Nice shiny Bevels??

[ZrowsN1s]

Here is a interesting video. I am not advocating an edge this coarse but his results are impressive.

He tries to shave on his left arm and realizes he has no hair left on it so he goes to his right. Yup! Been there... :o

https://youtu.be/j032eLxxhzc

Good video! I would love to see what that edge looks like under a microscope.

[h8speech]

Even the guy who runs Science Of Sharp says that polish is unrelated to sharpness or keenness. And he specialises in razors, so that's a substantial point against the position that polished edges are best for shaving or hair whittling.

[ZrowsN1s]

Even the guy who runs Science Of Sharp says that polish is unrelated to sharpness or keenness. And he specialises in razors, so that's a substantial point against the position that polished edges are best for shaving or hair whittling.

...." I demonstrate here that only two hones are required, one coarse hone for expeditiously setting the bevel and one fine hone for polishing away the apex damage created by the coarse hone. The second hone does not need to be any finer than 4k grit. It is also important to understand that scratches in the bevel are of no consequence when the bevel is micro-convex as the scratches do not reach the apex. "

Actually he is saying that polished Bevels are unnecessary, polished Edges in his book need to be at least 4k. I consider 4k polished.

[h8speech]

...he is saying that polished Bevels are unnecessary, polished Edges in his book need to be at least 4k. I consider 4k polished.

Since the thread title is "Nice shiny Bevels??" I figured we were talking about bevels.

[awa54]

Enter Maxamet N5. Pull out the 140s. Start working a new thinner edge. Everything is going fine until I stop to look at that edge. Even to the naked eye it was a disaster. Huge chips and divots. Magnification showed the true extent of the damage. Very, very tough to work out progressing through the grits. Finely got it sorted on some ceramics but I'm never doing that again on that steel. It was a lot of work to undo all that damage.

I had a similar experience with an S30V blade. The edge just continually crumbled, even with light pressure. Thought about sending it back but persisted. After removing quite a bit of metal with a couple dozen sharpenings, it now seems normal, and takes a very good edge off an eze-lap coarse, 250 grit plate.
Never had this happen with any other blade.

hand forged high carbon Japanese woodworking tools and kitchen knives are expected to have somewhat brittle edges as delivered and it's suggested that they won't show their best qualities until they have had that outermost layer of steel sharpened away.

High tech modern stainless usually doesn't have that sort of issue...

[arnold ziffle]

they look great and they're fun. good enough reason for me. years ago i used to do that on an opinel with a strop and simichrome. a couple of light passes on the edge with a ceramic rod for a little bite and done. didn't take very long at all. s110v, no way.

[chuck_roxas45]

hand forged high carbon Japanese woodworking tools and kitchen knives are expected to have somewhat brittle edges as delivered and it's suggested that they won't show their best qualities until they have had that outermost layer of steel sharpened away.

High tech modern stainless usually doesn't have that sort of issue...

I"ve had several steels do that. What i did was to not go to the apex with the coarse stones and went to a finer grit to get to the apex.

[ZrowsN1s]

...he is saying that polished Bevels are unnecessary, polished Edges in his book need to be at least 4k. I consider 4k polished.

Since the thread title is "Nice shiny Bevels??" I figured we were talking about bevels.

Even the guy who runs Science Of Sharp says that polish is unrelated to sharpness or keenness. And he specialises in razors, so that's a substantial point against the position that polished edges are best for shaving or hair whittling.

You said edges :D

[h8speech]

Haha, true