Ronin

modo7 · #1

Michael: I am fortunate to have both an original Ronin and I just received the Spyderco Ronin. I am extremely impressed with the Spyderco version.

My question to you is: How do you think the two compare in terms of sharpness since the grinds are different? On my simple tests, both perform quite impressively but I wanted to seek out your opinion.

Thanks

#2

Dear Modo7:

Congratulations on being a Ronin overachiever!

I also feel there is little or no performance difference between the custom and production Ronins. I chose the chisel (high hollow on one side, no grind on the other) for the Snody version because he is one of the few makers who does chisel grinds right. The idea is to eliminate one bevel to keep the edge geometry thin. On the Spyderco version, I chose to achieve the same thing with a full double flat grind. During the development phase, I tried one of the prototypes that had a partial flat grind, but didn't feel the edge geometry was as good.

In my ballistic cutting tests I was extremely pleased with both versions of the knife. Since the Snody versions I own have more collectors value and are extremely difficult to replace, I now carry a Spyderco Ronin daily. I'm willing to bet my life on it and my skills to use it. That's how much I like it.

Thanks for your interest in the Ronin (and your exceptionally good taste in defensive knives).

Stay safe,

mike j

modo7 · #3

Thanks. You just gave the highest recommendation for the Spyderco Ronin I could imagine. In fact, the very reason I bought one was so I could put my original one in the safe. Yes - it is a bit of an overachiement to have two but I liked it so much I had to get the Spyderco version to carry. Your thoughts confirmed my impressions.

I am extremely impressed by the fit, finish and function of the Spyderco.

Outstanding job!

Thanks

musashipug · #4

Wow !! Just got my 1st Spyderco Ronin delivered today. That tip is wicked sharp. Have there been posts in the past on the concept of this knife's design and use? Thanks.

argyll · #5

Welcome to the forum Musashipug. Yes, Mike Janich has been generous in previously answering questions regarding his thought process in choosing both the blade and handle design. Try using the search feature.

Best regards,

Argyll

#6

Dear Musashipug:

I second Argyll's welcome to the MBC forum and thank you for your interest in the Ronin. To save you some time, here's a copy of my original response to a similar question from Mort:

I developed the Ronin design as a folder first, after doing some ballistic cutting experiments with different styles of blades. My tests revealed that the most efficient cutting weapons are those that take the cutting edge all the way to the point and apply pressure into the cut throughout the entire cutting stroke. Conventional fighting knife design dictates that the blade have a curve or “belly” to the cutting edge to allow it to cut and slash effectively. However, when held in a natural grip and wielded in a cutting motion, most knives of this type reach a point in their arc of travel where the angle of the cutting edge and the arc of the arm run parallel. At this point, the knife no longer applies pressure into the target being cut and in many cases actually pushes the target away from the cutting edge.

Conversely, the straight cutting edge of the Ronin applies constant cutting pressure into the target and typically cuts at least ¾-inch deeper than traditional blade designs of comparable length. The chisel edge created by the single hollow grind further enhances the Ronin’s cutting power by creating superior edge geometry that cuts with almost no drag.

The tapered back of the blade meets the tip to form an extremely sharp point that also outperforms traditional designs. As the point is thrust into a target, the back of the blade acts as a ramp, pushing the cutting edge downward. This downward force, combined with the shearing cutting motion of the edge enables the Ronin to penetrate deeply with very little effort.

The handle of the Ronin is tapered toward the butt like many traditional Japanese blades. This taper naturally fits the “cone” formed by the last three fingers of the hand and anchors the handle firmly to the meaty portion of the palm. The single finger groove for the index finger and low positioning of the cutting edge create a very functional guard that makes it impossible for the hand to slide forward onto the blade. It also puts the cutting edge in line with the knuckles of the fingers, making it less likely that the hand will impact before the edge, minimizing the force of the cut.

The grooved area on the back of the Ronin’s blade provides a solid purchase that encourages the user to extend the thumb forward into a Filipino grip. In this position, the blade becomes a natural extension of the thumb and can be employed with great power and almost instinctive control.

Although I made a working liner-lock prototype of the Ronin and pitched it to a number of knife companies, it wasn't until Mike Snody asked me for my input on a neck knife design that it really took off. I adapted the folder design to a fixed blade, sent the drawing to Mike, and he made it a reality.

I hope this answers your questions. Thanks for asking.

Stay safe,

mike j

bildrac · #7

Mike,

Ya see, that only makes me want the folding version even more (California frowns on concealled carry of fixed blade knives), and with greater impatience compells me to ask, "Do you know when when it will be out?" :D It is literally 'the knife' I've been waiting for all these years but didn't know it till I saw those photos.

Best regards,

Laurence

musashipug · #8

Michael: Thanks for your response. I've been trying the different carries. Question, do you leave the Tek lock on when carrying in neck knife mode? I'll be in Fredricsburg,VA this weekend taking a two day seminar with W.Hock Hochheim and plan to show those interested the "Ronin". <img src="smile.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0>

#9

Dear Musashipug:

Thanks for the question.

