Slight rust on M4 spine...

[DrtyHarry]

Some slight rust is starting to build up on the spine of my M4 PM2.

What can I use to white it off.....and what can I apply on it to protect it in the future? A thin coat of Vaseline?

I usually only use stainless blades and never had this problem before. If it gets bad, going to switch out the blade with a S110V blade because I have a nice set of Flytanium scales on it. I have 2 M4 blades so I did the swap on my vomit green jade M4. Thx...



Harry

[bearfacedkiller]

Sandpaper...

Vaseline will work...

I like the green...

[Brock O Lee]

I use a thin coating of food-safe silicone spray on all my carbon blades. Works like a charm.

[DrtyHarry]

Sandpaper....really?? That won't scratch the finish at all?

[Evil D]

Sandpaper....really?? That won't scratch the finish at all?

Well, yes, it's sandpaper. But, if you're talking about the SPINE of the blade, which is already brushed/sanded anyway, and you're careful to only sand in the direction of the finish that's already there, all you'll be doing is removing the rust and adding to the brushed finish. You wouldn't want to try this on the side of the blade.

[DrtyHarry]

Gotcha....thx!

[bearfacedkiller]

If it is just on the spine then no worries. Lay a piece of 400 grit sandpaper on a very flat surface, open your knife and hold it upside down and sand the spine. That will match the finish currently on it very well and I doubt that you will be able to tell the difference. I would not do it all the time but this is also a good technique for bringing your pointy tip back if you ever round it off too much. With the Para2 having a straight spine this technique is very easy. You shouldn't need to press down very hard and it shouldn't take more than a minute. Easy peasy... If you do start using that technique to restore the tips of your knives just keep in mind that you can make the edges of the spine quite sharp and can even raise a sharp bur along the spine. If that does happen, which it shouldn't just removing a little rust, then just knock the bur down with a stone. I use the brown sharpmaker rod.

I have used that very technique but starting with some 100 grit and then progressing through 220 and then 400 to make the tips on my Delicas pointy like the Military and Para2 come. You would never know it wasn't the factory finish.

Tuff glide, frog lube and many other commercial products will protect that blade. I just wipe them down with mineral oil if I am worried about it. There are really many way to protect a blade from corrosion and everybody seems to have their preferences.

[DrtyHarry]

Interesting! Thx again!

[bearfacedkiller]

Sandpaper....really?? That won't scratch the finish at all?

Well, yes, it's sandpaper. But, if you're talking about the SPINE of the blade, which is already brushed/sanded anyway, and you're careful to only sand in the direction of the finish that's already there, all you'll be doing is removing the rust and adding to the brushed finish. You wouldn't want to try this on the side of the blade.

Yup! I have actually taped paper to a piece of glass and refinished the flats on a flat ground knife that way. However, I don't often recommend that as that is not really entry level compared to the sanding of the spine.

[bearfacedkiller]

Harry, I would try some flitz or something first. How bad is it? It could wipe off easily with something else. Heck, even toothpaste is mildly abrasive and may take it off if you put a little on a paper towel. It has to be the pastey toothpaste and not the gel.

[Evil D]

Sandpaper....really?? That won't scratch the finish at all?

Well, yes, it's sandpaper. But, if you're talking about the SPINE of the blade, which is already brushed/sanded anyway, and you're careful to only sand in the direction of the finish that's already there, all you'll be doing is removing the rust and adding to the brushed finish. You wouldn't want to try this on the side of the blade.

Yup! I have actually taped paper to a piece of glass and refinished the flats on a flat ground knife that way. However, I don't often recommend that as that is not really entry level compared to the sanding of the spine.

Well yeah you can, I'm basically trying to protect the OP from "ruining his knife". I too have redone the grind finish on many knives, you just can't expect them to look like a factory Spyderco finish afterwards unless you know what you're doing and even then you'll probably loose your bug.

[DrtyHarry]

It's not bad at all....barely noticeable. It's not even rust in color, it's light black but you can feel it. I was hoping I could just use some kind of compound to whipe it off. It's very minimal, but want to address it before it progresses...

[bearfacedkiller]

If it is just a light black or grey patina then it should polish off easily with compound. I was picturing brown spots.

[bearfacedkiller]

Sandpaper....really?? That won't scratch the finish at all?

Well, yes, it's sandpaper. But, if you're talking about the SPINE of the blade, which is already brushed/sanded anyway, and you're careful to only sand in the direction of the finish that's already there, all you'll be doing is removing the rust and adding to the brushed finish. You wouldn't want to try this on the side of the blade.

Yup! I have actually taped paper to a piece of glass and refinished the flats on a flat ground knife that way. However, I don't often recommend that as that is not really entry level compared to the sanding of the spine.

Well yeah you can, I'm basically trying to protect the OP from "ruining his knife". I too have redone the grind finish on many knives, you just can't expect them to look like a factory Spyderco finish afterwards unless you know what you're doing and even then you'll probably loose your bug.

I agree 100%... :)

[bearfacedkiller]

Sorry if I made this all way more complicated than it needed to be. :o

[DrtyHarry]

All good! Learned something new....


Harry

[Sharp Guy]

I'd start with Flitz or a similar metal polish. 0000 steel wool and some light oil usually does the trick too. If it's a little heavier the stuff in the link below does a great job!

http://www.big45metalcleaner.com/

[ImageX]

.....and what can I apply on it to protect it in the future? A thin coat of Vaseline?

Eezox is by far the best preventative on the market. It's "dry" after treatment and protects at a molecular level. It has performed flawlessly for me for a long time. You'll never see rust on your blades again. http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showt ... ight=eezox

[DrtyHarry]

Great info!! Thanks guys!

[Bugs]

Have been using Eezox on my Seecamp pistols for years. Stuff works great for corrosion resistance.