in black FRN it's definitely evil looking, Decepticon side. Mine are all yellow like Bumblebee, clear sign of Autobot loyalty.


That's why I bought mine. It makes a decent weeding knife for those thorny weeds. Mine is H1 so it dulls quickly in the "mostly sand" soil down here.ThePeacent wrote:I wonder how many of us use the Hawkbills as our dedicated gardening folders...dsvirsky wrote:ANY color and I will buy (at least) one in SE. Last time, I picked one up in PE and, while it's my go to "yard work" knife, SE works so much better for those sorts of tasks.![]()
Which may indeed make a case for any new Sprint Run Spyderhawks to have LC200N blade steel>> if nothing else just to see how it would stack up against H-1 in hard use scenarios and extremely harsh and corrosive environments>>> because at this time H-1 is king in the "anti-corrosive" sector but I would still like to see how these two nitrogen based blade steels would work in a hawkbill blade.VashHash wrote:Mine is actually in disguise. It's yellow that's been rit dyed and the blade was mirror polished but H1 scratches way too easily. I didn't like having a glaring yellow knife in my pocket.
JD i could care less about the color because i can make them all black. I'm looking forward to getting a LC200N mule. I just want the H1 SE spyderhawk because H1 is king of SE edge retention. I just want my H1 fix right now. I wouldn't mind a LC200N run in the future though just because it would mean more spyderhawks. As far as corrosion resistance I'm sure LC200N works as good as H1. I'm more curious about its properties serrated.JD Spydo wrote:Which may indeed make a case for any new Sprint Run Spyderhawks to have LC200N blade steel>> if nothing else just to see how it would stack up against H-1 in hard use scenarios and extremely harsh and corrosive environments>>> because at this time H-1 is king in the "anti-corrosive" sector but I would still like to see how these two nitrogen based blade steels would work in a hawkbill blade.VashHash wrote:Mine is actually in disguise. It's yellow that's been rit dyed and the blade was mirror polished but H1 scratches way too easily. I didn't like having a glaring yellow knife in my pocket.
Truthfully I could care less in a lot of ways what color a handle is on a hard use folder but I guess I have to admit that a nuclear yellow, nuclear orange or even the nuclear green like they used on that one Sprint Run Catcherman are much easier to find if you misplace them. But all in all I guess that's one area where FRN seems to shine>> because they really do well with nuclear colored handles.
me too! Fact is, I wanted the Jumpmaster 2 to be released in SE LC200N to compare it to my Jumpmaster 1 in SE H1.VashHash wrote:JD i could care less about the color because i can make them all black. I'm looking forward to getting a LC200N mule. I just want the H1 SE spyderhawk because H1 is king of SE edge retention. I just want my H1 fix right now. I wouldn't mind a LC200N run in the future though just because it would mean more spyderhawks. As far as corrosion resistance I'm sure LC200N works as good as H1. I'm more curious about its properties serrated.JD Spydo wrote:Which may indeed make a case for any new Sprint Run Spyderhawks to have LC200N blade steel>> if nothing else just to see how it would stack up against H-1 in hard use scenarios and extremely harsh and corrosive environments>>> because at this time H-1 is king in the "anti-corrosive" sector but I would still like to see how these two nitrogen based blade steels would work in a hawkbill blade.VashHash wrote:Mine is actually in disguise. It's yellow that's been rit dyed and the blade was mirror polished but H1 scratches way too easily. I didn't like having a glaring yellow knife in my pocket.
Truthfully I could care less in a lot of ways what color a handle is on a hard use folder but I guess I have to admit that a nuclear yellow, nuclear orange or even the nuclear green like they used on that one Sprint Run Catcherman are much easier to find if you misplace them. But all in all I guess that's one area where FRN seems to shine>> because they really do well with nuclear colored handles.
Cool! I've been wanting to do a similar dye job on 1 or 2 of my yellow Salts but noticed that the rit dyes are harder to find nowadays.ThePeacent wrote:and my contribution for today, just because I don't want this thread and this idea to die
I was on my phone when I typed all that. I didn't see you were from Amsterdam. Good luck with getting some. Do any online retailers stock it? I know it's pretty cheap so shipping would probably cost more than the product but it last awhile if you don't scrape the surface of the FRN. I redye every so many years when I see the yellow wearing through.Joris Mo wrote:Wally World I don't know but since I'm living in Amsterdam, Netherlands we might have different stores.
I've seen the liquid stuff around but since I grew up on loads of the powdery stuff being for sale that's what I was looking for and that is apparantly hardly being used/sold around here anymore.
I'll find something somewhere soon enough, maybe just try the liquid stuff.
Thanks! Yes I can get it online but even buying online in NL I would end up paying at least as much for shipping as for the dye itself and there's still a couple of stores around I haven't tried like some specialized fabric/sewing stores on the market nearby so I'm sure I'll be fine.VashHash wrote:I was on my phone when I typed all that. I didn't see you were from Amsterdam. Good luck with getting some. Do any online retailers stock it? I know it's pretty cheap so shipping would probably cost more than the product but it last awhile if you don't scrape the surface of the FRN. I redye every so many years when I see the yellow wearing through.Joris Mo wrote:Wally World I don't know but since I'm living in Amsterdam, Netherlands we might have different stores.
I've seen the liquid stuff around but since I grew up on loads of the powdery stuff being for sale that's what I was looking for and that is apparantly hardly being used/sold around here anymore.
I'll find something somewhere soon enough, maybe just try the liquid stuff.
You know that is a novel idea "Ryno" but speaking strictly for my own self and my own personal uses of the Spyderhawk I personally would have virtually no use at all for a carbon steel Spyderhawk. I do some really roughhouse work with mine and the H-1 really serves me well>> albeit I am very anxious to see how the Spyderhawk would do with LC200N in SE & PE both.Ryno wrote:I wonder if there would be many takers in a carbon steel spyderhawk. Maybe something plain like 1095.
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