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[Nate]

Hard to give a concise answer as they're apparently in transition, so you may just want to look here:

//forum.spyderco.com/viewtopic.php?t=74060

+ Welcome to the forum!

[valenciamanu]

The fixing loctite needs a set time.
Not instantaneous like normal.
I'm not saying that's your case.But surely there are people who do not know.
a greeting

[Sharp Guy]

I had a problem with the pivot loosening up on two of my Sages. I cleaned and degreased both the male and female threads, added a small drop of blue (242) to the screws, adjusted the pivots to where I wanted them and let them sit over night. They haven't moved since.

[Sharp Guy]

BTW, welcome to the Spyderco Forum!

[h8speech]

If blue is not working, something else is wrong.

Although you've cleaned the screw, there is probably still loctite residue on the screw or on the inside of the pivot. Take the knife apart, soak the blade and the pivot in ACETONE (do not put any synthetic things in the acetone, it will dissolve them) for a little while then take them out and clean them with an interdental brush. Then reassemble the knife and use Blue Loctite. Then leave it overnight to cure. If you play with it rather than letting it cure overnight, you will ruin the effect.

[Squawk]

I'm only using purple locktite on my knives and its working just fine.
Welcome to the forum.

[ChrisinHove]

I use the blue that comes solid in a chapstick type container; you can easily ensure all the thread area is covered. Works well for me.

[Bloke]

If blue is not working, something else is wrong.

Although you've cleaned the screw, there is probably still loctite residue on the screw or on the inside of the pivot. Take the knife apart, soak the blade and the pivot in ACETONE (do not put any synthetic things in the acetone, it will dissolve them) for a little while then take them out and clean them with an interdental brush. Then reassemble the knife and use Blue Loctite. Then leave it overnight to cure. If you play with it rather than letting it cure overnight, you will ruin the effect.

Exactly what I would do to my own knife with one very small and fairly insignificant difference. I'd use Loctite 222 as brother Squawk suggests.

For what it's worth nail polish works exceptionally well on small screws also. :)

[Johnnie1801]

Spyderco very kindly sent me some new clip screws a couple of years ago and they included a small tube of Loctite 243, so I'm guessing it's pretty safe to assume that that is what they were using before they moved to the red variety.

[bearfacedkiller]

Loctite only cures in the absence of oxygen. I think on some fasteners this is a problem. Also, all the threads on both pieces need to be free of oils.

I had a brass chicago screw on a handmade belt that kept coming undone. I assumed the threads were not tight enough to create the air tight environment for loctite to cure. I put a drop of super glue on the threads and it hasn't come apart yet.

I have been using the same chapstick like tube of blue loctite for years without issue. I cannot think of anything in my life outside of automotive drivetrain applications that requires red and even then blue is adequate in my experience.

[ejames13]

I used to have this problem all the time. I bought a little bottle of the Loctite primer to put on before applying the thread locker and haven't had the problem since.

[RLDubbya]

Blue LocTite 242 is dissolved by oil & grease. That's why Spyderco sent the one gent blue 243, which is essentially a version of 242 that is impervious to oil and grease. This information is readily available on LocTite's site, in their technical bulletins. The semi-solid blue "chapstick" is 242, and it will dissolve as well in the presence of oil.

[ChrisinHove]

Blue LocTite 242 is dissolved by oil & grease. That's why Spyderco sent the one gent blue 243, which is essentially a version of 242 that is impervious to oil and grease. This information is readily available on LocTite's site, in their technical bulletins. The semi-solid blue "chapstick" is 242, and it will dissolve as well in the presence of oil.

You had me worried, so I checked.

For 243 and the chapstick 248 Loctite say
"It is proven to be tolerant of minor contamination due to industrial oils, e.g. engine oils, corrosion prevention oils and cutting fluids."

But don't mention such tolerance for 242.

There was me thinking just red & blue: Live & learn.

[RLDubbya]

Blue LocTite 242 is dissolved by oil & grease. That's why Spyderco sent the one gent blue 243, which is essentially a version of 242 that is impervious to oil and grease. This information is readily available on LocTite's site, in their technical bulletins. The semi-solid blue "chapstick" is 242, and it will dissolve as well in the presence of oil.

You had me worried, so I checked.

For 243 and the chapstick 248 Loctite say
"It is proven to be tolerant of minor contamination due to industrial oils, e.g. engine oils, corrosion prevention oils and cutting fluids."

But don't mention such tolerance for 242.

There was me thinking just red & blue: Live & learn.

Can you provide a link for the info about the 248? When I checked, the only thing I was able to find was that it was equivalent to 242, and oil/grease would dissolve it. I verified this to the best of my ability (not like I have a lab, or even a white lab coat) using 248 on a pivot. Put in place, oiled the pivot. Took another knife, did the same thing except used 243. ~32 hours later, checked, and the 248 was gone; the 243 was intact and fine.

Please understand, I am not doubting you, I am not "calling you out". I simply wish to learn if I was, in fact, mistaken, and try to understand where that misunderstand could have arisen. I have a tube of 248 that I would love to use, the liquid is just too messy for me.

Thank you. If you prefer to keep this out of public, that's fine with me, email me: strongmanbob@gmail.com . Thanks!

