sharpening equipment?

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dtsoll
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sharpening equipment?

Postby dtsoll » Fri Jan 10, 2003 1:00 am

Hey,

I think the time has come for me to learn the art of sharpening. I have tried in the past but given up out of frustration. In your estimation what equipment do I need and what kind of cash am I gonna have to invest? In the past, I have purchased small stones in a feeble effort to sharpen my own knives. I can't say I've had any success. I am green with envy when I hear your stories of sharpening your knives scarry sharp. What do I need, where do I get it, and how much is it gonna set me back. thanks for the forum!!

dtsoll ps- my current plan is to get enough knives to send one at a time back to the factory for sharpening and not really miss it while it's gone. no joke!!



"Cunning, Baffling, Powerful" Big Book pgs. 58-59



Edited by - dtsoll on 1/10/2003 11:54:00 PM

john
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Postby john » Sat Jan 11, 2003 1:06 am

I like to use the razor edge guides along with DMT hones.
This type of sharpening system is only going to work on plain edge knife and that is all I have so it works great for me.
I have heard many great things about the Spyderco sharpmaker and I hope to try one out myself someday.

Here is the web address for the razor edge guides.
http://www.razoredgesystems.com/



Pahl
Spydie.com

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J Smith
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Postby J Smith » Sat Jan 11, 2003 6:05 am

204 sharpmaker.The best going and the easiest.Just don't let them get to dull between sharpenings and it will be fast and easy.Just got one from ebay for my dad for 42.00 shipped.

I learn something new everyday,even though I don't want to. Jeff

yog
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Postby yog » Sat Jan 11, 2003 6:13 am

Hi Dtsoll.
For getting almost sharp knives very sharp, or for keeping your sharp knives in good working order, you really can't beat the Sharpmaker, it is clean, easy and very effective.
I would start off with the basic 204 model, then as you feal more confident and wish to step up to a greater level of sharpness invest then in the ultra-fine additional ceramics that you can get for the sharpmaker.

The only thing that the Sharpmaker isn't quite as good at is re-profiling really hard steels like CPM44v or BG-42. For this you can invest in the diamond sharpening sticks for your sharpmaker, or alternatively for that price you might consider the Edge-Pro Apex as an alternative for your re-profiling work.

What ever you go for I would also recommend a smooth steal and/or a strop. Either of these will prolong the edge's life considerably before it needs resharpening. This saves you a lot of time and prolongs the life of the knife.

Walk softly, carry a big stick.

Edited by - yog on 1/11/2003 5:14:59 AM

john
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Postby john » Sat Jan 11, 2003 8:29 am

If you can get a copy of the razor edge book to read it would be worth your time.


Pahl
Spydie.com

glockman99
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Postby glockman99 » Sat Jan 11, 2003 11:11 am

I also suggest investing in a Sharpmaker 204 and watching the video that comes with it. As long as you can hold your knife straight while "carving" the hones, you'll do well, and have razor-sharp knives.

If your knives are REALLY dull or have really messed-up edges, I find that some time with the Lansky (clamp system), THEN onto the Sharpmaker will work wonders.

Dann Fassnacht Aberdeen, WA glockman99@hotmail.com ICQ: 53675663

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ken
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Postby ken » Sat Jan 11, 2003 1:22 pm

dtsoll-

Try this web site
Steve@SharpeningMadeEasy.com
Java turned us on to this and it is real good! You can either order his book or read it online. It covers everything from different steel to different sharpners.
The spydie sharpner is real good and easy to use but tere are limits to it. I think I will get a lanskey next.

Anyway it's worth checking out.

good luck-don't cut yourself
ken

Sword and Shield
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Postby Sword and Shield » Sat Jan 11, 2003 8:14 pm

Equipment wise, there are two ways you can go. For someone just learning the art of making steel cut, I'd recommend the 204, and a thorough watching of the appendant video and much practice on junk knives.

However, there is a slight problem. If you are sloppy with edge maintenance, the 204 loses efffectiveness. It's more a "SharpKeeper" than a "Sharpmaker", as it doesn't work too well at grinding in a new bevel. That's where the second part comes in, a good semi-coarse stone. DMT makes an excellent foldable 320-grit stone, and it'll set you back around $20.

The perfect match is the 204 with the DMT, a mix that will cost you about $65. Toss in a cheap hardware store knife to practice on for another $10, and you're all set.

There's an excellent FAQ on sharpening that I picked up online and would gladly mail you if you want it. Drop me a line.

Never underestimate the impossible.

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vampyrewolf
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Postby vampyrewolf » Sat Jan 11, 2003 9:21 pm

If you feel confident in your ability to hold an angle, freestyle is best... benchstones rock!

I barely use my 204 to begin with, only for serrated edges, and we know how long <img src="spyder.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0>s take to get dull...

I play with my full set of stones, and am looking at a diamond grit next(only $60).
200/300, 500/800, and spyderco 303MF + case & stropping compound... have a good strop too, but I'm waiting for good compound.

Think I have already spent close to 80 on stones and oil, and the 204 and replaceed 303MF on top of that.

I use all my stones dry, and oil the blade after to ensure any grit is cleaned out.

I have my knives shaving sharp, and back a few off, and strop a couple. Not that hard to do... been doing it 13yrs though.

My Word, My Honour, is my Life.


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