Underrated Steels?

[vivi]

What's a steel you think is underrated?

I'll start us off with CTSBD1.

CTSBD1 is one of my favorite stainless steels. I find the performance very similar to VG10 except it is quicker and easier to sharpen. Seems a lot of people rank it a notch below VG10, but I've found their edge holding comparable (As is their carbon content).

I've used this steel in a variety of fixed blades and folders, and in every case it's performed well. My Ronin 2 sharpens up so easily and to such a fine edge that it feels like cheating. I've never gotten tree-topping edges from a stainless this effortlessly. I know if my knife doesn't feel scary sharp, a handful of passes on the sharpmaker will have it blistering sharp.

In addition to the Ronin, I've used it in the Manix and some Cold Steel Voyagers. I took the edge pretty thin on the Ronin 2, and it was already a thin hollow grind, and the edge still holds up great to stuff like carving through knotty wood. The Voyagers and Manix were all used hard, and in all but one case have never chipped, even after being reprofiled. My Voyager XL was accidentally swung into a rock when I was clearing a camp site, chopping away at some undergrowth. The damage wasn't bad at all, and the steel resisted chipping even in this extreme circumstance. It was actually blunting and severe rolling you see in the photo, not chips.

Aside from H1, CTSBD1 is one of the most corrosion resistant steels I've used. I'm one of the first people to corrode any given steel, living in a humid subtropical climate, and I've never rusted CTSBD1. There was once a few faint specks of corrosion appeared on my Ronin 2 ricasso that wiped right off with my thumb, and nothing at all on the folders.

Lastly, it's very economical. The Ronin 2 and Large Voyager retail for about $100 and $50 respectively, both made in Taiwan. The CTSBD1 Manix can be had for under $100, made in USA. The Polestar is under $70.

I feel like I'm the only one that looks for knives in this steel. I really enjoy the sharpening response and high levels of corrosion resistance. I find myself preferring it to a lot of more expensive steels like S30V, S90V etc.

[Loudenboomer]

Under rated steels. I've got one for you 5160 carbon steel. Inexpensive, takes a great edge, tough and ez to sharpen.

[twinboysdad]

VG10. End of thread

[npad69]

vg10 used to be almost everybody's favorite stainless until lc200n came along

[Doc Dan]

BD1 is a pretty good steel. I have a translucent blue Manix 2 LW in the steel. I talked it over with Surfingringo because I was about to buy an S90V, but I really do not like such steels that much. His take was that BD1 is easier to live with and he is happier with it. So, I bought the knife and I have used it a lot and have no complaints at all.

Another steel that gets overlooked because it is older is 50100B/1095V. This is pretty good steel. It is very tough. You can beat on it all day and not hurt it. Plus, it is not too bad in edge retention, either.

[SpyderEdgeForever]

Very good answers on this one so far. Since lc200n has only been out for some time and so far it is an exemplary metal alloy, I think that is one that time will prove out to be very good, as is H1.

This may sound odd, but, at least when Spyderco uses it, in say the Byrd series, 8Cr13MoV is actually a very good and under-rated steel for blades. The quality control that Spyderco has with this steel makes it excellent, at least from my perspective of use and function, and from what I have heard and read from others.

That being said, Spyderco is one of the few companies in the world that I would trust to make a good quality knife from that steel.

[Stuman]

I think 52100 is underrated, ball bearings are tough hard things which is what 52100 is used for and it has the ability to be hardened quite high but folks say it rusts to easey. If you keep a film of oil on the 52100 knife blade as you should with any HCS it will not rust and when you go to oil the pivot oil the blade to oil the blade, it’s common sense. You can etch the blade to as Michael Christy done on you tube on his 52100 PM3 or was 2 I can’t remember, Anyway all of my HCS and now UHCS knives have a film of oil on them and in particular if you live near or do live in costal areas then a film of oil on your knives is a MUST.

[xceptnl]

Properly heat treated AUS-8 and 154CM are both highly undervalued, underappreciated and underrated steels in my opinion. Neither have the greatest edge retention or corrosion resistance, but they are terrific all around steels for EDC knives.

[vivi]

Very good answers on this one so far. Since lc200n has only been out for some time and so far it is an exemplary metal alloy, I think that is one that time will prove out to be very good, as is H1.

