Para 3 with s30v or s110v

[blur]

Hi!

Can you help me with steel recommendation.

I get CPM-S30V for a same price as SPM-S110V. I am not experienced with sharpening but i wonder what do you recommend. Thx!

[ZrowsN1s]

Gonna have to strongly recommend the S110V. It does some take some practice to sharpen. But once you get it right, it will be your favorite knife :D

[farnorthdan]

I'd go with the S110V also, trick is don't let it get dull, touch up on the SM often, re-profiling can be some work.

[abbazaba]

S110v and a Sharpmaker. Like Dan said... never let it get dull.

[sanman28]

Both....naturally.

[blur]

What do you think about this knife? Compare to Para 3.

Benchmade Mini-Griptilian 555-1 CPM-20CV

Thanks!

[Surfingringo]

What do you think about this knife? Compare to Para 3.

Benchmade Mini-Griptilian 555-1 CPM-20CV

Thanks!

I much prefer the ergonomics of the para 3 and the blade of the para has much better cutting geometry. The mini grip is a nice knife...it has a more robust tip (which I personally don't like because it is not as good at puncturing) and the axis lock is nice and smooth and strong, but so is the compression lock. I have both and for me, the para 3 is a nicer knife in almost every way.

[krikun98]

...re-profiling can be some work.

Reprofiling on the Sharpmaker... This brings back memories. Not the good kind.

[farnorthdan]

...re-profiling can be some work.

Reprofiling on the Sharpmaker... This brings back memories. Not the good kind.

I hear ya, not that it couldn't be done on the SM but I much prefer my Edge Pro for any/all reprofiling.

[sanman28]

What do you think about this knife? Compare to Para 3.

Benchmade Mini-Griptilian 555-1 CPM-20CV

Thanks!

Totally different feel in the hand and in the pocket. The para 3 is much easier to hold and slices quite differently and better IMO....although it has more a pocket presence.

[krikun98]

...re-profiling can be some work.

Reprofiling on the Sharpmaker... This brings back memories. Not the good kind.

I hear ya, not that it couldn't be done on the SM but I much prefer my Edge Pro for any/all reprofiling.

Sadly, I've only got a Hapstone equivalent recently. I've reprofiled a Military (usual one, thank god), a BM 810 (that M4... suffice it to say it took a few days) and a bunch of other stuff. OP, don't let your knife go dull! Keeping it sharp is easier than bringing it back! And keeping S110V sharp is easier, because it holds an edge much longer.

[Sharp Guy]

I may be the odd man out here but, since the OP stated they're not experienced with sharpening, I'd recommend the they start with the S30V Para 3. I have a bunch of knives with S30V, and it's a good all-around steel that'll serve you very well. It may not hold an edge quite as long as S110V but it's more than sufficient for most people's needs.

Personally, I don't really get the huge attraction to S110V. I have a few knives with it and two of them see quite a bit of use (Manix 2 LW & UKPK LW). I cut a lot of cardboard at work and use a variety of knives with different steels. It seems like I'm always touching them up in the SM regardless of steel type. I'm sure the knives with S110V require touching up less often than some of the others but I'm not really seeing the drastic difference that others are seeing. I do see that it takes longer to touch up and it definitely takes longer to reprofile. So for me it's six of one half a dozen of the other. Touch up a little less often but more effort when you do or touch up little more often and less effort when you do. Flip a coin!

[Canazes9]

I do really notice the difference in edge retention between S30V and S110V. When properly sharpened S110v edge lasts significantly longer and requires little effort to resharpen. Use fine or superfine diamond stone to raise a burr, rough polish w/ 600 or even 400 grit. Fast, easy, sharp, durable, corrosion resistant.

I like S110v.

David

[Sharp Guy]

I do really notice the difference in edge retention between S30V and S110V. When properly sharpened S110v edge lasts significantly longer and requires little effort to resharpen. Use fine or superfine diamond stone to raise a burr, rough polish w/ 600 or even 400 grit. Fast, easy, sharp, durable, corrosion resistant.

