Re: 2017 - Lightweight/FRN Chaparral
Posted: Tue Dec 12, 2017 2:54 pm
Sentry Solutions is a good product against rust, and it's liquid so it gets in the pivot area as well.......Just a little does it.
Yes actually, my frn Chap came on Monday and I had some difficulty when I flipped the clip as well. However, in my case after a couple of tries making sure everything was fully seated and screw threads lined up, etc, I CAREFULLY applied more torque than I normally would and really tighened her down and it seems fine. It's held fast and I haven't had any problems so far.cheeseheaded wrote:Has anyone else run into this issue with their FRN Chapy or another knife?
I will see how it goes and maybe try that, but I also wonder if a wider top to the retaining screw might help. The current one has minimal overlap with both of the wires, and I think the tork on the clip allows the wires to work loose even though the screw seems to be tight.Nate wrote:although LocTite might be something to consider on yours if it keeps loosening up.
Mine was very heavy initially, but it broke in fine and feels just like my older CF Chap now. I sped up the break in period by working the lock bar a bunch over the first day or two. Using the body of a plastic pen or a sharpie to push down the bar saved some wear on my thumb. :)BelgiumRofls wrote:How much do these lockbars break in? I'm accustom to fondling a GB1, and this thing is eating my thumb alive.
If the pressure needed to disengage the locks of my Dfly, Caly, and Native are a 3/10, 4/10 and 5/10 respectively, this Chap is a 10/10.
I don't have one yet, but is the *lockbar* pivot on this screwed or pinned? If it's a screw, I'd wager you could adjust it out...?BelgiumRofls wrote:How much do these lockbars break in? I'm accustom to fondling a GB1, and this thing is eating my thumb alive.
If the pressure needed to disengage the locks of my Dfly, Caly, and Native are a 3/10, 4/10 and 5/10 respectively, this Chap is a 10/10.
Slumblors vid here shows pretty clearly screw construction... I would be inclined to try adjusting the lockbar pivot, prior to sending off... If that's within your skill set, of course.Slumblor wrote:https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_cont ... fR8diDZC3c
I just moved the spring forward a tiny bit and it made a noticeable difference. I can understand why some would be leary of of doing this but the knife still locks up tight so I'm not worried about it. By accident, I did the same thing to my CF Chap almost 2 years ago. No issues with that one either. It's an easy thing to try and simple to put the spring back to the original location if you don't like the results.Nate wrote:In a post somewhere, Sharp Guy talked about adjusting the spring position inside the knife as another way to reduce the lock bar tension, but that's a potentially risky move and I didn't try it since mine broke in without issue.BelgiumRofls wrote:How much do these lockbars break in? I'm accustom to fondling a GB1, and this thing is eating my thumb alive.
If the pressure needed to disengage the locks of my Dfly, Caly, and Native are a 3/10, 4/10 and 5/10 respectively, this Chap is a 10/10.
The internal stop pins are in different locations. The blade on the FRN knife actually has a second hole and it's been suggested that it could be so the stop pin could be installed there for use in the other Chap models. So it's possible the blade from the FRN model could be used in your S30V Chap but, as far as I know, the blade in the older model will not work in the FRN knife.dj moonbat wrote:I've got an original Chaparral, with the CPMS30V blade. That blade has gotten mangled by ill-informed sharpening, and a stonewashing experiment.
I'm thinking of getting one of these lightweights and swapping the blades, to make one luxury frankenknife (CF/XHP) and one beater (FRN/S30V). But first, I'd have to verify: do all Chaparrals have the same blade?
Bummer. Thanks for the info, though.Sharp Guy wrote:The internal stop pins are in different locations. The blade on the FRN knife actually has a second hole and it's been suggested that it could be so the stop pin could be installed there for use in the other Chap models. So it's possible the blade from the FRN model could be used in your S30V Chap but, as far as I know, the blade in the older model will not work in the FRN knife.dj moonbat wrote:I've got an original Chaparral, with the CPMS30V blade. That blade has gotten mangled by ill-informed sharpening, and a stonewashing experiment.
I'm thinking of getting one of these lightweights and swapping the blades, to make one luxury frankenknife (CF/XHP) and one beater (FRN/S30V). But first, I'd have to verify: do all Chaparrals have the same blade?
Awesome news! Did adjusting the lock pivot help?BelgiumRofls wrote:I neglected to give any update. Maybe it will be of interest to future readers.
Got home to my torx bits and nano oil, and gave the knife a cleaning. After some combination of more opening and closing, cleaning, lubing, and tweaking screws, my knife has gone from an extreme case to very satisfactory. :D
Also, what a beast of a knife. Poor k390 Urban is gathering dust. :p We're really spoiled with LBKs with these two, Dflys, Lil Native, upcoming Rhino, etc.
I believe so. Also had some wearing in where the lockbar travels across (only) one liner also. I assume the lock easing up was due to both the wear-in and over-tightened screws. Bank vault lock-up.mattman wrote:Awesome news! Did adjusting the lock pivot help?