Nooooo, my beloved Centofante...

[Evil D]

If you're using a Dremel I get far better results with the sanding barrels.

[jalcon]

I do have a dremel, but I was just using one of these..

[SpyderNut]

Really sorry to hear about this. It stinks when stuff like this happens--especially to a sentimental piece. I agree--the Dremel option is going to be a lot more time-effective than the sharpening puck. Just be sure to use lower RPMs (around 10k) to prevent damaging the HT. Alternatively, another method would be to get a single pane 3/16" thick piece of sheet of glass (15"x15" or similar) for around $4.00 at your local hardware. Secure the glass carefully to a flat surface using double sided tape. I've used basic shelving from Menards as a backboard, but you get the basic idea. Now, attach 220 grit sandpaper to the glass using clamps and then carefully start dragging the spine of the blade in line across the sandpaper. The glass is going to maintain a flat surface so you get a nice sharp spine. It is a rudimentary system and will take some elbow grease, but the end results are actually quite nice. Once you re-profile the spine, you may wish to take the sanding up to 400 and perhaps even 600 grit. From there, I'd then "buff" using "0" steel wool to remove any minute scratches.

On a side note, I have a grinder and would be willing to grind the spine down for you, if you are interested. It wouldn't cost you anything, besides postage. Just let me know if I can help. :)

-Michael

[Cheddarnut]

Jalcons almost there, and powertool free to boot. Regrinding like our hockey loving forefathers did.

[Doc Dan]

What you can do is simply buy some course sandpaper and glue it to a board and hand grind the point to where it is about where you want it. Then you can switch to a fine grit and polish it up and put on the final shape. It is not hard to do. I would draw a line with a marker on the knife so you know exactly what you are doing and when to stop.

[bearfacedkiller]

I have a Lansky Puck and they say that the coarse side is 120 grit. It removes metal fast. I bet it would be quite efficient. I have only ever used it on axes, machetes and mower blades though.

For a tip regrind you would still want to finish with some 400 grit sandpaper for aesthetic reasons.

[bearfacedkiller]

My current pry tool.

[Fresh Eddie Fresh]

Sorry about your knife... I have one of those as well, and really like it. Glad you are bringing it back to life, though!

[jalcon]

Just finished her up. Didn't turn out terrible with just some sandpaper and a puck sharpener...

[timlara]

Not bad at all! Great, in fact! Nice work. :)

[Bloke]

Awesome! :)

And if anyone were to say "Mines a little different" you could tell them you had yours custom made.

[archangel]

Wow, that looks like a very good job! Congrats! You two have got many years of joy together ahead of you! :) Well done!

[Bloody Fingerz]

Great job! It looks better than before imo. Now that blade is truly your own. Congratulations!

[Slumblor]

Looks awesome, good job!

[Jazz]

Looking good, bro. Nice job. Careful though; modding is addictive.

[mb1]

It lives! Nice job.

[Joris Mo]

Nice job!
Already hoping for a return of the Centofante Wharncliffe but often prefer a blade more like this with a bit of belly in the edge instead of a total straight wharncliffe.

[jmh58]

Nice save.. Your friend is back in service!! NICE!!! John