Microbevel/sharpening help

[ivtecdaily]

So I went to sharpen my Delica 4 VG-10 yesterday and I kind of ran into something I wanted to ask about because I've done some searching and can't find the exact answer I'm looking for.

The knife was previously sharpened by me at roughly 15 degrees and then microbeveled at 20 degrees. I've touched up the microbevel alot with the sharpmaker and it works great for that, but I decided it was time to sharpen back at 15 and set another microbevel. While I was sharpening (KME) at 15, I went at it forever on a pretty coarse stone and basically could never get the edge to apex (burr) and finally just microbeveled it again so I could carry it to work tonight (it is still really sharp though). So my question is, should I have changed the angle higher to get rid of the old microbevel and then lowered it back down to 15 and then a burr could form? Because just trying to hit it straight at 15 did not work at for me.

Thank you guys for any help!

[Bloke]

If you have indeed micro beveled a lot as you say, you've likely set the micro bevel as your primary bevel.

All you can really do now is either keep on doing what you're doing and maintain the 40deg bevel you've set or set a new 30deg bevel.

Personally I'd persevere with what you started to do in re sharpening. I'd set a new 30deg bevel with a nice clean and new apex but that'll take as long as it takes with the abrasives you have. Once you've done that you need to be mindful of how often you micro bevel between sharpenings.

It's a bit of a balancing act between your 30deg primary bevel and your 40deg micro bevel. Ideally your micro bevel should only be a few thousandths of an inch wide, lightly applied and barely visible to the naked eye.

Anyhow, hope I've helped. Good luck with it all and don't give up! They say Rome wasn't built in a day but I'm sure they would've built at least a little bit that first day. :)

[ivtecdaily]

If you have indeed micro beveled a lot as you say, you've likely set the micro bevel as your primary bevel.

I dont think that is the case, because in the right light you can barely see the microbevel.

Personally I'd persevere with what you started to do in re sharpening. I'd set a new 30deg bevel with a nice clean and new apex but that'll take as long as it takes with the abrasives you have. Once you've done that you need to be mindful of how often you micro bevel between sharpenings.

I was using a 140 grit diamond stone and at 15* the microbevel just wouldnt go completely away. Should it take forever to get rid of it or do I need to change the angle a little to get it away and go back to 15? Does that make any sense?

Thanks for your help, btw :)

[Bloke]

140 grit is a fairly coarse abrasive and the Delica is a small knife. I wouldn't think it would take very long at all to grind to the apex and I don't think you'd gain anything by changing angles. You still have to remove the same amount of steel.

Have you used a permanent marker like a Sharpie to colour the bevel to see where you actually are grinding?

[ejames13]

So I went to sharpen my Delica 4 VG-10 yesterday and I kind of ran into something I wanted to ask about because I've done some searching and can't find the exact answer I'm looking for.

The knife was previously sharpened by me at roughly 15 degrees and then microbeveled at 20 degrees. I've touched up the microbevel alot with the sharpmaker and it works great for that, but I decided it was time to sharpen back at 15 and set another microbevel. While I was sharpening (KME) at 15, I went at it forever on a pretty coarse stone and basically could never get the edge to apex (burr) and finally just microbeveled it again so I could carry it to work tonight (it is still really sharp though). So my question is, should I have changed the angle higher to get rid of the old microbevel and then lowered it back down to 15 and then a burr could form? Because just trying to hit it straight at 15 did not work at for me.

Thank you guys for any help!

How long is "forever"? An hour, two hours?

[Evil D]

The wider the bevel, the more steel you have to remove to reach the apex, and the closer you get to reaching it the wider that bevel gets right to the point that it's as wide as it can be just before it reaches the apex, and that area does tend to feel like forever sometimes. Just stick to the angle you're using and keep at it and it'll get there eventually. It sounds like you're freehand sharpening so if anything try to take your time and focus on maintaining the best angle, if you're getting frustrated and rushing and your angle is sloppy it'll just prolong everything.

[Canazes9]

You have to remove a significant amount of metal to get the edge to apex when going to a narrower angle. IMO, achieving an apex is a waste of time and a waste of significant blade steel when you are planning to add a micro bevel again. It sounds as if you have already achieved your desired results - a sharp knife with good cutting performance and a stable edge.

I touch up my primary bevel every time I sharpen my knives and never achieve an apex, then micro bevel for an apex. Re-touching just the micro bevel w/o touching up the primary is just delaying the inevitable and at some point will require a lot of work all at once, like what you just experienced. Additionally, keeping the primary bevel polished seems to improve cutting performace slightly.

David

[Donut]

Try the sharpie trick. I think you are expecting one thing and getting something else.

Take a sharpie, coat the whole bevel and microbevel, try your sharpening method and see where the sharpie is removed.

From there, adjust what you are doing and reapply the sharpie if you need to.

[me2]

I stopped touching up the microbevel. I had similar experience on a couple of knives, so now I reshape the edge bevel and polish the micro bevel each time. Last time I sharpened my S110V Manix, it took 25 passes per side to remove the microbevel with a Norton 220 grit water stone.

[anagarika]

It is possible your original 'roughly' 15° and the KME 15° are not the same, the KME being lower / thinner. This means you need to remove quite much of metal before making the whole KME 15° apexed.

I'd suggest keep trying.

[Max1966]

Hi all,

I have just bought a CRK Inkosi and need a sharpening tool. I used to use a Jap whetstone for my kitchen knives and replaced that with a 3-stage V-sharpener (Tungsten Carbide/course ceramic/fine ceramic) because a whetstone is just too difficult for me. I have a spine injury.

I also bought an rws-munition.de WC/ceramic sharpener, but the body prevents sharpening of the 10mm of blade closest to the tang.

Please tell me the best way to sharpen my Inkosi!

Thanks in advance,

Matthew Peterson.

[Max1966]

Victorinox Pocket Knife Ceramic Sharpener will do for now.