I like S110v.

David

I guess I should clarify my statement that I don't really notice a difference in edge retention between S110V and S30V. I like to keep my knives at a fairly high level of sharpness. When I sharpen, I work on the edge until I can easily cut phone book paper and shave arm hair. Maybe not the atom splitting edge that some folks get but sharp enough for me. When a knife will no longer cut receipt paper nicely then I consider it time for a touch up. To me it seems like my S110V knives get to that point about the same time the rest of my knives do. Maybe the S110V knives will hold a working edge much longer than the others but I never really let them get to that point. Like I said previously, there are days at work where I cut a lot of fairly thick cardboard. Regardless of what knife I'm using I've never felt like it wasn't cutting efficiently at the end of the day. Yet when I get home none of them will shave arm hair or cut receipt paper very well. So I touch them up on the SM.

I should also correct myself regarding S110V taking longer to touch up. I used my S110V UKPK at work yesterday and it wasn't cutting receipt paper very well. Tonight I gave it less than 10 strokes per side on the SM fine stones and it's back to cutting phonebook paper. That's about as easy as it gets.

[Canazes9]

The edge I am describing is a rougher toothier edge than the high polished edges I put on S30V or even ZDP189. It will slice phonebook paper and shaves hair easily. I have put a high polished edges on my S110V blades that are also very sharp. The high polished edges don't seem to last, the rougher toothier edge seems to stay sharp longer than even a high polished ZDP189 edge.

Recently, I have begun experimenting with a 12 degree (24 inclusive) primary bevel and 15 deg micro bevel on my S110V. I am not seeing any of the chipping I was seeing earlier with this steel. It seems to be holding hair shaving sharp for a very long time.

David

[Mic1]

Get the S110v and a DMT clamp on sharper. It will help you too learn to sharpen a knife and train your muscle memory. The diamond stones sharpen s110v easily. When you feel more proficient at sharpening buy a few Spyderco kitchen knives and practice free hand sharpening on them.

[blur]

Thank you all for help. Did not decided yet since i need to figure out what does it means in therms of sharpening.

But i got this recommendation from Spyderco Help Desk:

I just would recommend some of the other steels for outdoor use. Like a Truck vs a Ferrari J they will both get you to where you need but one might be better on a dirt road J Steels are very personal and I like the S30V for outdoor/every day use. If you new to sharpening S110V will be a challenge to learn on and S30V will be a bit more manageable. You really can’t go wrong with the quality of any of the steel.

[Surfingringo]

....

I guess I should clarify my statement that I don't really notice a difference in edge retention between S110V and S30V. I like to keep my knives at a fairly high level of sharpness. When I sharpen, I work on the edge until I can easily cut phone book paper and shave arm hair. Maybe not the atom splitting edge that some folks get but sharp enough for me. When a knife will no longer cut receipt paper nicely then I consider it time for a touch up. To me it seems like my S110V knives get to that point about the same time the rest of my knives do. Maybe the S110V knives will hold a working edge much longer than the others but I never really let them get to that point. Like I said previously, there are days at work where I cut a lot of fairly thick cardboard. Regardless of what knife I'm using I've never felt like it wasn't cutting efficiently at the end of the day. Yet when I get home none of them will shave arm hair or cut receipt paper very well. So I touch them up on the SM.

I should also correct myself regarding S110V taking longer to touch up. I used my S110V UKPK at work yesterday and it wasn't cutting receipt paper very well. Tonight I gave it less than 10 strokes per side on the SM fine stones and it's back to cutting phonebook paper. That's about as easy as it gets.

Yep. Same here.

*An exception would be my fillet knives. The novelty of keeping that long blade at peak sharpness wears off pretty quickly, especially when I'm using them hard everyday. What's more, a fillet knife that is "too sharp" can be difficult to skin with on a cutting board as it wants to cut through the skin. A long lasting working edge suits me well on that type of knife so s110v would make a good candidate.