[bearfacedkiller]

My blue stick has no number on it. Is it 242? The new packages say 248. I have had my stick for years and it has no number.

I use mineral oil as a lube exclusively and have never had issues with my loctite dissolving.

I am not disagreeing with anyone. I would just love to know the facts on this.

[RLDubbya]

I would guess it's 242.

My blue stick has LocTite in big letters, then in black to the right "Item 37643". Looking thru spec sheets, it is 242. In fact, I have been unable to find a spec sheet for stick 243. I have also been unable to find stick 243 on any site for sale.

The 12 year old stick of blue I have that is used up like an old lady is also item 37643.

I would think that any oil will dissolve the oil-vulnerable formulations, using enema oil won't save you.

The only other thing I can say is either call LocTite and report back if you would, or start cruising their sites like me, and see what you can find. I'm glad you're starting to look, no matter what.

I hesitated to post anything b/c of certain people giving me grief and letting me know how stupid I am. I don't need that, you know? If those certain people - and it's not you - don't think I have anything worthwhile to say, OK. Put me on ignore.

[bearfacedkiller]

That is the same item number on mine, 37643.

It looks as though the new sticks that say 248 are item number 37684 so they could be different. I don't know.

I have tried to look many things up on their website but haven't had much luck.

I am sorry someone called you stupid, I must have missed that. This doesn't seem like a topic we need to be arguing about? :) Please don't hesitate to share knowledge.

[ChrisinHove]

Blue LocTite 242 is dissolved by oil & grease. That's why Spyderco sent the one gent blue 243, which is essentially a version of 242 that is impervious to oil and grease. This information is readily available on LocTite's site, in their technical bulletins. The semi-solid blue "chapstick" is 242, and it will dissolve as well in the presence of oil.

You had me worried, so I checked.

For 243 and the chapstick 248 Loctite say
"It is proven to be tolerant of minor contamination due to industrial oils, e.g. engine oils, corrosion prevention oils and cutting fluids."

But don't mention such tolerance for 242.

There was me thinking just red & blue: Live & learn.

Can you provide a link for the info about the 248? When I checked, the only thing I was able to find was that it was equivalent to 242, and oil/grease would dissolve it. I verified this to the best of my ability (not like I have a lab, or even a white lab coat) using 248 on a pivot. Put in place, oiled the pivot. Took another knife, did the same thing except used 243. ~32 hours later, checked, and the 248 was gone; the 243 was intact and fine.

Please understand, I am not doubting you, I am not "calling you out". I simply wish to learn if I was, in fact, mistaken, and try to understand where that misunderstand could have arisen. I have a tube of 248 that I would love to use, the liquid is just too messy for me.

Thank you. If you prefer to keep this out of public, that's fine with me, email me: strongmanbob@gmail.com . Thanks!

No worries!

http://www.henkel-adhesives.co.uk/2838_ ... 7710090241

Is it possible that the UK/European formulations are different? Otherwise I guess it's down to their definition of "minor contamination"

PS I hope my post above didn't come across as at all confrontational. If it did, I'm sorry: I've just used the 248 fitting a clutch fluid speedbleeder on my motorcycle (The original, seized fitting was red loctited, which was a PITA). I'm all booked learned on such things, so respect practical experience.

[RLDubbya]

You did not come across in any way as confrontational; I hope I did not. I'm on your side: all about learning. I realized long ago that I've been wrong about so much in my life, and the world continued to turn, that it just does not matter. If I just forget about the ego, and focus on learning, life is good. So I did just that, with results that I no longer take mistakes personally.

Anyhow, going through the North American site, looks like it lines up with the UK, and here is a link to the 37643 stick, which is actually what I have. I didn't find it before because it is classified as automotive aftermarket only; I wasn't looking there. Of this semi-solid stick, LocTite writes that it has the strength and bond properties as 242 liquid. That means, to me, that I can look at the 242 TDS and all those things apply to this stick, including the fact it is not oil resistant.

http://www.na.henkel-adhesives.com/prod ... b=document


LocTite 248 is a stick (I want a stick or 20 of this). There is no liquid 248; however, the TDS makes it fairly clear that there is an equivalent liquid product; they don't specifically name it, but they talk about it and how 248 is equivalent in all ways except for physical state (liquid v. solid). I did not compare all specs like break-away torque, etc., but there was a chart of petroleum-based substances and how 248 fared in controlled exposure to them.

http://www.na.henkel-adhesives.com/indu ... 7710090241


So pretty clearly, 248 is the product I want - I've tried using the liquid 243 on various fittings since Saturday, and all I do is make a mess.

I hope all this helps everybody. Good stuff as far as I'm concerned - has definitely cleared up a question I've had a few times now: jeez, am I losing my mind because I would have sworn I appled LocTite to this pivot screw, but there is nothing there, and the pivot screw is going to fall out.

[Bill1170]

I learned something new, namely that Loctite sells formulations with different degrees of tolerance for surface contamination. Thank you for that. 242 blue has worked well for me on my knives and all sorts of other fasteners. I typically clean oil off the threads with naphtha, followed by acetone to get all traces of oil gone.