Manix II spring tension

[Jammin57]

New to the boards and hoping this is posted correctly. I would like to hear what folks are saying about the spring tension on the Manix II ball bearing lock. The tension on my knife makes it way too hard to close the blade. I have seen some talk about this but have not seen a lot of solutions. Of course I can open the knife and try different spring solutions, but I am saying for the quality and build of this knife I just cannot believe Spyderco intended it this way. Hence my question: Is there a simple solution that I have not seen? Has anyone made any such modifications to their knives? I am surprised there is not already a thread for this subject. Thank you!

[toxophilus]

Hi & welcome to the forum!

Check out the prior thread...

//forum.spyderco.com/viewto ... =2&t=65571

[TomAiello]

Mine have loosened up to a perfect level within a week or so of owning them. They all came a bit stiff, and they all got to "perfect" within a week. Interestingly, they've stayed at the "perfect" level pretty much indefinitely after that. I've never loosened one up so much that I felt like the spring was too weak.

For whatever reason, the s90v/CF sprint run had the stiffest spring out of the box, and the LWs seem the loosest out of the box to me.

[gmhauy]

??? Can't remember having an issue with my first Manix 2 (G10 / 154 CM, I don't own it any more).
Never had a problem with the CF / Cruwear, just firm enough to avoid accidental unlocking.

[Johnnie1801]

Thing to remember is that the Ball Bearing Lock is not an Axis Lock, it's always going to be stiff but maybe that's a good thing, it won't accidentally close on you. Both of my Manix's have loosened up over time to the point where I can just use my thumb to operate the lock.

[kirilpetkov]

https://youtu.be/H6sF05dI5C0

[gmhauy]

https://youtu.be/H6sF05dI5C0

Cannot do that with the Cruwear (one finger unlocking) - definitely need two fingers, but one handed operation is fine, I don't feel like I need to use excessive force.

Gerard

[kirilpetkov]

I apologize for my bad English. I've done tuning on my manix. I changed the metal ball with ceramic balls -Silicon-Nitride Ceramic https://www.mcmaster.com/#ceramic-balls/=1a9quhn , I also changed the spring with the same but soft https://www.mcmaster.com/#1986K46.







https://youtu.be/yXOzTlhEBNI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_cont ... G9SgjNMm3k

[gmhauy]

I apologize for my bad English. I've done tuning on my manix. I changed the metal ball with ceramic balls -Silicon-Nitride Ceramic https://www.mcmaster.com/#ceramic-balls/=1a9quhn , I also changed the spring with the same but soft

OK then, I understand why it's so smooth, nice job :)

Gerard

[TriggerThumb]

I've had my s110v lw for a couple weeks, constant daily opening/closing. Mine still basically requires 2 hands to disengage the lock.

[Sharp Guy]

I have several Manix 2s and the lock springs have never softened up on any of them. If they do they're not very good springs. If anything my fingers might've become a little stronger. I can use just my thumb to close the blade but it's not easy for me to do. So I generally use my thumb on one side, index finger on the other and my other fingers use the clip for leverage. I pull the butt of handle into the palm of my hand and pull back on both sides of the lock. No problems closing the blade that way. It is a little awkward to close with my left hand because I can't use the clip for leverage. I don't really use a knife with my left hand anyway so not a big deal to me.

Sometimes I do wish they'd use a little lighter spring but I also like knowing the blade will stay in the handle until I need it and that it will stay locked open until I choose to close it.

[anoir]

i just opened my manix 2 m4 jade version and cut 1/5 of the spring, then extended the spring by a clamp back to its origin length.

it is very smooth now.

[spyderg]

The first week or so I had mine, it seemed stiff. After that it felt a bit easier. I think for the most part though, it was me just getting used to it. It’s not exactly a motion most people do on a regular basis. Once your hand gets used to moving the lock, and you build up strength doing it, it becomes much easier.

