Shaman problems

[Alchemy1]

Hello all,

I just picked up a Shaman, new from an authorized retailer. The first few times I opened the knife, the action was firm, but not tight. After cycling the action a few more times, the knife became very stiff. Almost unbearably stiff. I don’t usually like messing with brand new knives, but I decided to loosen the pivot a hair today. I turned the pivot screw roughly 1/8th of a turn looser. The action was better and the blade was just able to drop free (not a major goal of mine). However, when I checked for blade play, the knife had play in all directions. Unfortunately, I did not check for blade play before turning the screw. I have since tightened the screw maybe 1/16th of a turn and the action is stiff, but not as stiff as before, but the blade play is still there. The detent is also VERY firm on this copy. It’s a struggle to break the detent opening the knife normally and there’s no way to flick the knife open at all. Any tips, suggestions, hints or did I just get a dud?

The compression lock is also pretty sticky. I haven’t added any oil to the knife.

[BrianMcCord]

Oil, I think would be your best first step. Compression locks can sometimes be sticky until broken in. Some come from the factory without issue and require very little break-in, some can be a little sticky.

Also, scribbling on the lock face with a pencil (graphite) can keep a compression lock from binding.

[mattman]

I don't think he's having lock stick, Brian...?

I would suggest loosening the pivot again, and flushing the pivot area with WD 40, drying (preferably with compressed air) then lubing the pivot (not with wd40), and readjusting the pivot tension.

Sounds like there's some residual grit from manufacture that has dislodged from it's hiding spot, and is fouling your action.

[twinboysdad]

My Shaman was very tight...which I like. Not flickable and no swing shut closing. Sound like yours? I knew mine would break in, but I sold it to a fellow forumite.

[Eli Chaps]

I would say if you are not happy, send it back. You should not have to mess around with a new knife and there might be something that Spyderco needs to know.

[Alchemy1]

Oil, I think would be your best first step. Compression locks can sometimes be sticky until broken in. Some come from the factory without issue and require very little break-in, some can be a little sticky.

Also, scribbling on the lock face with a pencil (graphite) can keep a compression lock from binding.

There is some lock stick, but I don’t want to do anything, yet, that’s going to prevent me from returning the knife, if need be.

[Alchemy1]

I don't think he's having lock stick, Brian...?

I would suggest loosening the pivot again, and flushing the pivot area with WD 40, drying (preferably with compressed air) then lubing the pivot (not with wd40), and readjusting the pivot tension.

Sounds like there's some residual grit from manufacture that has dislodged from it's hiding spot, and is fouling your action.

That’s what i was afraid of. Usually, I’d just take the knife apart, clean it, and reapply lube. The knife is new though and I don’t want to do anything that may prevent me from being able to return the knife.

[Alchemy1]

My Shaman was very tight...which I like. Not flickable and no swing shut closing. Sound like yours? I knew mine would break in, but I sold it to a fellow forumite.

It’s tight, but not in a good way. It literally fatigues my hand after a few openings and closings.

[Alchemy1]

I would say if you are not happy, send it back. You should not have to mess around with a new knife and there might be something that Spyderco needs to know.

As much as I hate to say it, it’s seeming like this may be the direction I have to go in.

[Surfingringo]

I don't think he's having lock stick, Brian...?

`I would suggest loosening the pivot again, and flushing the pivot area with WD 40, drying (preferably with compressed air) then lubing the pivot (not with wd40), and readjusting the pivot tension.

Sounds like there's some residual grit from manufacture that has dislodged from it's hiding spot, and is fouling your action.

I would suggest this too. I would loosen the pivot and might even blow it out with a water hose or high pressure faucet. Lube, retighten and adjust. Grit or tiny metal shards in the pivot can make a knife hard to open/close while still exhibiting blade play.

I kind of agree with what Eli says too but it could be as simple as the above solution and I would at least give it a try before going to the hassle of sending it back.

[mpcgimli]

I had a similar problem with my new PM2 . When the lock was disengaged, it would swing freely, so the pivot-area was not the issue; but otherwise, the detent"ball" on the compression-lock- leaf would audibly grind against the blade, and prevent the knife from opening as it should. Flicking it open was impossible as it would get stuck at around 100 degrees (180 being the endgoal).
Oiling the area around the mentioned detent ball (I used the victorinox multi tool oil) healed my knife. Now it swings like it was meant to.

