Depending upon when your Shun Classic (DM0#?) was made it may have the newer VG10 Max which I believe is Takefu Cobalt Special (CoS). It should be laser engraved on the blade.
Regardless, I sharpen all of my Japanese kitchen knives with a 20°micro-bevel for maximum edge retention, that is, I sharpen through all fours steps of the Sharpmaker @15° until hair popping sharp, then I change the white rods to 20° (flats facing each other) and give the edge several alternating light strokes for a micro-bevel. This will give you a stronger edge that has approximately the same resistance (ease of cutting) of the 15°. With kitchen knives, the majority of edge wear and deformation is due to what you are cutting on, that is your cutting board, rather than what you are cutting through, with the exception of bones, peach pits, etc. This is why one should not cut on granite, Corian, glass, stainless steel, ceramic, or other hard surfaces. End grain natural wood or bamboo are the least dulling, followed by edge or flat grain wood or bamboo, then epicurean (craft paper laminate), and polyethylene. Consequently, having a stronger edge with minimum resistance works best for me and those customers I have taught the technique to. The other advantage of micro-bevel sharpening, is that the 20°micro-bevel edge it is much faster to re-sharpen (touch up)—usually just 2-3 firm strokes on the white flats followed by 3-6 progressively lighter strokes than single bevel sharpening as there is significantly less steel to remove (polish) as the width of this edge bevel is very small. One can re-sharpen the 20°micro-bevel dozens of times until one can see the micro-bevel, now macro-bevel with the naked eye or in my case reading glasses. At that point, one starts the process over again by resharpening the major bevel @15°…..