Full Spyder Edge Millie?

[VashHash]

I think I'd honestly rather have a steel that's extremely easy to sharpen than one that has high wear resistance. Most people shy away from SE because they're more challenging to sharpen so a steel that's easy to sharpen and get very sharp but is also tough so the teeth don't chip and the edge never needs significant repair would be more beneficial than extreme edge retention. Personally I tend to touch up SE far more often than PE so edge retention is a moot point for SE, I'm much more interesting in keeping them at peak sharpness where performance is best and snagging is least..

I find SE S35VN about as difficult to sharpen as H1 in SE. I just use a ceramic sharpener and it's not difficult at all. Even after some nasty use against fiberglass it was still pretty easy to sharpen. Definitely seems to roll instead of chip.

[Scottie3000]

I'm not sure what would be an upgrade to S30V in a full serrated edge. I have a ZDP-189 SE Endura that has seemed to hold up well but that saber grind kicks it out of the pocket for me. The FFG and larger scallops of the Golden made Spydies is what I need!

[JD Spydo]

I'm not sure what would be an upgrade to S30V in a full serrated edge. I have a ZDP-189 SE Endura that has seemed to hold up well but that saber grind kicks it out of the pocket for me. The FFG and larger scallops of the Golden made Spydies is what I need!

I'm telling all of you from actual "raw experience" that the old 440V was an awesome blade steel for Spyderedges. Of all the hard work I did with my 440V SE Native and 440V SE Military that i never even once experienced any chipping at all like I have with S30V. Now I've not yet owned a Spyderedged S35V blade but I wouldn't mind checking one out sometime. But with my experience I would take 440V any day of the week. Albeit it is a bit of monster to sharpen but you don't have to sharpen it that often.

You make a really good point about Full Flat Grind blades making excellent performing Spyderedges. My old C-54 Calypso in SE was a mega-beast in Spyderedge. I've had similar good results with ATS-55 Spyderedges as well.

[Evil D]

I think I'd honestly rather have a steel that's extremely easy to sharpen than one that has high wear resistance. Most people shy away from SE because they're more challenging to sharpen so a steel that's easy to sharpen and get very sharp but is also tough so the teeth don't chip and the edge never needs significant repair would be more beneficial than extreme edge retention. Personally I tend to touch up SE far more often than PE so edge retention is a moot point for SE, I'm much more interesting in keeping them at peak sharpness where performance is best and snagging is least..

Hey ol' Buddy this is one of the rare occasions where we probably disagree :confused: You say you would like to see a full Spyderedged Military model with a blade steel that's relatively easy to sharpen. I kind of see why you lean in that direction but the one factor that made me a huge fan of both the 440V SE Military and 440V SE Native models. It is because I literally tried to destroy my 440V, SE Native and just couldn't do it>> and I had resigned myself into believing that my 440V, SE Native was going to be sacrificed just to get a brutal job done that I needed done. But the result was that 440V became one of my top favorite blade steels for Spyderedges. And believe me Brother it's truly a monster to sharpen too :eek:

But I wouldn't trade my 440V Native for hardly anything at this point because of it having a blade steel that can endure. Ol' Buddy normally I "High Five" just about everything you post but this time I've just got to stick to high performance steels for what I use them for >> irrespective of how difficult they might be to sharpen. My old dad used to say "Nothing Worth While Comes Easy" and for me I apply that to blade steels as well

What's your experience with H1/SE? That's my go to measurement for any SE steel. It isn't difficult to sharpen and is tough as anything out there. My problem with 440V or even ZDP and serrations is, I won't let them go long past losing peak sharpness without touching them up because 1) they just start snagging and frustrating me and I end up doing more ripping and sawing than cutting, and 2) the more dull they get the more a PITA they are to sharpen so it's way better for me to keep them at peak sharpness as often as possible.

With PE it's far easier to repair an edge and bevel when chips or major dulling happens than with SE so it makes sense to me that a steel that's easier to sharpen and tough enough to resist damage is a better combo. I guess I'm on the other end of the spectrum opposite of people praise SE for edge retention and the ability to continue cutting or ripping when dull. I've seen what a screaming sharp SE can do so that's all I want lol. In the end my easier to sharpen steel will still have that low sharpness sawing ability just like your 440V will, we just have different sharpening jobs waiting for us at the end of the day.



In other news, I've been wondering lately about a sort of "serrated regrind". I was thinking about how my S110V Military is so easy to sharpen after having it reground thinner. The other day I took it all the way back to blunt dull by cutting straight into a fine grit stone to remove old edge and get a nice clean new apex, and I was able to easily get it back sharp with just the brown rods. I expected to need diamond rods, but the edge is so thin that it didn't take much to apex it again. I wonder if this is possible with serrations. I'm not even sure how it could be achieved, maybe the entire back side of the blade could be reground to a lower angle (assuming it's FFG) and that would lower the total edge of the serrations. I also wonder if it would just make the teeth points too fragile.