Syderco sharpmaker

[Docgary1]

Purchased sharpmaker 1 week ago and started sharpening every blade on site!

Wonderful tool!

Question:

While going thru the process of sharpening my manix 2 CPM S30V
I found that my blade had a sharper edge after using the gray stones
Compared to finishing with the white!

I went thru the entire process several times and found a finer edge
After the grays..

Comments..?

[Bloke]

Welcome to the forum! :)

I think sharp and sharper are very subjective terms. :rolleyes:

I don't think anyone can say for sure but I can't see the fine stone diminishing the edge. Maybe the coarser edge that the medium grit stone produces simply felt sharper than the finer edge the fine stone produces.

[ZrowsN1s]

Purchased sharpmaker 1 week ago and started sharpening every blade on site!

Wonderful tool!

Question:

While going thru the process of sharpening my manix 2 CPM S30V
I found that my blade had a sharper edge after using the gray stones
Compared to finishing with the white!

I went thru the entire process several times and found a finer edge
After the grays..

Comments..?

Welcome to the forum Docgary1. Not the results I would expect. But I'd say if you found a technique that works for you, keep doing it.

[sal]

Hi DocGary,

Welcome to our forum.

The edge will feel sharp after the gray stones because the edge is coarser and easier to "feel" with the fingertips. I think you will find that the edge will shave hair easier with the fine finish on the white stones.

Also, the steel being sharpened also makes a difference.

sal

[mattman]

Fine stones might be loaded up?

If so, get yourself some Barkeeper's Friend scouring powder, and never look back...

[Docgary1]

Thx for responses..

I’m thinking that my edge is coarser and easier to feel after greys

Ordered the ultra fine ....looking for that Razor edge...

[mrtodd777]

Unfortunately, ever since purchasing the sharpmaker, I have encountered the exact same problem. It must be something I am doing wrong. After using the Medium rods my edge slices paper and shaves arm hair fairly easy. Then after using the white stones (fine) I can no longer achieve the same results. Does anyone ave any insight as to what I might be doing wrong??

[ZrowsN1s]

..... Does anyone ave any insight as to what I might be doing wrong??

I'm not sure if you are doing anything wrong or not, but when I'm having sharpening "issues", I find the quickest way for me to get different results (not necessarily better but different), is to change the amount of pressure I am using to sharpen. Try using a lighter touch on the white stones and see if that makes a difference. You may also want to check out a plain leather strop. Hope that helps.

[JD Spydo]

From a guy who has owned and used two Sharpmakers since the late 90s/early 2000s I can tell you that it is the very best kit type sharpener period. I've checked out and I even own 3 other kit type sharpeners but the 204 Sharpmaker is the best in my humble opinion.

I do have a couple of recommendations for enjoying your ownership of the Sharpmaker>> first and foremost get all the extra stones you can get for it like the Ultra-Fine stones, the Diamond stones and even the CBN stones. I use my Sharpmaker units so much that I routinely replace my gray/medium stones about every 18 months or so because they tend to wear out to some degree. The others with the possible exception of the diamond stones will possibly last you for years as long as you use them properly.

Also keep your stones clean by using Ajax or Comet and then use Bar Keeper's Friend cleanser for the final cleaning of them. Keeping your stones clean gives them a good uniform, even bite and they just abrade more consistently. One more item>> find some type of clamping system you are comfortable with to clamp the base unit so it will be solid and stationary when using it. I use Vise Grip welder's clamps myself but small furniture clamps work good too.

I like all of Spyderco's sharpening tools and I own almost all of them. The Sharpmaker is a great choice for a guy who is a consistent knife user.

[atv223]

Unfortunately, ever since purchasing the sharpmaker, I have encountered the exact same problem. It must be something I am doing wrong. After using the Medium rods my edge slices paper and shaves arm hair fairly easy. Then after using the white stones (fine) I can no longer achieve the same results. Does anyone ave any insight as to what I might be doing wrong??

I've had my Sharpmaker nearly a year now. When I first started using it, I was having the same issue. Do an experiment. After medium rods, do the Fine rods, but only on the corners and then test how sharp it is. If my hunch is right, you'll find that your edge is sharper.

It seems fairly easy to sharpen on the corners, the flats take more practice at holding the edge against it and curving with the blade. I think I was dulling the edge on the fine flats initially. With practice and a steady hand your technique will improve.

I'm still trying to get a hair whittling edge. Not for any real practical reason, just to say I can. :)

[Evil D]

I tend to have the opposite results. I can get a very sharp edge on the brown rods that certainly feels toothy and sharp to my fingers and will shave and all that but going up through the fine and ultra fine always takes it to the next level.

[vivi]

I tend to have the opposite results. I can get a very sharp edge on the brown rods that certainly feels toothy and sharp to my fingers and will shave and all that but going up through the fine and ultra fine always takes it to the next level.

That's my experience too.

One more item>> find some type of clamping system you are comfortable with to clamp the base unit so it will be solid and stationary when using it. I use Vise Grip welder's clamps myself but small furniture clamps work good too.

Not to say my method is any better or worse than yours, JD, but this bit stood out to me. When I use my sharpmaker, I use light enough pressure that I leave the base un-clamped, and I use it one handed. Nothing holding the sharpmaker in place. It's one of the reasons I never bother with the brass guard rods (In fact I threw them away over a decade ago).

https://streamable.com/jwncz

Sometimes I might secure the base when sharpening serrated edges, but never plain edges.

