10" sharpening grinder - Tormek vs Mastercraft vs other solution

[Laethageal]

Hello all.

I have left the forum for a while since work has gotten most of my time for the last 2 years.

I also never have been the best sharpener and giving my edge a mirror finish is something I like but don't have the time anymore. I sometime even skip giving my edge a basic sharpening since my previous stone is worn out and couldn't decide myself to buy another cheap one, knowing I would hate myself for not finally getting a real setup.

I'm looking to get myself a long term setup (as in something that won't need to be changed, unlike those diamond pad I used for a while) and has some good ease of use. Since my time is sparse and I know I'm lazy yet finicky with the edge I give my knives, I was thinking or going for some 10" grinder water cooled with a leather strop wheel like the Tormek T-8. Guess it could give reliable result, each time I need it, very quickly. At least, quick enough that I don't need to plan a sharpening session somewhere during the weekend, which most of the time get ruled out for others things that need to be done.

But then, I saw that the 4k japanese stone cost 430$ (cad) so if I wanted a full setup it would get me over 1300$+tx for a 220 grit wheel, 4k japanese one and leather strop with diamond compound.

I also saw some similar but non professional water grinder at CT going for 299$ instead of 850$ for the T-8. Guess that adding some better wheel would get me under 850$ for the whole setup. Saving some money could be a good thing, but not if I'll be getting something that doesn't get the job done as well, so was wondering if anyone ever tested those:

https://www.canadiantire.ca/content/can ... 56758.html

If someone did, did you find enough reason to pay for the t-8 instead or was it good enough to give great polished edge at will ? Any other option I should look at before taking the plunge ?

I'm not enclined to go for hand sharpening atm, even if I enjoyed it earlier, I clearly don't have the time for it and know I will simply skip doing it... again. I also plan to reshape the tip of my K2 and wouldn't do this by hand. If I ever have more leisure time, I'll get another set of stone to complete the setup I will have bought.

Thanks for your help all :)

On another note, I was also curious to know if there have been any new nice design I should look at. I haven't looked at new knives since I bought the K2 and adding something to the collection might be great :)

[kwakster]

Maybe this thread on Bladeforums could interest you as well: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showt ... ant-to-you

I have a Tormek T7 fitted with an SB-250 Blackstone (black silicon carbide) as well as several Paper & Rubber Wheels coated with various diamond products.

[arty]

I like to use Ceramic stones (Spyderco) or diamond stones, or a combination of the two when sharpening some stainless steels. I sometimes follow with a strop loaded with 1200 grit silicon carbide paste. If sharpening high carbon steels, it is a different ball game.
When I need to quickly restore an edge or set a bevel, I use a belt sander (1X30"). I also have a 2X42" belt sander, but rarely use it for sharpening.
I haven't used the Tormek, but it is very popular with wood turners. I like the ease and convenience of a belt sander when I have to use one, e.g. I chipped the edge of a Parangatang when clearing weeds and saplings last weekend. You can put fine sharpening belts on a sander, and there is an option for leather belts loaded with very fine abrasives. A decent quality sander will allow you to quickly put a good edge on a blade, yet won't break the bank. Diamond stones now come at very high grit values, and you can really do all that is needed with an inexpensive belt sander and stones.

[JD Spydo]

I've owned a TORMEK for several years now and I really like it for sharpening axes and other edged tools. The people here in the USA that sell it used to be located about 10 city blocks from my house before they moved to South Missouri. I believe their website is www.sharptoolsusa.com if my memory serves me well. They are great people to do business with and they will give you all the support you need to get started.

[Laethageal]

Thanks JD and arty.

Think I'll be going with the tormek to avoid trouble I could get with the lesser brand.

As for belt sander, I wouldn't ever put of of my knives on them to avoid overheating, even less use that to regrind of of them.

I might also try to get a good kit of diamond stone soon. Any in particular that are decent quality for the money either sold as a set or that have a good choice of grit to choose from ?

[arty]

I have been happy with DMT stones in 600 grit (fine) and 1200 grit. I also have one of their extra hard stones, and these will even sharpen ceramics. The regular ones work fine, but I like to follow the 1200 grit with a fine Spyderco ceramic or strop.
You can get DMTs in very high grit values, but I don't see that for knives. I prefer other sorts of stones for finer sharpening of tool blades.
I have never had a problem using the belt sander (1X30") for sharpening knives or machetes, but I like to take my time. Even so, it is very quick. Delta makes decent products, and they are much less expensive than the sanders that the pros like to use for knife making. If you have the cash, I would guess that you can't go wrong with a Tormek, but I have never used one for a knife blade.

[paladin]

I've had good luck with Harbor Fright's 1 x 30 belt sander...belts for it are very cheap and add versatility with all the different grits available

One of my favorite acessories is what arty mentioned-- the leather belt. Loaded with white compound it is very quick way to revitalize a apex that's lost it's bite. Use a light touch.

The belt sander does convex your edges a bit, even when using the platen, YMMV.

[JD Spydo]

I have been happy with DMT stones in 600 grit (fine) and 1200 grit. I also have one of their extra hard stones, and these will even sharpen ceramics. The regular ones work fine, but I like to follow the 1200 grit with a fine Spyderco ceramic or strop.
You can get DMTs in very high grit values, but I don't see that for knives. I prefer other sorts of stones for finer sharpening of tool blades.
I have never had a problem using the belt sander (1X30") for sharpening knives or machetes, but I like to take my time. Even so, it is very quick. Delta makes decent products, and they are much less expensive than the sanders that the pros like to use for knife making. If you have the cash, I would guess that you can't go wrong with a Tormek, but I have never used one for a knife blade.

Arty once you learn the tricks of the trade for the TORMEK you will find that it's a great tool for sharpening just about any edged tool. I got mine from the advice that a woodworking friend of mine gave me and he took me to a woodworking trade show here in KC and seeing it demonstrated was very impressive.

The other aspect that really sold me was that I got the advantage of getting to know the owners of the North American distributor and they were very kind to me and sold me a lot of extra stones that they used to demo with which really helped me a lot. They also are very nice to help you over the phone with any questions or problems you might encounter. And the very few problems I had were very minor and easily remedied by talking to them over the phone.

I know that there are other wet-grinders out there on the market but seriously I don't see how they can beat the TORMEK in my humble opinion. I'm hoping that at some point there will be a wider assortment aftermarket stones available for it. The strop feature on the TORMEK works like magic on wood chisels and plane blades. If there is a better tool of that type out there I would sure like to see it>> but I haven't seen one yet that is better.