My first PM2

[Lancerpt]

Hey guys. I know opinions vary wildly but here we go! I’m getting my first PM2 (which happens to be my first edc). I want to buy based on steel quality and not price. Sharpening isn’t an issue....I’ll take it to my local shop for sharpening. I live in north Texas so average humidity is 35-80%. Looking at S30v, S35vn, S110V, MaXamet, 52100, and new M4 version in March. Just want it to cut like crazy, hold edge we’ll, and not worry about breaking/chipping. I don’t plan on using it for prying....just edc, outdoor, and camping activities. I have a fixed blade beater knife for anything abusive. Which version should I go for to keep in pocket for 20 years.

[soundshaman]

I'm very happy with my M4 pm2. The natural g10 scales will look quite warn and different after a while. The upcoming one is also very tempting!

IMO you could go with any of the ones you listed as long as it's taken care of it'll do well.

[SG89]

s110v

[ZrowsN1s]

s110v

+1

[SF Native]

Any. They are all good and should exceed expectations once broken in.

[Sjucaveman]

My first spyderco was a s110v pm2 and its amazing. I personally prefer my manix 2 in s110v but you can't go wrong with s110v.

[anycal]

Well, perfect timing with the DCL M4 coming out. I just have to make sure I get mine...

It's always a trade off between stainless and non-stainless. It's always a trade off between any steel of different composition, regardless of corrosion resistance. No reason for any of them not lasting 20 years, some with more maintenance than others.

Get the new M4 and don't worry about it.

[mjdragonfly]

if you are good with a HS Tool Steel which will require some extra care then I would go for the M4 as it is the top shelf steel of your given options (overall balance of qualities) imo. If however you would prefer a SS blade then I would get the CPM S110V as it is the next closest high performance steel on your list. I know that ether one would make me very happy Spyderco owner.

I guess I should add that the Maxamet is a really interesting and ultra high performing steel and the hardest on your list by a very wide margin but it is going to be much more involved to sharpen as it is in the very high 60's RC. The 52100 is a very tough steel that takes a keen edge with much less effort than the other steels but does not have the retention of the M4 or S110V and it is not stainless. A coated 52100 would interest me. DLC (diamond like coating) on any of the high carbon or Tool Steels would work for me.
Anything in ZDP-189 would also be a very good compromise of high carbon and tool steel edge retention while being very tough and pretty much a stainless and is a very hard steel also around 64 RC.

[Lancerpt]

Seems like M4 and S110V are leading the votes. As far as Maxamet is concerned I will be taking it to a professional so sharpening difficulty is not a concern. I’d love the M4 but my only reservation is the DLC....I like seeing my steel. Guess I’ll narrow the search down to M4, maxamet, and S110V.

[Sharp Guy]

S110V, M4, etc are great but don't overlook the base S30V models. Add a Sharpmaker for touch ups at home and bring it to your sharpening guy when it's time to reprofile.

[SG89]

My only 2 PM2s were Elmax and Cruwear and I loved them both, sadly they aren't available anymore except on the secondary market. I suggested S110V earlier because it's readily available, very corrosion resistant, great edge retention and you said you would have a professional sharpen it so no worry there on trying to sharpen it yourself. I also am in North Texas and used my elmax pm2 doing outdoor chores during the hot as **** summertime with zero corrosion issues and the g10 and choil keeps the knife in your hand when you are sweating. You are going to love the PM2

[Cycletroll]

I would not overlook the brown s35vn either. It has respectable edge retention, good ease of sharpening, stainless, moderately tough and a low key less "tactical" look. One of my favorite EDC variants.
I own or have owned most of the Sprints and Exclusives and the CF M4, CF 52100, and brown s35vn are my favorites for every day use.

[Lancerpt]

Would you be able to use a strop for keeping a useable edge on the M4 or S110V? No biggie if not. The sharpening charge is only $5 and with those steels I’m sure it would be very occasional.

[Lancerpt]

Sorry guys. One more question tonight. I’ve read S110V likes to keep a toothy edge and can be rough cutting steel. Any truth to this or did someone just not sharpen properly?

[Bill1170]

Sorry guys. One more question tonight. I’ve read S110V likes to keep a toothy edge and can be rough cutting steel. Any truth to this or did someone just not sharpen properly?

I haven’t found that to be true. I run a pretty refined edge on my S110 Manix 2 LW and it cuts smoothly for me.

[Canazes9]

S110V and CPM M4 both will take a highly refined edge or a sharp toothy edge. The sharp toothy edge seems to last longer on the S110V (versus the polished edge). CPM M4 from what I can tell in my limited use seems to favor a refined edge. Regardless, they both hold an edge a long time.

I would be leery of a $5 knife sharpening. For that price I'm guessing they are using power equipment of some sort. Power equipment in general can be problematic as it will tend to overheat the steel at the edge, damaging the temper of the steel, which will produce a brittle chippy edge. This problem is magnified with higher alloy steels as they resist the sharpening and generate even more heat.

David

[mjdragonfly]

here is a link that I am attaching only to show a good visual comparison between a Spyderco factory edge and a custom sharpened Spyderco. You can look at these two edges starting at 9:48 of the video.
Michael Christy also has videos showing how to take an edge to hair whittling sharp level. I have attached a link to one of his videos discussing CPM S110V.

https://youtu.be/7SEEhT6f064
https://youtu.be/YY0XS42l0wY

[BrianMcCord]

s110v

+1

Agree. You won't have to hunt around for it, either.

[mjdragonfly]

Just an observation on non stainless steels (and I am very much biased toward SS and coated non stainless), I have two straight razors both high carbon steel much like a 1095 steel of today both over 100 years old both in very good clean condition. These got wet every day and both spent all their time in a bathroom probably the highest humidity room in the house save for the kitchen. Still for me I want a SS or coated blade to have the comfort that I want.

[Tucson Tom]

Sorry guys. One more question tonight. I’ve read S110V likes to keep a toothy edge and can be rough cutting steel. Any truth to this or did someone just not sharpen properly?

This is in my opinion a hair splitting distinction (no bad pun intended). Some steels seem to do well with a very smooth polished edge and others don't do that so well. As I understand it, they are claiming that S110V falls into the latter category. What this means in practice, if you are using say a sharpmaker, might be that you don't try to refine the edge with the ultrafine stones. But I am still a tyro when it comes to sharpening and trying to pass along my best understanding of things. This is a topic that stirs up controversy, confusion, and discussion.

This being said, the differences are subtle and would only be seen under the microscope. Probably better felt than seen. A toothy edge would be a screaming sharp edge to most people, and could well be a more useful edge for many things. A smooth refined edge can often not feel as sharp, but then surprise you. Sneaky in other words.

I would definitely vote for the S110V for a first PM2. I don't see how you could possibly regret going that way. Nothing wrong with S30V either, but S110V does offer a noticeable improvement. A knife made with S30V is probably going to be a better knife that most folks have ever owned or used. But people around here are spoiled by other steels that are better yet.