not rounded. I've got an old friend from work who would cut ropes like the one in the video the same way with a piece of rebar! :D

just exaggerating, but to make a point about the videos: thinness matters in that type of cutting, the edge itself matters in the type of cutting suggested here (Drawing or moving the edge along the rope)

just my $0.02, and hopefully this will keep civil, too much good stuff to go down the drain due to heated mood! :)
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Re: Sharpening S110V

#117

Post by Ankerson »

Surfingringo wrote:
Mon Mar 05, 2018 6:05 am
This one went a bit sideways didn’t it? Ok, I’m not going to wade very deep back into this but I do want to clarify something that is being discussed and misunderstood in this thread. The folded rope test suggested to Bloke was suggested by me last year. The idea of that particular test had nothing to do with saying that a polished edge would not be able to cut through it, it was just suggested as a convenient way to feel how the two types of edges compare. It is simple enough to push through a doubled over rope with either edge. It is also simple enough to angle the knife slightly and try to slice through it with light pressure. If one does the latter it will become instantly apparent that a course edge will “grip” and slice through the rope with a fraction of the pressure required by the polished edge.

Canazes, I once held the opinion that you do now. If you keep investigating your ideas will evolve. It’s certainly no business of mine though whether you choose to do that or not. I was just offering a friendly suggestion based on my own experience.
Every once in awhile there is someone who thinks polished edges work the best for this sort of thing. With all of the push out there towards polished edges and the products to produce them it's no surprise.

This creates a lot of perception on the part of the users with all of the hype from those who sell the products and others who have sharpening businesses.

Nothing wrong with a polished edge in general if that's what someone likes, I mean they do look nice. :cool:

But as far as performance goes a coarse edge just works better.

When I was developing my testing method (Tweaking for better consistency) I was working with different edge finishes from 30,000 grit down to 320 grit. I moved away from the polished edge because they just didn't hold an edge as long as the coarser grits did, especially on the manila rope. I worked with 600 grit for awhile then dropped down to 400 grit as I found I got the maximum edge retention out of that.

Add in the sharpness tester I use, the high quality rope I order and sharpen everything on the Edge Pro and use the same stones all the time things can get consistent.
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Re: Sharpening S110V

#118

Post by vivi »

sharpness testing is legit and easy to do at home. Somewhere I can scrounge up the setup I made. Simple little block of wood with a nail hammered into each side and a V shaped notch on the top. Loop some sewing thread around both nails and push cut straight down on the thread with the block of wood resting on a postal scale.

The sharpest factory knives took about 70-80g of force to push cut the thread. Most factory knives took 120-150g of force. My hand sharpened knives, mostly VG10 and S30V finished with a DMT fine stone at the time, got into the 30's.

It's fun doing similar tests with factory bevels VS reprofiled knives. Buy two knives of the same model, say two Cara Cara 2's. Keep the factory angle on one, then reprofile the other much thinner. Now put some thicker objects on a bathroom scale and cut them with both knives and see howbmany pounds or force each cut requires. I found, all other things being equal, that dropping the bevel angle a bit can make the cuts require 4x less force.
Last edited by vivi on Mon Mar 05, 2018 1:39 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Sharpening S110V

#119

Post by Ankerson »

Vivi wrote:
Mon Mar 05, 2018 1:37 pm
sharpness testing is legit and easy to do at home. Somewhere I can scrounge up the setup I made. Simple little block of wood with a nail hammered into each side and a V shaped notch on the top. Loop some sewing thread around both nails and push cut straight down on the thread with the block of wood resting on a postal scale.

The sharpest factory knives took about 80g of force to push cut the thread. Most factory knives took 120-150g of force. My hand sharpened knives, mostly VG10 and S30V finished with a DMT fine stone at the time, got into the 30's.
I use the KN100 Sharpness tester, but everyone has their own ideas.
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Re: Sharpening S110V

#120

Post by vivi »

Ankerson wrote:
Mon Mar 05, 2018 1:39 pm
Vivi wrote:
Mon Mar 05, 2018 1:37 pm
sharpness testing is legit and easy to do at home. Somewhere I can scrounge up the setup I made. Simple little block of wood with a nail hammered into each side and a V shaped notch on the top. Loop some sewing thread around both nails and push cut straight down on the thread with the block of wood resting on a postal scale.

The sharpest factory knives took about 80g of force to push cut the thread. Most factory knives took 120-150g of force. My hand sharpened knives, mostly VG10 and S30V finished with a DMT fine stone at the time, got into the 30's.
I use the KN100 Sharpness tester, but everyone has their own ideas.
I made mine before this product was out. It's basically the same idea, just an incredibly barebones version of it :)

Maybe I'll get one of those some day.
:unicorn
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