[Alchemy1]

I don't think he's having lock stick, Brian...?

`I would suggest loosening the pivot again, and flushing the pivot area with WD 40, drying (preferably with compressed air) then lubing the pivot (not with wd40), and readjusting the pivot tension.

Sounds like there's some residual grit from manufacture that has dislodged from it's hiding spot, and is fouling your action.

I would suggest this too. I would loosen the pivot and might even blow it out with a water hose or high pressure faucet. Lube, retighten and adjust. Grit or tiny metal shards in the pivot can make a knife hard to open/close while still exhibiting blade play.

I kind of agree with what Eli says too but it could be as simple as the above solution and I would at least give it a try before going to the hassle of sending it back.

I usually wouldn’t mind breaking the knife down, cleaning it, and reassembling. I’m just concerned that doing that or flushing it with wd40 and then oiling will mean the knife won’t be “like new” as the return policy states. I’m going to have to think on this one for a bit.

I had a similar problem with my new PM2 . When the lock was disengaged, it would swing freely, so the pivot-area was not the issue; but otherwise, the detent"ball" on the compression-lock- leaf would audibly grind against the blade, and prevent the knife from opening as it should. Flicking it open was impossible as it would get stuck at around 100 degrees (180 being the endgoal).
Oiling the area around the mentioned detent ball (I used the victorinox multi tool oil) healed my knife. Now it swings like it was meant to.

My detent does sound like it’s scraping the tang as it opens. I just thought it was the crazy amount of lock bar tension/detent. Hmmmm...

[Johnnie1801]

Add a bit of grease to the detent ball

[xceptnl]

Good to see you drop by Alchemy, been a long time. I would suggest as others have. Loosen the pivot as much as possible, flush with water, then compressed air and WD-40, apply lube and retighten. I know that the blade finish can cabe an effect on the feel of the detent ball until it fully breaks in.

[Brock O Lee]

The Shaman has a polished detent path on the blade tang, so I'm surprised to hear you seem to have a lot of friction in that area.

If flushing out the knife doesn’t have an effect, my other guess is that you might have a burr on the liner around the pivot area.

I received a good specimen. It broke in quickly and the action is excellent and similar to my PM2’s, flick open and drop shut.

[Wrathhog]

Add a bit of grease to the detent ball

I'd try this. Worked on a new Southard for me.

[Alchemy1]

I appreciate all the help guys. I called and talked to Hammer at DLT. He suggested I just send it back and they exchange it. He even told me to add a note if I want them to look for anything in particular before they shipped my new one out. Great service as always.

[Alchemy1]

Good to see you drop by Alchemy, been a long time. I would suggest as others have. Loosen the pivot as much as possible, flush with water, then compressed air and WD-40, apply lube and retighten. I know that the blade finish can cabe an effect on the feel of the detent ball until it fully breaks in.

Hahaha! I hang around. I just lurk much more than post. Good to hear from you, buddy.

[Bloody Fingerz]

I thought I’d share my experience so far as I’m also having a problem with my second shaman. The first one I bought was a plain edge and it’s flawless and beautiful. I liked it so much I ordered the serrated directly from Spyderco. It was a bit stiff but shut with a slight flick of the wrist. There was no side to side blade play but you could detect a small bit of up and down and even hear the movement in a quiet room. It was as if the compression liner wouldn’t seat fully. It didn’t matter if it was opened softly or with more authority, same result. I could see where it made contact on the blade tang from the oil I used to try and smooth it out. It was bothering the heck out of me as my other compression lock knives lock up nice and tight. I sent it in to Spyderco today in hopes they can tighten it up for me. I’ll report back when knife returns. I’m sure the boys in Golden will take care of me.

[SpeedHoles]

Mine was quite tight as new, probably tightest Compression Lock knife I've bought new.

But, on purpose, I left it that way. Used it a LOT, and by now, a couple of months later it is smooth, controlled, and laterally tight and crisp. Without ever touching the pivot yet.
After a week or so, I did lightly grease the detent ball.