When doing quick touch-ups to either PE or SE knives, I often hold the sharpmaker in my left hand with one rod laying down like in this video. Picture me holding the bottom of the sharpmaker base in my left hand while I sharpen the para 2 with my right.

https://streamable.com/0d284

My sharpmaker is usually laying on my desk with a brown and white rod laying down on either side, which lets me quickly touch-up most any of my knives.

I setup both rods in the typical method when doing more focused sharpening. Sometimes I'm just bringing the bite back to a dulled edge. Other times I'm moving slow and going for the ultimate refinement...e.g. an edge that effortlessly whittles free hanging hairs.

[Robert Ptacek]

I use a variation of Vivi's technique but with a loose grip with just enough control to maintain vertical.It is something you need to practice at because firmer pressure is always easier to do than a delicate touch and it seems that such a light touch could accomplish anything but my edges have markedly improved with less work.Pressure is everything.I dabbled with this 20 years ago but drifted away for some reason.It wasn't until I was reading product description in the Spyderco catalog on using the loose grip with serrations and the light bulb went off again.After finishing sharpening I would drag the edges across the plastic cap of a "Wet Ones" container and a wooden spoon to see if I was just standing up the burr and the edges suffered no degradation so the edges are durable and whittle hair.Good enough for me.

[DunninLA]

Hey fellas, haven't been around for awhile but I am about to order three new kitchen knives and want to know how to use the Sharpmaker on two kinds of Japanese steel:

1) VG-10 at 60. Tojiro DP Chef and paring knives
2) Aogami Blue #2 at 62-63 in my Gihei Santoku

All of my sharp maker experience has been on knives in the 52-55 range, and so many people say you HAVE TO HAVE STONES to sharpen Japanese steels.

I have the diamond, brown, and white stones. Sounds from other posts I need to order the ultra fine stones (with red marking on heel). I also have this green leather stropping block from Knives Plus: https://www.amazon.com/Knives-Plus-Stro ... ZQNJ0HCTZD I occasionally put mineral oil on it. And actually sometimes instead of the stropping block I just look for an amazon cardboard box and do one or two stropping passes on it lightly.

Which stones: So the question is-- which stone to start on to clean up what will probably be only OK factory edges on all three knives? Do I forget about brown and just go straight to white, and then to ultra fine white? Do I bother stropping? I've read it's easy to ruin a decent edge by stropping unless you have really good technique. How many passes? Do I use very light pressure as some above suggest?

Which angles? I just got an answer from Mark at CKTG that both the Tojiro DP and the Gihei are about 14 degrees. So if that is the case I should be safe using the 30 degree angle on the Sharpmaker to touch it up and put a 15 degree secondary bevel on it? I know I can use the sharpie marker to make sure if at 15 degrees I'm actually touching the primary cutting bevel.

Thanks for your input.

[xceptnl]

Which stones: So the question is-- which stone to start on to clean up what will probably be only OK factory edges on all three knives? Do I forget about brown and just go straight to white, and then to ultra fine white? Do I bother stropping? I've read it's easy to ruin a decent edge by stropping unless you have really good technique. How many passes? Do I use very light pressure as some above suggest?

It is true you can ruin a good edge with too much pressure on a strop. When I have used mine (knivesplus with loaded black or green compounds) I usually make very light passes while holding the knife handle in only a two finger grip. I primarily use my loaded strop to buff out scratches on the primary grind when they appear.

Which angles? I just got an answer from Mark at CKTG that both the Tojiro DP and the Gihei are about 14 degrees. So if that is the case I should be safe using the 30 degree angle on the Sharpmaker to touch it up and put a 15 degree secondary bevel on it? I know I can use the sharpie marker to make sure if at 15 degrees I'm actually touching the primary cutting bevel.

Thanks for your input.

You should be safe to use the 15 degree setting. You will likely have +/- 1 degree of error anyway. The sharpie is always a good tool to use though. Regardless of experience.

[ZMW]

I had the same problem, probably a technique issue. I agree the flats take more time to learn and use, so stick with the corners. And use light pressure, I think that makes a difference. More practice, and mix up what you are doing until you find what works for you

[DunninLA]

I just realized this whole thread should be in the sharpening section, but it's here, so ... two of my three questions were answered... yes, strop very lightly, and 15 degrees should be fine with 12-14 degree workshop edges...

The last question which wasn't answered yet is -- which spyderco rods do I use when a blue #2 blade starts to get less sharp in the kitchen? do I go brown, fine, ultra fine, green loaded strop, or fine, ultra fine, strop, or ultrafiine, strop? Oh, I returned the Tojiro DP set and bought an Anryu 132mm petty/ so my two primary knives are now Gihei 165mm santoku, and Anryu 132mm petty. Both Blue #2 clad in stainless, hardened to 62/63, and both somewhere between 12-14 degrees.

[Evil D]

I guess it depends on how dull the edge is or if it has any chipping or rolling. I touch up my edges daily and I tend to use the ultra fine rods just for touch ups, they basically take the place of a strop for my uses. If I really use the heck out of a knife and really blunt the edge then I'll drop down to the browns and work my way up.