[Stuman]

New to the boards and hoping this is posted correctly. I would like to hear what folks are saying about the spring tension on the Manix II ball bearing lock. The tension on my knife makes it way too hard to close the blade. I have seen some talk about this but have not seen a lot of solutions. Of course I can open the knife and try different spring solutions, but I am saying for the quality and build of this knife I just cannot believe Spyderco intended it this way. Hence my question: Is there a simple solution that I have not seen? Has anyone made any such modifications to their knives? I am surprised there is not already a thread for this subject. Thank you!

Jammin57, I have 7 Manix’es and collect them and they all work flawlessly. You don’t want to be taking your Manix 2s apart risking your warranty. The secret to a easey opening lock on a Manix 2 is time !, you need to play with you Manix a lot and get that spring worked in as a spring losses it’s tension over time and the more you use it the more it will lose tension, they all reach a sweet spot. The other thing is that Spyderco use Red threadlock so you may damage either your screws or your tools trying to get them out. If you really think that you need it looked at send it to Spyderco as any parts damaged during disassembley will be replaced by Spyderco free as it’s Spydercos fault.

[TriggerThumb]

Edit: Oops, syntax error. :rolleyes:

[TriggerThumb]

Jammin57, I have 7 Manix’es and collect them and they all work flawlessly. You don’t want to be taking your Manix 2s apart risking your warranty. The secret to a easey opening lock on a Manix 2 is time !, you need to play with you Manix a lot and get that spring worked in as a spring losses it’s tension over time and the more you use it the more it will lose tension, they all reach a sweet spot. The other thing is that Spyderco use Red threadlock so you may damage either your screws or your tools trying to get them out. If you really think that you need it looked at send it to Spyderco as any parts damaged during disassembley will be replaced by Spyderco free as it’s Spydercos fault.

As far as I knew the warranty changed, as well as the red loctite issue, at least from the knives coming out of Colorado which were known for it. Although I would assume trimming the spring would still void the warranty, it's better than having a nearly unusable knife. Apparently you don't have this problem but many do, it's a known issue. Especially with the lightweights seeing as how they are pinned and unable to be modded. Lastly, many people also have never experienced a "loosening" of the spring. As sharpguy suggested, if your spring changes in tension from use its probably a somehow defective spring. I have noticed the finger grips that rub against the scales are extremely tight tolerances, and rubbing together may loosen the whole mechanism somewhat, but not enough to compensate if your spring is too stiff. Just my 2 cents, as they say "YMMV

[koenigsegg]

I'm glad they changed the policy, I opened my Manix the other night. I've tried cleaning it without taking it apart but it didn't fix the real issue which was the pivot pin had a lot of oil and gunk and made the action gummy. Bit of rubbing alcohol cleaned it right up and now it's as smooth as my new ones. I never really had an issue with the spring tension but I have noticed it can be different from knife to knife, it's possible you got a stiffer one than normal.

[Diamondback]

I think I perhaps got lucky because the stock Manix 2 C101GP2 I order last week arrived with a very smooth action...with less tension than that on the HK Axis Benchmade I own.

This is my first Manix 2, and I must say, the work coming out of Golden is exceptional. This is a VERY well put together knife!

[Evil D]

Guys keep in mind, a weaker spring equals a weaker lock. A softer spring means the ball is more likely to disengage the tang. It may be less fun as a fidget toy but it's safer and stronger as a knife.

[TriggerThumb]

Guys keep in mind, a weaker spring equals a weaker lock. A softer spring means the ball is more likely to disengage the tang. It may be less fun as a fidget toy but it's safer and stronger as a knife.

Unless it causes pain and/or is almost impossible to use as a practical tool. Granted it is for heavier use than a non locking knife, they exist. And if the use of the knife demands a lock that isn't practical to use, a fixed blade is probably the tool best suited for the job. I don't baton with my knife, particularly with a more fragile steel like s110v, and therefore expect frequent slicing to be the assumed pretense for my knife. As it stands I have not seen a manix suited to this use.