This may sound odd, but, at least when Spyderco uses it, in say the Byrd series, 8Cr13MoV is actually a very good and under-rated steel for blades. The quality control that Spyderco has with this steel makes it excellent, at least from my perspective of use and function, and from what I have heard and read from others.

That being said, Spyderco is one of the few companies in the world that I would trust to make a good quality knife from that steel.

I agree on both points. Spydercos 8Cr probably performs differently than cheaper knives with the same steel. I've also had good results with it on my Byrd Cara Caras. Seems a bit more prone to corrosion than VG10, BD1 etc., but it isn't terrible. Holds an edge well enough and sharpens easily.

[Stuman]

Properly heat treated AUS-8 and 154CM are both highly undervalued, underappreciated and underrated steels in my opinion. Neither have the greatest edge retention or corrosion resistance, but they are terrific all around steels for EDC knives.

Agreed, SOG use a lot AUS8 and I’ve used it and they tend to do a good job on the heat treat and it’s better than 8Cr although I do heavily criticise there prices for such a steel but I bought my own for its looks but arguably the blade is the heart and sole of a knife so SOG have a lot to awnser for in that respect. They need to move on to greener pastures when it comes to steels like cold steel did after taking notice of its customers but I’d like to see Spyderco start using YXR7 as that is simply a beast of a steel because it’s a matrix HSS and not a PM steel so it’s toughness and and edge retention are off the scales and so is it’s abilty to resist shock and the way it’s made is facanting. If there was really a new steel for Spyderco to start using it would be defiantly YXR7 and HAP70 as they have already done HAP40. I do ask my self though why aren’t other knife manufacturers using it and I don’t know if it’s hard to get hold of or if it’s only exclusive to Rockstead.

[Doc Dan]

I think 52100 is underrated, ball bearings are tough hard things which is what 52100 is used for and it has the ability to be hardened quite high but folks say it rusts to easey. If you keep a film of oil on the 52100 knife blade as you should with any HCS it will not rust and when you go to oil the pivot oil the blade to oil the blade, it’s common sense. You can etch the blade to as Michael Christy done on you tube on his 52100 PM3 or was 2 I can’t remember, Anyway all of my HCS and now UHCS knives have a film of oil on them and in particular if you live near or do live in costal areas then a film of oil on your knives is a MUST.

Use Vaseline instead. The paraffin in it will cause the mineral oil to stay on the blade. You wipe it on and wipe off all of the excess and you will not have any issues with rust. I even use it to lubricate the action of the knife.

[Surfingringo]

Very good answers on this one so far. Since lc200n has only been out for some time and so far it is an exemplary metal alloy, I think that is one that time will prove out to be very good, as is H1.

This may sound odd, but, at least when Spyderco uses it, in say the Byrd series, 8Cr13MoV is actually a very good and under-rated steel for blades. The quality control that Spyderco has with this steel makes it excellent, at least from my perspective of use and function, and from what I have heard and read from others.

That being said, Spyderco is one of the few companies in the world that I would trust to make a good quality knife from that steel.

Hey SEF, I couldn't agree more! I carried my Meadowlark for a month recently as my EDC and was highly impressed with the performance of the 8cr13 in that knife. Honestly, I don't think I had ever really used that steel in any knife but I had an opinion about it based on all the hate it gets on the internet. In actual use though, I found that 8cr13 (at least with Spyderco's HT) was a real joy to sharpen and use. The edge retention was MORE than adequate for my uses and I want to say that it even seemed better than the BD1 that I had in the first Manix LW but I gave that knife away a long time ago so my memory probably can't be trusted.

[jpm2]

If not for my job, and particular tasks involved, any of the steels commonly regarded as mediocre would be fine for most of my use.
8cr, bd1, 154cm, vg10, 440*, aus8, and such. The simple low/no alloy steels done right (ht) are easy to get a screaming razor sharp edge with nothing special, and do just fine for 90% of what I use a knife for, outside of work.

I like my little bd1 cat, it's a keeper.

It's a blessing and curse for the need of better performing knife steel. On one hand, well versed in what most steels will take before failure, the other hand, more need = more complication.