No, I don't leave the Tek-Lok on when carrying as a neck knife. Remove it and stick it and the screws in a Zip-Loc bag in your gun safe or drawer. The knife will carry flatter and be less likely to print that way.

By the way, I will be adding a Ronin history/tips page to my web site (www.martialbladecraft.net) within the next week. It will provide further suggestions on the carry and concealment of the Ronin.

Have a great time at Hock's class and please tell him I said hello.

Stay safe,

mike j

musashipug · #10

Thanks. Should the bottom tip of the Ronin's handle be even with the lower tip of the breast bone (xiphoid process) to prevent the "print"? Sorry if I"m asking too detailed questions but I'm a Physical Therapist by profession.
I will certainally say "HI' to Hock from you. Domo, Roger

#11

Dear Musashipug:

The height of the carry is really an individual thing. A person with an average build can get by with the handle extending below the xiphoid process. This makes drawing a bit easier because you don't have to reach up so high. If you keep the end of the handle above the navel, it won't anchor there and push the top of the sheath out when you bend over.

If middle age has turned your six-pack abs into a keg, you may find that allowing the handle to extend beyond the hollow of the sternum causes the knife to print.

Like any other concealment decision, the best way to approach neck knife carry is to take a few hours and go through your closet. A personal "tactical fashion show" will force you to try your carry with everything you typically wear so you can sort out the details of your carry system. For example, if you like tight white t-shirts, neck knives probably aren't going to work well for you. Don't blame the knife. Make your fashion statement and figure out a good way to carry somewhere else.

Again, the best way to find what works for you is to experiment with different carry heights, move around, bend, and adapt the knife and carry to your body and style of dress.

You might also consider trying a secondary anchor on your neck sheath to keep it against your body. A piece of narrow elastic from a sewing store tied into the grommets in the sheath and run around your back is a nice way to keep the sheath tight against you and reduce printing. The elastic will also flex as you move and provide enough stretch to give your draw angle some flexibility.

I hope this helps.

Stay safe,

mike j

musashipug · #12

Once again thank you so much for the feedback. I'm thinking more and more of getting to one of your seminars. Thanks for being there! <img src="smile.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0>

K Williams · #13

Does anyone here have large hands(I wear 9.5 to 10 in glove sizes)? How does the handle feel. I prefer handles on fixed blades to be at least 4.5" long to be able to use the end as a punyo. Thanks in advance.

K. Williams

#14

Dear K. Williams:

Thanks for your post. Please bear in mind that the Ronin was originally conceived as a neck knife/deep concealment knife. The handle is designed to provide plenty of control in normal use, but is really too small to allow punyo work.

The Yojimbo (folding Ronin), on the contrary, was designed to offer a very potent, tapered punyo. One of my private students who has the same hand size and handle preferences you do owns a Ronin, but really preferred the handle on the custom and prototype Yojimbos I showed him.

If punyo work is a must for you, I'd suggest you wait for a Yojimbo.

Thanks again for your post and your interest in my designs.

Stay safe,

mike j

K Williams · #15

Mr. Janich,

Thanks for the reply. I'll wait for the Yojimbo to hit the market.

K. Williams

musashipug · #16

Michael,
Hock told to me to say hello to you. He said some nice things about you and your work. He did mention how you were open to feedback on trainning issues. I showed him the Spyderco Ronin this A.M. and he liked it and the whole neck knife concept.

Roger

#17

Dear Musashipug:

Thanks for your efforts as social middle man and for showing Hock the Ronin. I'm glad he liked the design and hope you enjoyed the training.

Stay safe,

mike j

musashipug · #18

Mike, Several people in the class this past weekend thought the Ronin looked like a "work" knife in the box cutter sense. Overall they were very positive about the knife.

Rex G · #19

I just got my Ronin today, and I am impressed. I knew it was a very good design, but did not know if it would fit me, with my narrow hands and thin fingers. I also tend to prefer defensive knives with which I can use the pommel end for pressure points and striking. Well, lo and behold, the Ronin's handle is just long enough to do that for me. The Ronin works for me in forward or reverse grip, edge forward or to the rear. It works for me in the hammer grip or in Michael's recommended Filipino grip. Michael, you did very well with the Ronin! My compliments, also, to all who contributed to the design and construction of the sheath. The fact that it looks much like a utility tool or specialized kitchen knife will also be helpful when going through security screening or clearing customs, I would think. Too bad I didn't order one of the ones made by Mr. Snody when Bladeart had them in stock a few years ago! I liked the design then, and wish I would have acted upon the urge....

#20

Dear Musashipug and Rex G:

Thanks for your posts. In regard to the former, the wharncliff blade profile IS very much like a utility knife and cuts well for many of the same reasons. The fact that it makes it more socially acceptable is a very good thing and, I must admit, not at all accidental.

Thank you, Rex, for your comments about the knife. I'm glad it fits your hand well and really appreciate the thoroughness of your evaluation. You've obviously done your homework and, very importantly, taken the time and effort to determine what works best for YOU. That is the mark of a real armed professional.

Stay safe,

mike j