[BrianMcCord]

Gingami 1, anybody? Really happy with Gin-1 in the SpyderEdge variation.

[Doc Dan]

Gingami 1, anybody? Really happy with Gin-1 in the SpyderEdge variation.

Gin-1 is the same as BD1. No wonder you like it.

[The Mastiff]

8C as done by Spyderco really is pretty good for a stainless. It sharpens and grinds very easily on simple set ups like 420HC, Aus 6, and other steels I've had a lot of experience sharpening for friends and family. Even a complete rebevel is a matter of a few minutes on SiC or other synthetic. It takes whatever edges I need without problems. Sure my everyday carry usually isn't going to be a Byrd but I keep one on my dresser and computer table for use around the house. A Byrd was the first knife I gave to my son.

Gin 1 (and now CTS BD1 ) was on my first Spyderco. It made a good enough impression that I'm here all these years later. It brought me back to the stainless steel using knife world. I had mostly contempt for the performance of the old stainless junk knives I could afford in the 70's and that made me a carbon steel only knife guy until my first "G2" ( Gingami 1 stainless steel) Endura. I actually found a stainless I could use and respect. I still like these steels and it's not just nostalgia . They are good steels for knives.

SK5 carbon steel somewhere around 1080/1084/1085 ( depending on who you are talking to) is a fine and dandy knife steel good for fixed blades. It should be great in folders with the right heat treat but I haven't seen those yet. The China made folders using carbon steels claim to use 1060/1065. They really don't impress me all that much. For probably no great cost difference the China made Schrades could make carbon steel knives that perform like the old and very in demand on the secondary market 1095 Old Timers. I still really like those Old Timers and go out of my way to grab up nice NOS ones when they come available. I'm not the only one either as I see bidding wars and surprisingly high prices over the really nice ones.Those are examples of the non stainless knives that I carried. Try sharpening one of them then a 440C knife with a medium Arkansas stone that came butter knife thick like as was normal back in those days. That is why people took to using bench grinders and finding old mangled knives from the 60's and 70's seems so common.

Joe

[vivi]

Gingami 1, anybody? Really happy with Gin-1 in the SpyderEdge variation.

Gin-1 is the same as BD1. No wonder you like it.

I haven't compared their compositions but I heard there are a few slight differences. They are very close though.

[Doc Dan]

Gingami 1, anybody? Really happy with Gin-1 in the SpyderEdge variation.

Gin-1 is the same as BD1. No wonder you like it.

I haven't compared their compositions but I heard there are a few slight differences. They are very close though.

Not much: http://zknives.com/knives/steels/steelg ... hrn=1&gm=0

[JRinFL]

BD1 and plain old 1095 are very underrated, IMO. Sadly, I fell for the hype of all the latest and greatest super steels when I should have focused on getting the best profile, design, and heat treat for my needs.
VG10 I find to be overrated in my use, same with S90v, and both have performed below the expectations based on the hype.

[SpyderEdgeForever]

Very good answers on this one so far. Since lc200n has only been out for some time and so far it is an exemplary metal alloy, I think that is one that time will prove out to be very good, as is H1.

This may sound odd, but, at least when Spyderco uses it, in say the Byrd series, 8Cr13MoV is actually a very good and under-rated steel for blades. The quality control that Spyderco has with this steel makes it excellent, at least from my perspective of use and function, and from what I have heard and read from others.

That being said, Spyderco is one of the few companies in the world that I would trust to make a good quality knife from that steel.

Hey SEF, I couldn't agree more! I carried my Meadowlark for a month recently as my EDC and was highly impressed with the performance of the 8cr13 in that knife. Honestly, I don't think I had ever really used that steel in any knife but I had an opinion about it based on all the hate it gets on the internet. In actual use though, I found that 8cr13 (at least with Spyderco's HT) was a real joy to sharpen and use. The edge retention was MORE than adequate for my uses and I want to say that it even seemed better than the BD1 that I had in the first Manix LW but I gave that knife away a long time ago so my memory probably can't be trusted.

Exactly! Excellent points (and edges! LOL).

Would you ever consider testing out the standard Spyderco Byrd Cara Cara, perhaps with part serrated edge, on a fishing outing? If you were to estimate how would you consider it's use for everything from cutting up line to cutting up and processing various fish?